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 adding closed cooling

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Brite Idea Posted - Nov 13 2020 : 07:35:16
I bought a boat in August from Missouri, fresh water ten years 250 hours. The 5.0's are catalyzed so it ups the cost. I can install closed cooling for about 10K. I know it's expensive but the long term benefits outweigh the cost.
My question to you guys is it really worth it or should I just install Perko flush kits?
12   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
ddurand Posted - Nov 16 2020 : 08:50:21
I say convert if boating in salt water.
Brite Idea Posted - Nov 15 2020 : 17:42:25
The newer engine packages with the emission controls are not desirable and this will be my last I/O boat. If we go bigger like the 340 Sundancer(v-drives) or the 290 Coastal(outboards) I can say good bye to I/O's. I'll post my final decision once I finish my cost analysis.
LouC Posted - Nov 15 2020 : 12:29:43
Originally posted by CaptCrunch

10k is probably the cost of changing risers and manifolds at least twice. So Break even point would be a minimum of 10 years. I donít think itís worth it

actually if you price it out, replacing the manifolds + elbows on a cat converter engine, just once can be 4500-5000. So for twins that's close to 10 grand for one change of manifolds and elbows. I'd hope that they last longer than the non-cat systems here we usually replace at about 7 years.
Personally I'd never buy an EFI boat with cat converter exhaust. The cost factor here in salt water makes outboard parts prices seem reasonable lol.
Any inboard boats I own the rest of my boating days will have simple carbed engines and standard exhaust. That, or outboards.
LouC Posted - Nov 15 2020 : 12:26:51

I agree that closed cooling is really desirable here in Long Island salt water, it makes winterizing easier and adds resale down the road. If you have inboards or I/Os two things you really want is closed cooling and a remote oil filter mount, that makes the regular maintenance a good deal more tolerable. Every year when I winterize my boat I think of how nice it would be not to have to take out half the rear seat to get at the engine drains and standard mount oil filter. If I repower this boat with a new or reman engine for sure I will add both.
Brite Idea Posted - Nov 14 2020 : 11:09:34
Boat came from Lake of the Ozarks and is now in salt water. I'm leaning towards biting the Bullitt and doing it. I would have jumped on it and done it myself but having to change out the ECM's made me re-think that since I'd like to cover the work with a warranty! My last boat I did it and never regretted it but it was way less expensive.
Gregory S Posted - Nov 14 2020 : 08:03:56
You didn't say if you boat in fresh or salt water? My boat spent the first 10 years of it's life in fresh water and was raw water cooled. i did a full system conversion when I moved to the Chesapeake bay and don't regret it. Now, I just change the elbows every five years. I did replace the antifreeze in the block very early on as it brought a lot of river crud out of the blocks. If I had to do it again, i would but I might just run distilled water in the blocks for the first few hours.
LouC Posted - Nov 13 2020 : 14:10:24
The other thing to think of is how long would you plan to own that boat? My experience with cast iron engine/raw water cooling here in Long Island is that you can easily get 10-15 years on the engine, before you might have issues with rust through; it seems most often with intake manifold right under the thermostat housing or cyl heads behind the valve seats. Exhaust manifolds & elbows need checking & often replacing at the 5-7 year mark or sooner if leaks are noticed around the gasket between the manifold and elbows.
alk Posted - Nov 13 2020 : 10:04:45
My opinion itís not even close to worth the cost to convert. In addition to the flush kits and changing the risers & manifolds, I think itís most important to examine often for any leaks, and Iíve found I need to replace gaskets about twice as often as the iron parts. Keep the gaskets fresh, parts properly torqued, flush often, you should be able to get respectable life in saltwater.

Only motor that ever failed on me due to salt corrosion was due to leaking exhaust manifold gasket, that I was not aware of until is was too late. Itís a pain, but every other year I pull the manifolds off, replace all of the gaskets, and check for damage.
Brite Idea Posted - Nov 13 2020 : 09:22:01
Wow you guys are great! I appreciate the quick responses. Here's what I left out, the closed cooling systems are full systems so the manifolds become part of the closed cooling. Also the engines are 5.0EC which means they have the catalytic converters and manifolds are much more expensive to replace. The closed cooling systems are only available thru Mercruiser because of the catalytic converters and ECM replacement is included, no after market systems available. The pro's & cons have been bouncing around in my head since I took delivery in August. My last boat bought the same way and installed the closed cooling worked out well but was much more affordable.
Cam Posted - Nov 13 2020 : 08:53:16
Originally posted by cwms

Me...I'd just go with the flush kitsa. Also, they make it easy to winterize.


cwms Posted - Nov 13 2020 : 08:34:59
Me...I'd just go with the flush kitsa. Also, they make it easy to winterize.
CaptCrunch Posted - Nov 13 2020 : 08:20:56
10k is probably the cost of changing risers and manifolds at least twice. So Break even point would be a minimum of 10 years. I donít think itís worth it

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