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 Half-Assed Winterization

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
GeorgeKohler Posted - Dec 12 2017 : 11:18:04
I didn't have time to fully winterize this year. I usually change the motor oil and filter, water seperator, and drive lube, then treat the gas with Stabil and fog the engine. Then I drain it (no anti-freeze, never have done that).

This year, I just drained the water by pulling the 5 blue plugs and poking the holes with a stiff wire, squirted some fogging oil in the carb (didn't run it), and treated the gas. I'll change filters, oil and lube in the spring.

What are the odds of having problems in the spring?
24   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Bob J Posted - Jan 03 2018 : 17:42:53
Roy, was talking to my brother who lives in Ocala; said it was 26°F. We won't mention the 99° in August.

BOB J
Roy Posted - Jan 02 2018 : 20:02:19
Best way to winterize your boat is to do what I did - move it to Florida.

Roy
smitty477 Posted - Jan 02 2018 : 12:00:29
Winterizing our larger boat typically took the better part of one day. At the end of that winterizing it was mostly fully ready for the next season with a just a few follow ups. The process is much shorter and quicker for the jet skis and RIBS we have owned which are much simpler but it appeared above that many folks here were speaking about twin engines cruisers.
GeorgeKohler Posted - Jan 02 2018 : 10:53:00
Bob J: That wasn't my procedure. That was Smitty's.
Bob J Posted - Dec 29 2017 : 18:33:04
GeorgeKohler; Didn't read each & every line of ur procedure but was impressed with what I did read. Had twin inboard engines on last 2 boats; '86, 34' & '93, 37' Silvertons & never had any issues with either vessel. Maybe because I'm a wacko perfectionist. Never let anyone touch my boats but me. Do it right or don't do it at all!
BOB J
GeorgeKohler Posted - Dec 29 2017 : 12:57:36
quote:
Originally posted by smitty477

1995 4788 Bayliner Winterize
(Dry Storage)



A/C-Raw Water
1 Ensure seacock closed.
2 Remove cover from sea-strainer under sole of main cabin floor
3 Set A/C breakers to “ON”
4 Use forward A/C control to turn on Raw water A/C pump while pouring:
a. Saltaway into sea-strainer
b. Pour 1 to 1 ½ gallons of domestic antifreeze into the sea-strainer
5 Ensure antifreeze has come out of all three raw-water A/C outlets
6 Remove and save pump drain plugs for re-commissioning

Alternate method A/C
1. Remove drain plugs from raw water pump
2. Use wetvac to pull water from each through hull opening (3)
3. While removing water from each through hull, temporarily block the other 2 with tape
4. Visit each through hull in order until no water exits, then repeat one more time

Fresh Water System
1 Run system dry
2 Drain hot water heater from drain on heater & open pressure lever
3 Bypass heater by removing and re-attaching heater “COLD” line to heater “HOT” line. Use the short attachment coupler made for this usage.
4 Heater is done, leave valves open
5 Pour 3 to 4 gallons of domestic antifreeze into fresh water tanks (2) and run all faucets beginning with farthest one until you see color.

Alternate method (preferred) : disconnect water tanks at tank side, disconnect water pressure pump at pump outlet, use wetvac attached in place of water pump to pull water out, beginning with farthest faucet, in order ‘hot’ and ‘cold’:

a. Forward Wash Down
b. Master shower
c. Master sink
d. Washer
e. Guest shower
f. Guest sink

g. Rear shower
h. Rear wash down
i. Bar sink
j. Ice maker (2 places)
k. Galley sink



Repeat the entire sequence in order expecting no additional water out.

6 With system filled with domestic antifreeze, or vacuumed clear, open lines at both sides of pump and remove caps at hot and cold ‘ends’ in mid bilge.
7 Leave all faucets and caps open until ready for use, disconnect water at ice maker inlet and washer
8 Disconnect lines from the (2) freshwater tanks and leave open if not done so already
9 Move wetvac to inlet pipe side of water pump and alternately remove all water from each water tank line by selecting the valves one at a time - repeat each line once again.

Shower and Sink Drains with pumps
1 Pour ½ gallon of domestic antifreeze into drain while operating pump in mid bath
2 Open , clean filter, and vacuum dry shower sump pump

Heads (2)
1 Follow owners manual for Bayliner or do as follows
2 Add 1 gallon of domestic antifreeze to each head when bowl is dry and pump to holding tank until “dry”
3 Operate head pump-out switch until holding tank is empty

Main Engines (2)
1 Remove and replace primary fuel filter (every other season for 1,000 miles)
2 Remove and replace secondary fuel filter (or per vacuum gauge)
3 Drain water separator (likely nothing)
4 Add fuel additive to fuel tank (stabilizer)
5 Prime fuel system
6 Change oil while warm
7 Remove and replace oil filters (2 per engine, lube & bypass)
8 Add clean oil (13.5 qts each)
9 Remove and replace transmission fluid every 2nd season (5.5 qts Dexron III)
10 Chemically clean transmission filters (throttle body cleaner)
11 Drain antifreeze every second season – save to use later – 2 petcocks per engine
12 Add new antifreeze and distilled water 50/50
13 Start engine – if not warm, wait until gauge begins to show improvement
14 When warm, close seacock and remove hose
*Alternate method (preferred) for steps 14-16 listed after step 27
15 Use raw water hose to flush with fresh water first, then flush with Saltaway while running engine
16 Use raw water hose and “used” antifreeze to add to engine while running until shut down. 5 gallons of antifreeze mix is more than sufficient to flush system
17 Remove air cleaner – plug with oily rag
18 Clean air cleaner for next season and store
19 Close fuel petcocks
20 Tape fuel tank vents closed with oil-soaked rags if outside
21 Grease fuel tank fill caps with waterproof grease (superlube)
22 Pull raw water impellers
23 Check raw water drain tubes for blockages at cutlass bearing by removing hose
24 Plug exhaust with oily rags
25 Drain exhaust mufflers
26 Relax fan belts
27 The mains are now ready for next seasons use by just clearing the vent line, air cleaner inlet and exhaust ports. Remember to open fuel petcocks, replace impeller, tighten fan belt and replace drain plugs
*Alternate to steps 14-17 without removing raw water hoses
a. Close seacock and vacuum strainer dry
b. Remove impeller
c. Remove hose from trans cooler to manicooler
d. With vacuum pulling at raw water pump pour 1 gallon of antifreeze into hose at trans cooler outlet, should see coolant at vacuum shortly
e. Vacuum seacock hose to strainer with strainer lid off but seacock closed.


Generator is the same as above except:
1 Only 1 oil filter
2 (2) 2nd fuel filters (not needed each year, every 2nd season)
3 Different capacities – see handbook (5 qts oil)
4 There is a pencil zinc in the heat exchanger

Strainers – Main (2), Generator (1), A/C (1), S/W Washdown (1)
1 Open strainer and vacuum out water
2 Clean as necessary
3 Partial fill with domestic antifreeze
4 Grease seacock
5 Leave open until before launch

Hydraulic steering
1. Lower pressure in reservoir to 5 psi or less for winter
2. Back to 20-25 psi for use in spring

Zincs
As listed on maintenance sheet

Shaft Packing Glands
1 Done with Teflon flax and Tefgel
2 Most likely good for two seasons (check last change on maintenance sheet)
3 If adjusted, follow handbook – VERY LITTLE tightening is required

Ron & Karen
“No Worries”



GEEZE. 10 minutes after you're done all that, it'll be time to launch her in the spring.
smitty477 Posted - Dec 29 2017 : 11:37:14
1995 4788 Bayliner Winterize
(Dry Storage)



A/C-Raw Water
1 Ensure seacock closed.
2 Remove cover from sea-strainer under sole of main cabin floor
3 Set A/C breakers to “ON”
4 Use forward A/C control to turn on Raw water A/C pump while pouring:
a. Saltaway into sea-strainer
b. Pour 1 to 1 ½ gallons of domestic antifreeze into the sea-strainer
5 Ensure antifreeze has come out of all three raw-water A/C outlets
6 Remove and save pump drain plugs for re-commissioning

Alternate method A/C
1. Remove drain plugs from raw water pump
2. Use wetvac to pull water from each through hull opening (3)
3. While removing water from each through hull, temporarily block the other 2 with tape
4. Visit each through hull in order until no water exits, then repeat one more time

Fresh Water System
1 Run system dry
2 Drain hot water heater from drain on heater & open pressure lever
3 Bypass heater by removing and re-attaching heater “COLD” line to heater “HOT” line. Use the short attachment coupler made for this usage.
4 Heater is done, leave valves open
5 Pour 3 to 4 gallons of domestic antifreeze into fresh water tanks (2) and run all faucets beginning with farthest one until you see color.

Alternate method (preferred) : disconnect water tanks at tank side, disconnect water pressure pump at pump outlet, use wetvac attached in place of water pump to pull water out, beginning with farthest faucet, in order ‘hot’ and ‘cold’:

a. Forward Wash Down
b. Master shower
c. Master sink
d. Washer
e. Guest shower
f. Guest sink

g. Rear shower
h. Rear wash down
i. Bar sink
j. Ice maker (2 places)
k. Galley sink



Repeat the entire sequence in order expecting no additional water out.

6 With system filled with domestic antifreeze, or vacuumed clear, open lines at both sides of pump and remove caps at hot and cold ‘ends’ in mid bilge.
7 Leave all faucets and caps open until ready for use, disconnect water at ice maker inlet and washer
8 Disconnect lines from the (2) freshwater tanks and leave open if not done so already
9 Move wetvac to inlet pipe side of water pump and alternately remove all water from each water tank line by selecting the valves one at a time - repeat each line once again.

Shower and Sink Drains with pumps
1 Pour ½ gallon of domestic antifreeze into drain while operating pump in mid bath
2 Open , clean filter, and vacuum dry shower sump pump

Heads (2)
1 Follow owners manual for Bayliner or do as follows
2 Add 1 gallon of domestic antifreeze to each head when bowl is dry and pump to holding tank until “dry”
3 Operate head pump-out switch until holding tank is empty

Main Engines (2)
1 Remove and replace primary fuel filter (every other season for 1,000 miles)
2 Remove and replace secondary fuel filter (or per vacuum gauge)
3 Drain water separator (likely nothing)
4 Add fuel additive to fuel tank (stabilizer)
5 Prime fuel system
6 Change oil while warm
7 Remove and replace oil filters (2 per engine, lube & bypass)
8 Add clean oil (13.5 qts each)
9 Remove and replace transmission fluid every 2nd season (5.5 qts Dexron III)
10 Chemically clean transmission filters (throttle body cleaner)
11 Drain antifreeze every second season – save to use later – 2 petcocks per engine
12 Add new antifreeze and distilled water 50/50
13 Start engine – if not warm, wait until gauge begins to show improvement
14 When warm, close seacock and remove hose
*Alternate method (preferred) for steps 14-16 listed after step 27
15 Use raw water hose to flush with fresh water first, then flush with Saltaway while running engine
16 Use raw water hose and “used” antifreeze to add to engine while running until shut down. 5 gallons of antifreeze mix is more than sufficient to flush system
17 Remove air cleaner – plug with oily rag
18 Clean air cleaner for next season and store
19 Close fuel petcocks
20 Tape fuel tank vents closed with oil-soaked rags if outside
21 Grease fuel tank fill caps with waterproof grease (superlube)
22 Pull raw water impellers
23 Check raw water drain tubes for blockages at cutlass bearing by removing hose
24 Plug exhaust with oily rags
25 Drain exhaust mufflers
26 Relax fan belts
27 The mains are now ready for next seasons use by just clearing the vent line, air cleaner inlet and exhaust ports. Remember to open fuel petcocks, replace impeller, tighten fan belt and replace drain plugs
*Alternate to steps 14-17 without removing raw water hoses
a. Close seacock and vacuum strainer dry
b. Remove impeller
c. Remove hose from trans cooler to manicooler
d. With vacuum pulling at raw water pump pour 1 gallon of antifreeze into hose at trans cooler outlet, should see coolant at vacuum shortly
e. Vacuum seacock hose to strainer with strainer lid off but seacock closed.


Generator is the same as above except:
1 Only 1 oil filter
2 (2) 2nd fuel filters (not needed each year, every 2nd season)
3 Different capacities – see handbook (5 qts oil)
4 There is a pencil zinc in the heat exchanger

Strainers – Main (2), Generator (1), A/C (1), S/W Washdown (1)
1 Open strainer and vacuum out water
2 Clean as necessary
3 Partial fill with domestic antifreeze
4 Grease seacock
5 Leave open until before launch

Hydraulic steering
1. Lower pressure in reservoir to 5 psi or less for winter
2. Back to 20-25 psi for use in spring

Zincs
As listed on maintenance sheet

Shaft Packing Glands
1 Done with Teflon flax and Tefgel
2 Most likely good for two seasons (check last change on maintenance sheet)
3 If adjusted, follow handbook – VERY LITTLE tightening is required

Ron & Karen
“No Worries”


Stephen Posted - Dec 28 2017 : 20:42:37
Theft prevention. Same reason for removing the fishing equipment.
Gregory S Posted - Dec 28 2017 : 08:11:05
Why do you remove the batteries?
Stephen Posted - Dec 27 2017 : 20:54:52
Nice list, let's keep it going. Here's mine. Next person post their list...

-Add fuel stabilizer and run engine
-Change oil, & oil filter
-Winterize engine while fogging it (dump -100 antifreeze in first followed by -50 antifreeze)
-Turn off gas
-When blocking boat, use a level positioned on deck right in the middle of where cabin side windows meet – bubble should be centered or angled bow-down.
-Winterize sink
-Remove engine blue drain plugs
-Remove materials sensitive to freezing
-Clean toilet
-Remove batteries, top off water, and charge
-Remove spare keys and take home
-Remove tool box and take home
-Remove fishing equipment and take home (leave boat hook on boat)
-Lower and/or remove antennas
-Find reusable door and leave out for shrink wrap
-Shrink wrap boat (get four vents installed!)
-Vacuum out bilge water
-Ventilate windows, floor, and birth to reduce moisture
JoLin Posted - Dec 26 2017 : 09:33:17
I doubt you'll have a problem. FYI, I always stabil-ize the fuel before the last run of the season, so treated fuel runs through the whole system.

Changing the oil and filters at layup is a good practice but not critical in the short term. Same for filling the block with AF. Draining the water is the critical step, and you did that.



Just for the heck of it, this is my winter layup voodoo

1. Treat fuel sometime before the last run of the season.
2. Change oil and filters. I also winterize the A/C, fresh water system and head/holding tank. I do this stuff just before haulout. Less stuff to do after the boat comes out and I'm racing the cold weather.
3. After the boat is hauled I flush each engine on muffs for 20-30 minutes.
4. Change fuel-water separators. Fill each new canister halfway with Marvel Mystery Oil before I screw it on.
5. Start the engine, let it run for as long as it takes me to get from the bridge down to the ER. Pour MM down the carb throat and stall it.
6. Drain all the water from the engines and refill with AF.

The MM Oil treatment is overkill, but it makes me feel better. One quart takes care of both engines.

My .02
Phillbo Posted - Dec 17 2017 : 12:52:43
"Half-assed" originated from "half-adz." An adz is a tool with a curved, axe-type blade used for shaping wood. If you were wealthy and wanted a new fireplace, the mantle could be shaped using an adz to finish both the front and back.

However, the back of the mantle isn't visible. If you wanted to save money you could have only the front of the mantle shaped and leave the back as the rough, unfinished wood. Since there was less labor, this cheaper job was a "half-adz" job.

This "half-adz" woodworking term has evolved into today's "half-assed", and now means minimal effort was expended to accomplish the task, in this case resizing the image.
jacko Posted - Dec 14 2017 : 19:47:13
A couple of hundred to winterize is nothing compared to having to replace a couple of motors in the spring.
CurrentSea Posted - Dec 14 2017 : 12:40:46
So where does the expression "half assed" come from and what is real meaning?
If you did the job perfectly, would that be "full assed" or "no assed"?

JVM225 Posted - Dec 14 2017 : 10:04:38
quote:
Originally posted by GeorgeKohler

quote:
Originally posted by Gregory S

Not likely to have a problem unless the fogging oil laying in the carb gums it up. Why would you do that?



I guess I thought that's kinda what I do normally, I squirt fogging oil in the carb until it dies, and then keep squirting for a few more seconds to cot everything in the carb.



You do that with the engine running to get a coating of fogging oil on the cylinder walls. Squirting fogging oil in the carb of a non running engine does nothing.
GeorgeKohler Posted - Dec 14 2017 : 09:58:33
quote:
Originally posted by Gregory S

Not likely to have a problem unless the fogging oil laying in the carb gums it up. Why would you do that?



I guess I thought that's kinda what I do normally, I squirt fogging oil in the carb until it dies, and then keep squirting for a few more seconds to cot everything in the carb.
Gregory S Posted - Dec 13 2017 : 07:59:56
Not likely to have a problem unless the fogging oil laying in the carb gums it up. Why would you do that?
November Charlie Posted - Dec 12 2017 : 20:29:32
Spraying fogging oil or winter brew in the carb did very little for you. The idea of fogging is to coat the intake plenum, cylinders - basically everything from the injection point to the exhaust - with a corrosion preventative.

Ask around boatyards you’ll hear some strange recipes. My go-to that always worked great was two-stroke, Marvel’s, splash of straight 40 or 30 or whatever heavy single weight was around. Exact proportions were a “splash of this, some of this” kind of thing. Either dribbled straight into the intake or cut with high grade no ethanol gasoline and run directly into the fuel inlet on a warm engine. Run it on that until it kills it, shut her down, drain the bowls.
Stephen Posted - Dec 12 2017 : 19:34:43
My only concern would be that the angle of the boat may not have allowed all of the water to drain from the engine plugs or mufflers.
JVM225 Posted - Dec 12 2017 : 17:50:26
You drained the motor so you aren’t likely to have a problem there other than you aren’t taking advantage of the anti corrosion properties in the antifreeze.
I would pull the plugs and spray some fogging oil in the cylinders. It isn’t doing you much good in the carb.
You didn’t mention if you ran the Stabil treated gas through the carb. Hopefully you did because it will keep the gas that sits in the carb from turning to varnish.
dumy Posted - Dec 12 2017 : 13:20:12
Here in Vermont there's no such thing as overkill when winterizing :-). Always used the "Pink Stuff" after draining everything, disconnecting hoses, removing thermostat etc. A little extra time could possibly save a bunch of dollars in the spring. Good luck.
Ron
cwms Posted - Dec 12 2017 : 12:43:26
In the spring when you start the engine for the first time, have someone else start it and you stand by and watch what comes out the exhaust. It's pretty nasty looking.
Had there been anti-freeze in the engine, it would come out nice and clean.
CurrentSea Posted - Dec 12 2017 : 12:22:24
Most of what we do on our boats for winterization is over-kill.
I am sure it will be fine.
I never did the drain thing thought.
Just curious because I have seen some boats with a pump to pump water out, why can't you fit a air hose into one drain thing and leave one open and blow air thru? Would that work!


WALSHIE Posted - Dec 12 2017 : 11:30:26
I did something similar, I usually change the fluids but had no time. I plan on doing a complete tune-up in the spring, including fluids, filters, plugs, distributors, etc

As far as freezing goes, if this has worked for you...go for it. But I like to back-fill with antifreeze (pink stuff) in case I missed a crevice.

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