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 Galley Removal 1999 Sea Ray 330 UPDATE 3 of X

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
KiDa Posted - Mar 03 2012 : 18:51:55
I've been in R.I. for a week celebrating Mom's 88th birthday and doing some maintenance on her home so no progress on the project. That starts this week.

The galley shelves are completely removed and in the garage. All the cuts are pretty straight forward except for a couple of radius curves to the right of the microwave. I’m thinking a table saw and a saber saw for those. A drill and counter sink for the screws. Some glue, some patience and advice from my Dad in heaven! That man could build a cabinet!

The size of the unit is definitely going to have to be reduced by about 1/4“ in height and depth and possibly length. Sea Ray built the boat from the keel up and then buttoned the cap. After splitting the unit in two, I tried to re-insert it to make sure I did not have to split in 1/3rds, plus I wanted to be sure of the length after cutting the unit in 1/2. I’m glad I did. The aft portion of the unit was not going back in. In addition to screws, In order to secure the shelving in place, I discovered gobs of resin were poured in behind the finished product. I figure it will be easier to cut it a bit shy than to grind down and clean up resin dust. Additionally, the height was a bit too tall after removal. The unit was fitted under a plywood bulkhead protecting 12/120 volt wires. I can only assume dampness over the years or compression on assembly made the fit so tight. In any event, it ain’t going back in the same size it came out! That’s why God invented shims!

I don’t know why Sea Ray used a combination of 3/4 and 1/2 inch plywood for the construction. The 3/4 inch is on the verticals though they appear to bear no load and the 1/2 in is on the horizontals. I’ll probably use the same construction although that may drive the cost of lumber up depending on what I can get out of each sheet.

I’m going to place the original cabinet on the new wood trace (or spray paint) a stencil of the horizontals. The verticals are all straight cuts except for the one radius curve connecting the top and bottom shelves. That’s going to be a bear. At first I thought it was wood steamed and bent. It’s not. Then I thought it was MDF sheets glued and shaped. It’s not. There is some type of wood grain to it, but I’ve yet to get a splinter from it. It’s soft like balsa wood but I cannot determine what it is. I think I’m going to cut away the rot and form the rest from Bondo and sand it smooth.

Some questions for the sage wisdom.
--Is there a necessity to use 3/4 inch ply on the verticals. I’m not going to shortcut the job over a 40 dollar sheet of plywood. It just seemed odd to me that two different dimensions would be used.

--Should I be concerned with the weight factor?

--Is Bondo the proper filler to use?

--Am I completely missing something?

TIA!
12   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
JeffN Posted - Apr 28 2012 : 21:34:01
Congrats on her 88th btw David. Mine just had her 85th.
KiDa Posted - Apr 23 2012 : 06:50:21
quote:
Originally posted by dl2525

Any updates?



Slow going. Dealing w/ some family issues. Add to that I'm making templates out of rotted wood. A lot of it is a wing and a prayer. Hope to make some signifigant progress this week.

I have the bottom shelf cut. It was not all that bad, however in retrospect I should have done a few things differently.

--The last artisan carpenter on something this large as a retrofit was my Dad. He passed 28 years ago. Nerve racking is an understatement! Because I was kind of winging it due to the rotted wood, I should have bought a piece of $10 OSB and and used it to manufacture templates to get a rough in as opposed to working on a piece of $45 plywood.

-- The shelf is in 2 pieces. I should have cut it as one piece then cut it in half. As it is, the cuts are close because they are straight. However, they are not going to match.
dl2525 Posted - Apr 23 2012 : 03:38:16
Any updates?
dl2525 Posted - Mar 11 2012 : 22:22:16
Looking good so far!
KiDa Posted - Mar 11 2012 : 20:48:49
quote:
Originally posted by RWS

David,

What kind of lumber did SR use originally?

I am considering a similar project in replacing my factory countertop in thg egalley and building the 2 burner stove into a recessed area for more counterspace.

THANKS!

RWS



The original lumber is a mix of 3/4" and 1/2" plywood with a thin Formica "like" laminate on each side. It is not nearly as thick as a counter top laminate. My actual galley counter top is a one piece molded fiberglass drop in unit. If I ever decide to update that, I need to call Dr. GregoryS. Saint Max would be in for some major surgery. The actual quality of the wood is pretty good. It has some voids so I do not believe it is marine grade, however it is superior quality.

I would venture to guess the best course of action for you would be to remove the stove top. I would bet it's 3/4" ply with 2x2 framing. Not a hard redo.
KiDa Posted - Mar 11 2012 : 20:41:26
quote:
Originally posted by SCORPIO

What caused the water damage in the first place? I assume a leaking porthole or window frame. Looks like you have your work cut out for you (pardon the pun).



There is a porthole that opens over the microwave cabinet. There is a void between the porthole on the starboard side and the top shelf hence no top shelf damage. I looks a bit like this:

_______0________ <------starboard side of boat

------\___/----- <------Top shelf w/ cutout

The tension screws on the dogs were loose. The water dripped to the lower cabinet shelf and worked its way to openings; namely screw holes. The gasket has been cleaned and lubed. The dogs have been tightened. We have had quite a wet winter here. No water intrusion...YEA!!!

The bedding is tight. The remainder of the frame is tight.



RWS Posted - Mar 11 2012 : 20:31:00
David,

What kind of lumber did SR use originally?

I am considering a similar project in replacing my factory countertop in thg egalley and building the 2 burner stove into a recessed area for more counterspace.

THANKS!

RWS
SCORPIO Posted - Mar 11 2012 : 17:38:37
What caused the water damage in the first place? I assume a leaking porthole or window frame. Looks like you have your work cut out for you (pardon the pun).
Radioactive Posted - Mar 11 2012 : 16:20:48
"What grade plywood to use?"

The quick, dirty answer is: Any grade you want. This is "interior stuff" so nothing special required on the water front. All plywoods currently use a glue that is sufficiently waterproof that delam in equally likely over all grades. Mostly, "marine grade" has to do with the absence of "voids" within the plys, as well as the rot resistance of interior plys.

Weight IS a consideration, so for "non-decorative" surfaces, use a grade with low weight.

"I may or may not use Formica on them. I may just use glossy paint. I've never done Formica before. "

Working with surface laminates is not difficult, though when doing cabinetry, laminating a shelf before you make intricate cuts -may- be the best way. Planning is important. OTOH: I've had very nice results using a two-part epoxy paint on interior shelves. Up to you. ( Using the epoxy paint is a good plan, as it is quite resistant to damage from dropped cans of chilli etc. )
stmbtwle Posted - Mar 11 2012 : 15:40:17
I've learned to love my oscillating saw. It's slow but easy to control and you can control the depth of the cut, important when you're not sure what's underneath.
Brite Idea Posted - Mar 04 2012 : 10:01:04
I remember when you first considered the project, well it looks like your off to a good start. Planning is key while the actual work will go as fast as your abilities. I've been working on my cockpit cushion makeover and I know first hand what you mean about no consideration for rework later on. I'll say that I've worked on boats all my life and Searay does an excellent job of hiding screws and staples. I'm almost done reassembling my cabin and found that once I took the time to take it all apart without destroying everything(first impulse was to cut everything out),I was able to organize reassembly with the least amount of damage. Good Luck and keep the pictures coming.
Rob
alexander38 Posted - Mar 04 2012 : 05:53:59
wondering if you had done more work on this, looks like you have alot in front of you shipmate..

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