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T O P I C    R E V I E W
Coolbreeze767 Posted - May 01 2007 : 14:21:18
Once upon a time you posted an indepth description and procedure on what the timming gears did in these things and how to troubleshoot operations. Is that tid bit still around. Thanks
50   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
boatbum Posted - Feb 11 2015 : 19:12:25
We installed a Nova Kool reefer in place of the Uline Combi and will never look back.

With our unit a fan used to come on with the compressor. Without that being active I would suspect a power feed issue. Could be an inline fuse?
Doc Posted - Feb 11 2015 : 14:06:45
Just went out to the boat to get ready for a weekend trip tomorrow and it will not come on. Usually starts humming when I turn it on at the machine. All the breakers are on.

I think that I remember starting to come home after the last trip and noticed the ice had started to melt in the bin.

It is only 18 months old but sounds to me like it has died.
Bimini Sands Condo Posted - Apr 21 2014 : 08:18:25
Thanks for your indepth info. I completely rebuilt my uline unit before heading over for a weekend trip to my Bimini Condo -- works like new again!
AustinPaul Posted - Jul 09 2013 : 08:05:06
Ice tray?

Hi there! I'm sure this answer is contained somewhere in this thread, but I could not locate it.

What is your best recommendation for a replacement Uline ice tray/bucket?

folieadeux Posted - Sep 20 2012 : 14:09:43

This is an old thread but hopefully you are still around and can help me with my U-line ice-maker. It is a 2005 U-line installed in my 2006 Meridian. It has worked great for the 3 years I have owned the boat.

About a month ago when I walked from the house to the boat just to do routine checks and found inside my U-line the ice cube bin was a solid block of ice. Looked like the water fill control just never stopped pumping water. I turned off the U-line and let it defrost for several days.

When I started the U-line back in operation, it will get cold and stay cold.....but no water into the trays to make ice.

I have removed the white square cover inside the U-line and "cycled" the gears numerous times in hopes that it would clear itself of problems. I can watch once the gears start turning the "fingers" will move thru the ice tray and everything appears to work properly but when the "fingers" are finished rotating, no water flows into the ice cube tray.

I have verified the incoming water pressure is good. Interior temp is good enough to store ice inside the U-line for weeks without melting.

What are your suggestions for troubleshooting. I had really thought it was the water control valve but after reading your posts on this thread I might be on the wrong path. Thanks for your help.
GSENT Posted - May 30 2012 : 21:17:39
I cannot tell you how many times I have referenced this helpful topic. Thanks again for all you contribute to the forum.
jmas Posted - Sep 15 2011 : 19:36:31
Vic, How would I go about removing the ice cube making parts from the unit(pre 1990)and using it as a freezer??.
PJ Posted - Jun 08 2010 : 17:01:53
Vic the micro switch was good. The screw that the microswitch actuator attached to had backed out. As a result the plastic tab that the screw went into was broken off. So as a check I put the screw in and put it back together and it made ice like mad. I have shut it down and will epoxy the part back on and make it a permanent fix. Wish I would have checked b4 I got the temp control
Thanks for your help.

Now to fix the vacuflush
Vic Willman Posted - Jun 08 2010 : 07:34:49
Check it. If it appears dubious, replace it. They have a little plunger on them, that sometimes will stick in the "in" position.

It's a standard microswitch that can be gotten at most electronics supply stores. Take it with you to match it up, but first draw yourself a little sketch, showing where all the wires go. Should cost less than ten dollars.

PJ Posted - Jun 07 2010 : 15:37:44
vic the compressor cycles on and off when I turn the cold control. Could it be the switch on the bar??
Vic Willman Posted - Jun 07 2010 : 15:23:27
From the time the compressor and fan shut off, until the cubes are dumped, water coming in, and the ejector mechanism parking and a new cooldown cycle starting, shouldn't take more than 10 minutes, usually less. The fingers will rotate and press on the cubes, trying to push them out. The gear wheel will rotate back and forth as it tries to push the cubes out. During this time the mold heater is on, loosening the cubes in the mold - usually takes a couple minutes until the cubes loosen, then the ejector motor takes over again, and continues pushing the cubes out. If it takes notably longer than 10 minutes to push the cubes out, you've likely god a bad mold heater. At that point, it is best to replace the complete icemaker unit inside the machine.

I suspect you may have mis-wired the new cold control. You have to go by the actual numbered contacts on the cold control, not the positioning of the contacts - because they've changed them through the years.

PJ Posted - Jun 07 2010 : 07:54:38
still not making ice. I put new cold control in, would not make ice. Checked the wiring I did it correct to what i had written down.
just turned the 1/4 turn and it made ice in about 5 min. I watched the wheel it turned and then backed off and then turned again and again until it dumped the ice.

What is the next thing to check.
the only thing that works on this boat is the owner

tmal2 Posted - May 08 2010 : 10:57:00
Originally posted by Vic Willman

As the ejector fingers are rotating to push the cubes out, a cam is turning on the other side of the metal plate. At a certain point in its rotation it contacts a microswitch that causes the water valve to open. The spring-loaded adjustment screw controls how long the water valve remains open; it's typically open for around 3-6 seconds.

Thanks for all the information and help Vic. I've adjusted the screw and everything seems to be working properly now.

Vic Willman Posted - May 05 2010 : 09:53:26
As the ejector fingers are rotating to push the cubes out, a cam is turning on the other side of the metal plate. At a certain point in its rotation it contacts a microswitch that causes the water valve to open. The spring-loaded adjustment screw controls how long the water valve remains open; it's typically open for around 3-6 seconds.

tmal2 Posted - May 04 2010 : 14:51:12
Originally posted by Vic Willman

Tim, there's a plastic tube that comes out of the bottom of the water valve, which goes out through the bottom of the machine, then up the rear of the machine, and into the rear of the ice mold unit to supply incoming water to the mold - it's the one you removed to check that the valve works. Sometimes it lays on the side or top of the compressor as it is routed through the bottom of the machine. The heat from the compressor can melt it, and seal it off. That would be my suspicion, particularly if there's no indication of a leak anywhere at the bottom of the machine. Or, sometimes the heat will melt a hole in it - and the water leaks out, never making it to the ice mold. The only way to know for sure is to look. It may be necessary to remove the machine from where it is mounted, and get it up on a workbench to fully check it out.

If the tube does indeed have a hole burnt in it, or if it is sealed off, you can get tubing unions made out of white nylon at any Home Depot or Lowe's, to do a repair to the tubing. But if the tubing is all dried out and brittle, it might be a better idea to replace it. 4 feet of 1/4" O.D. vinyl tubing should do it - can't image that it'd cost more than about $3.00.

Thanks for the input Vic. I may have gotten lucky. I was at the boat the other day and remembered that you once mentioned something about and adjusting screw for the water level going into the mold. I adjusted that screw a little and actually got the machine to make ice.
The problem I have now is it's not filling all the molds so I assume I need to adjust that screw some more. Unfortunately, I forgot which way I turned it to increase the level.

Could you please try to explain to me exactly what that screw does and how the mechanism works so I know for future reference.

Thanks again.

Vic Willman Posted - May 03 2010 : 10:15:58
Tim, there's a plastic tube that comes out of the bottom of the water valve, which goes out through the bottom of the machine, then up the rear of the machine, and into the rear of the ice mold unit to supply incoming water to the mold - it's the one you removed to check that the valve works. Sometimes it lays on the side or top of the compressor as it is routed through the bottom of the machine. The heat from the compressor can melt it, and seal it off. That would be my suspicion, particularly if there's no indication of a leak anywhere at the bottom of the machine. Or, sometimes the heat will melt a hole in it - and the water leaks out, never making it to the ice mold. The only way to know for sure is to look. It may be necessary to remove the machine from where it is mounted, and get it up on a workbench to fully check it out.

If the tube does indeed have a hole burnt in it, or if it is sealed off, you can get tubing unions made out of white nylon at any Home Depot or Lowe's, to do a repair to the tubing. But if the tubing is all dried out and brittle, it might be a better idea to replace it. 4 feet of 1/4" O.D. vinyl tubing should do it - can't image that it'd cost more than about $3.00.

tmal2 Posted - May 01 2010 : 09:17:55
Vic, I'd appreciate it if I could pick your brain for a few minutes. I've got an older (late 80s-early 90s but the ice making mechanism was replaced about 4 years ago.) Raratin ice maker that seems to do everything right except add water to the mold. I've tested the unit as you mentioned by turning the hex gear counter clockwise a 1/4 turn and everything seems to work as you said it should with the exception of water entering the tray. The entire cycle seems to take about 1-2 minutes.
I do hear the valve open but can't tell if water is coming out. I'm gonna go to the boat today and remove the line coming out of the valve to see if there is water flow.

Is it possible that there is some kind of blockage between the valve and the ice making mechanism? Where should I start looking if it is a possibility? Is there something else i should check that I'm not thinking of?

Thanks in advance for any advice you may have to offer.


*****UPDATE***** 5/2

Vic, I went to the boat yesterday and took the hose going from the water valve to the ice making mechanism off and manually started the cycle by turning the hex nut.

As soon as I turned the nut the compressor shut off and the unit started it's cycle. When it called for water, the valve did open and water came out so it seems like everything is working to that point. Does my problem sound like something as simple as a blocked hose leading to the mold? Does the mold itself have some kind of water control on it that may not be working properly or does it just free flow into the mold?

One other thing. I saw you mention that the entire cycle should take 5-7 minutes. With my unit, from the time the compressor first turned off to the time it turned back on again after the cycle was complete was about 2 minutes. Is this normal?

Thanks again

Bliss Posted - Apr 28 2010 : 09:45:28
Many thanks! I may get around to this in the next couple of months. My work and travel AND the occasional bag of ice are going to get in the way of my repair ambition. Again, thanks.
Vic Willman Posted - Apr 28 2010 : 09:41:34
Bliss, most likely the cold control, but could be other things as well. Force-turn the gear as described above. If it completes the cycle within 5-7 minutes, the cold control is bad. But if it takes a lot longer to complete the cycle - more than 20 minutes, it could be the mold heater or the limit switch as well.

Bliss Posted - Apr 28 2010 : 09:22:03
V. my 1997 330 Sundancer has the U-Line. I'm away from the boat so don't have the model #. It will slooowly make one little bunch of cubes. No more. They remain cold. I can buy a bag of ice on the way to the boat and fill the bin and they will stay cold.
If I have read the above correctly the best guess is a cold control failure and the probable fix is its replacement as described in your's of the 27th just above. Does that seem about right? Many thanks.
boatbum Posted - Apr 28 2010 : 07:51:34
Work directly with uline, and order the parts from them. They will want your model and serial number.
PJ Posted - Apr 28 2010 : 06:01:00
Vic Thanks so much. I will not get to the boat for 2 weeks so I am going to order a control. Where do I order the temp control, part number? When I was at the boat last week I turned the wheel clockwise and it went back to the original position. So I think it would be the control.
Vic Willman Posted - Apr 27 2010 : 10:59:43
PJ, it's fairly easy to check the thermostat. First, remove the cover from the front of the ice mold mechanism (white plastic, 4" square, on the very front of the icemaker unit inside the machine). There are two slots at the bottom of it. Insert a screwdriver in one of the slots and twist it. Note: you'll usually crack it when trying to get it off, no big deal. It usually just cracks in the corner, making it easier to remove next time.

When you've got the cover off, locate the SMALL gear. The newer ones are metal and have a hex molded on them, to allow you to put a small wrench on them. (the older ones were plastic, and had no hex on them) But if it is, say, a 1985 or newer unit, it will have the hex on it.

With the machine on and running, grab the hex with a wrench and force-turn it about 1/4 turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE. Remove the wrench. The compressor and fan should immediately shut off, and the gear should continue to turn. Within about 5-7 minutes' time, it should continue around, dump any ice that is in the mold, bring in new water for the next batch of cubes, then park itself and the compressor and fan will come back on and begin the cooldown cycle for the next batch of ice. If it does all of that, the thermostat is bad and needs to be replaced.

The thermostat is located on the right-hand side, behind the lower grille. You'll see a round decal with an arrow, saying "Colder." That's the thermostat (U-Line calls it the cold control). There are (2) screws holding it in place. Before trying to remove it, turn off the power to the unit, at the breaker panel (don't just shut off the switch on the front of the machine). On the rear of the thermostat are several wires. Be sure to note which wire connects to which terminal on the thermostat. The tabs are numbered on the thermostat - don't just go by the position of the tabs, mark down the actual number (red goes to #3, etc.). The replacement thermostat may not be laid out exactly the same as the original, so the position of the tabs can't necessarily be trusted.

Next, the machine will have to be removed from any cabinetry where it might be mounted, as you need to get to the back side of it. A long capillary tube goes out the back of the thermostat, through the lower portion of the machine, up the rear of it, and it goes into the rear of the ice mold unit.

Pull the capillary tube from the rear of the ice mold unit, and fish it out through the front of the machine. Remove the old thermostat unit completely.

On the new thermostat, straighten about 12" of the capillary tube, and feed it into the tube in the rear of the machine where you removed the old one. Push it in until it "bottoms" inside the tube that protrudes out from the ice mold unit. When it has bottomed, bend the capillary tube sharply and feed it down the rear of the machine and gradually unwind the rest of the coiled capillary tube and fish it through the machine from the rear to the front.

Re-connect the wires, then turn the screw adjustment all the way counter-clockwise (to the warmest possible setting). Leave it at that setting. Then let it hang by the wires and turn the machine back on. If, after 2 hours, everything seems to be working correctly, turn the machine off, mount the thermostat in its permanent location and replace the lower grille. You're done.

If it doesn't work properly, double-check the wire connections on the new thermostat, to be sure they are correct. Again, only go by the numbers on the individual terminals, they may not be in the same respective locations as they were on the original.

Note: always leave the thermostat in the warmest possible setting, unless the ice is wet and soft.

PJ Posted - Apr 27 2010 : 07:29:30
My U-line ice maker went bad on the run from Jacksonville to Charleston , from all I have read above it is the cold control. I t gets cold and will not eject the ICE. How can I test the cold control?
boatbum Posted - Nov 13 2009 : 17:58:47
Actually the draw on ours is only about 12-14 amps while running the uline, laptops and WxWorx. When the dedicated freezer kicks in it jumps up to 24 amps dc.
Today the new icemaker showed up at the marina and I installed it. Things are going *MUCH* better now. About 4 or 5 loads of ice have fallen and there are no icicles yet.
The installation went very smoothly. The only hitch was they have a different connector at the five wire splice that is compatible but will not lock in place.
Here is a shot of the mold:

We always used air and blew out the fresh water system. Antifreeze never touched this that I know of. The tab on the right side was causing cubes to crush and jam the eject during heating so I am thinking this was early failure due to excessive heat. That tab was on the inside of the mold when we got it, and it took a year for us to figure that out.
Vic Willman Posted - Nov 13 2009 : 08:35:25
Dan wrote: Is it normal for them to run continuously when making ice?

Pretty much. The refrigeration unit is only rated for around 400 BTU's, so it has to work pretty hard to remove enough heat to freeze the water in the ice mold, and do it in a timely fashion - every 45 minutes or so.

Once the ice bin has filled, and they go into "maintenance mode," the machine only runs about 25% of the time, sometimes even less, depending on the ambient temperature in the compartment where the machine is located.

The machine only draws around 2 amps while cooling, and about 2 1/2 amps during the harvest cycle when the mold heater is activated; but when the power source is an inverter, the power drain from your batteries can still be quite substantial. With inverters being comparatively inefficient, the power drain from your batteries will be somewhere around a continuous 20-25 amps, not counting any other items that may also be powered by the inverter.

boatbum Posted - Nov 12 2009 : 15:45:05
Vic from what I read these are not circuit breakers, they are merely temperature activated switches. They open at one temperature and close at another. In both of the types I have experience with due to this unit, they both reset. It's a bimetallic switch not unlike what happens in a household thermostat.
What turned into a bonus round of debug for me was that every time I pulled the cover off and started probing the dang thing reset and left me hanging.
As it stands now, without the icemaker active the unit is doing well as a secondary refrigerator and if we put bottles of water in the tub they freeze.
The thing hardly runs at all now.

Is it normal for them to run continuously when making ice?

I learned over a weekend using the inverter to drive the A.C. power on the boat that when it's making ice it sucks much more power. I'm thinking that instead of using heat there has to be a better way to eject the cubes. I don't think household units in regular refrigerators use this method.

As an aside and one more bonus the S.O. is really pissed because we missed a viable Gulf Stream crossing because I elected to order the parts.

David when they escalate to Saran Wrap move on.
Vic Willman Posted - Nov 12 2009 : 13:47:56
Thanks Dan, I didn't know that U-Line had switched over to an auto-reset circuit breaker for the limit switch. In the days when I worked on them (pre-1990) the limit switch was a one-time fuse. When it blew, the machine was completely dead until the limit switch was either bypassed or replaced.

Should the machine get "stuck" partway through the ejection cycle, the mold heater will stay on indefinitely - until everything starts rotating again. The limit switch is put there to protect against the machine catching on fire if the mold heater stays on too long. With them switching over to an auto-reset circuit breaker (which I don't think is a good idea), you simply wait until things cool back down, then it tries again - and again - and again. Until the cubes themselves melt, and the ejector can start turning again.

The ice mold itself, has some sort of epoxy lining to make it nice and smooth inside, to aid in the release of the ice cubes. This lining is attacked by winterizing the machine with non-toxic anti-freeze. The anti-freeze softens the epoxy lining and over time, destroys it. Then you get bits and pieces of it in your ice cubes the following year, along with bits and pieces of the aluminum mold material. NEVER winterize an icemaker with any sort of anti-freeze. Disconnect the water line from it, disconnect the tube from the bottom of the water valve, run the machine for two hours with no water attached to it, then store it dry for the winter.

To sum up your particular situation, I think you simply "got a lemon." U-Line icemakers, unless they've significantly cheapened them in the last 20 years, have always been quite reliable and would last for many years. Their weak link was always their cold control, which would crap out about every 5 years or so. Then the machine would get cold but wouldn't eject the cubes. Replacing the cold control would fix it, but it was a real PITA to do.

davita Posted - Nov 12 2009 : 07:08:46
I was on that same boat a couple of months back cruzin New England, Martha's Vineyard and back to Long Island.
My recollections of the trip are interspersed with a wine and margarita tasting that went wild.
I do recall getting on a public bus to Newport RI and seeing how the other half live....not a pretty sight.
This was after flying business from Vancouver to New York and an Amtrak train to Providence.
The conversation about the ice-maker working was, I recall, something to do with silicone and duct tape....noooo...silicone sealing did the trick... my friends used duct tape to shut me up!
Wot no smileys here?

boatbum Posted - Nov 12 2009 : 05:54:51
David thanks for posting. Did they replace the icemaker assembly or the mold?
davita Posted - Nov 12 2009 : 05:12:41
Reading boatbums report has inspired me to respond to my previous post:

"They have a problem with their U-lane combo CO29FB, about 5 years old, and hoping you can help. They tell me it has always been a here is their explanation of the issue..
The water enters normally but drains from the front of the ice tray. They have turned the fill adjuster to a lower setting, as you have previously advised on this topic, but it still spills and causes an ice stallegn(t)ite to form at the front of the ice maker part of the combo.
I'm thinking that they should shim the front of the machine, but the deck is already convex and appears to permit the ice-maker to lean aft."

The problem above turned out to be similar to boatbums....there was a hole in the mold! Before the water could freeze it would slowly drip out of the mold and cause a long run of frozen water.

Hope this helps others to identify a problem if its similar.

boatbum Posted - Nov 11 2009 : 10:27:33
Hi Vic, been there done that. I've learned more about this unit than I ever wanted to. It's only 3 years old and I have been on the phone with U-line support. I am hoping to receive a new icemaker assembly later this week.
As it turns out I replaced the limit switch with a new one and while it was a different part number it worked. Not only that it resets and once the tray cools down the unit will start up again. I have also changed out the solenoid valve a micro switch and the tub.
The reason for the drip this time I believe is because the unit is heating too long. That is because the mold is shot and all sorts of crap is coming out with the ice. I used a mirror to get in there and look around. It looks very bad.
When I explained to U-line that we paid as much as we did three years ago, they talked amoungst themselves and committed to shipping out a new ice maker. I am paying for expidited shipping since we are on the move.
At this point we use the machine as a frige and leave the ice maker off.
To summarize the saga of this unit, we paid 1140 for it 6/2006. It had three half year seasons on it. In that time we had to;
Fix the alignment of the trough on the mold because water was spilling down the back of the unit. This froze up and made a genuine mess of things.
Next, the seals on the door failed. They're cracked in a few spots. They still function but they are on the list.
In search of this latest failure indicated by block ice, I found the limit switch was cutting off. Once while I was probing it cooled down enough to reset and the unit started up again. Since I thought this was a one time fuse deal, I was going to call it a baulky switch. However I looked it up online with the switch mfg. and it is supposed to reset and close again. I guess this is a fail safe for over heating the tray. But eventually this switch did not reset so I went and got another one along with micro switches.
Having swapped out all of these and the valve, I was convinced something else was going on. I got out my handy mirror and looked around enough to see the ridges in the mold rotting away and that's when I blew my stack and called U-line. I am still shocked the mold failed so early in the life of the unit.
The dialog with U-line was professional and we all stayed calm. He quoted me the price of the mold and icemaker and I turned to Deb and said do you want to spend any more on this unit? She said no. I told the rep. that I could go buy a small freezer for 200 bucks. In fact we have an Avanti 3 or 4 cu. ft. on the boat this year. At fully 1/6 the cost of this unit less all the repair parts and time. We have paid in total about 1500 for this unit so far. When he heard that he went to the supervisors and some heads came together saying they would give me a new ice maker to install in the unit.
We have always been good to the hardware on the boat. We used air to blow out the system every year since 2000. So we have no idea what led to the early failure of the mold.
Perhaps it was the extra heat required when the trough was out of line and crushed ice at the rear of the mold jammed it until enough melted. The water going into the unit is pre filtered by an AquaPure AP517 filter system.

With that, it looks like I am going to learn yet more about this box and install a completely new icemaker.
Vic Willman Posted - Nov 11 2009 : 09:36:21
Any idea how old the unit is? Sometimes they reach a point where it is no longer practical to try and repair them. When the limit switch fails, it will usually stop midway through the ejection cycle, and for all intents and purposes, the machine is "dead" - it won't do anything at all. Bypassing the limit switch is one way to check it out - if it works when the limit switch is jumped out, you've got a bad limit switch. The limit switch basically, is a one-time fuse. It is located in the center of the "black box," behind the metal switch plate. In the older versions it was round, about the size of a quarter, and silver-colored, sort of resembling a thermostat. In the newer versions, it is black in color, and is sort of oblong in shape. Jumping across it is the basic way to do the test.

boatbum Posted - Nov 07 2009 : 16:49:28
Ok, it was a mildew or mold. Sorry I did not respond, we have most of it out with a cleaner. Windex or something like it as I recall.
So we had the block ice issue again and this time it turned out to be a bad water filter was dumping sediment. I replaced the filter, buttoned things up and cleaned up more parts put it back together and turned down the temperature again. All was well and we decided to take a day off boat work and go to the park.
When we came back I opted for a glass of wine which we keep in (you probably new this was coming) the Uline. It was flat dead and stuck in the eject cycle. So after pulling the unit out to probe behind the back cover (I know I should have read this thread first) I went after the limit switch.
I had the cover off the motor box set up my probes and when I turned the switch on the unit comes to life. My wife had to stop me from throwing it over the side.
I think we are going to chaulk this up to a balky limit switch and try to locate one nearby (Lake Worth Fla.). Boat Owners Wharehouse had the ice bucket (40 effin 5 effin dollars) and a spare solenoid/valve so at least we have that. Coincidentally I installed the new ice bucket today. I'm thinking the unit misses the old bucket.
It may yet meet up with it again. In a freakin' dumpster.
Vic Willman Posted - Jul 24 2009 : 14:33:54
I haven't a clue on that one... Sandpaper? Pepsodent?

My area is makin' 'em work - whut they look like "ain't" in my job derskripshun...!

The inside of the box is part of the refrigeration evaporator, which is powder-coated white refrigerator enamel; it shouldn't have stained. The plastic parts and the door gasket, I've no idea how to get the yellow off of them.

For getting rid of the mildew in the cracks and crevices, and from the door gasket, I've had real good luck with Dow Tub and Tile Cleaner in the aerosol can, with "Scrubbing Bubbles."

boatbum Posted - Jul 20 2009 : 18:33:52

The S.O. used 409 on the inside of the box and now it's all yellowed after sitting a couple of months.. Is there something we can use on it to clear out the yellowing?
Vic Willman Posted - Apr 17 2009 : 08:23:45
Dan, as the prophet said, "They don't build 'em like they used to..."

You can get a new ice bucket and door gasket from U-Line (800) 779-2547.

boatbum Posted - Apr 14 2009 : 21:37:16
Vic glad you had a chuckle over it .
Given all of the good updates herein, and the manual, I knew what the spring loaded screw did, and when looking at the plate when I had it out to remove the finger axel assembly, nothing clicked on the warrantee death screw.
There certainly are a few pitfalls with the machine aren't there? We know about the flooding deal. In the frost episode I talked to above the mechanism actually stopped the cam on the fill portion of the cycle. Water was all over the aft deck and the S.O. was complaining about not having cold soda again. I'm not sure which was worse.
We were lucky since we are on the boat all the time now and the unit is on the aft deck which drains over the side.

But I'm still in for a new tub since I've beaten it to release some frozen cubes and ice, and the door seal has already cracked and is growing mildew. The original unit that was 20+ years old had neither issue.
Vic Willman Posted - Apr 14 2009 : 16:36:16
Dan, I had to laugh about your description of the warning label that said, "Remove this screw and you die!" That screw is there to act as a stop, limiting how far you can adjust the horizontal spring-loaded screw immediately above it. The horizontal screw is the water level adjustment screw, that regulates how much water comes into the ice mold when the water valve opens. You'll see that it has a + and - stamped into the plate, indicating more water or less water to come into the ice mold. The spring-loaded screw moves a metal arm that can only go as far in the + direction as the ("you die") screw that we're discussing.

The switch that controls the incoming water valve is attached to the metal arm and is activated when the red cam behind the metal plate reaches a certain spot in its rotation. If you remove the "you die" screw, the water adjustment can be extended to where the water valve will stay open all the time and not shut off once the cam reaches that point, even though the cam will continue to rotate. This will cause the incoming water to overflow the mold and run out under the door onto the floor.

It is a conceivable possibility that if your storage tank(s) contain enough water, and the boat remains unattended long enough, the boat could eventually "go a-glub!" (Eastern Somalian, loosely translated, "Dummy's boat just sunk at the dock!"). It could, at the very least, soak your carpeting and make a helluva mess to clean up.

boatbum Posted - Apr 12 2009 : 12:09:37
Hi Vic, a very informative thread you are hosting here. Quite a bit to be learned. We have a 2 year old CO29.
Over the last two years it's been a pita. Initially the fill tube was not installed correctly and it leaked all over the place. That was fun, and it enhanced my ability to include diverse technical assertions in my dialog.
After this it was running water down the back and by cutting back on the supply of water via the adjustment things were going well.
Then the whole unit frosted up and the icemaker seized up on the ejection. I busted up all the ice with a hair dryer and freed things up. We thought we were out of the woods and then the ice started building up again. Water is filling the tub and freezing up the bottom two inches of the tub.
So using the info herein, I pulled the cover off and observed. Eventually the compressor shut down and the fingers started to move. I believe the heater is ok since the cubes freed up but did not fall. I think they were good size and joined together as usual. So I waited hoping to hear them fall.
Looking in, the cubes were smaller now. I wiggled the gears and they took off completing the cycle.
Something is jammed up but not always since there were some cubes on top of the ice in the tub. But the cycle is definitely slowed down on the eject and I am wondering if either the motor is toast or something is binding.

By the way there is this screw with a red with a red label that states "remove this screw and you die" actually it voids the warrantee. What's it do?
Can I pull the plate out and have a look for binding hdwr back there?


Pulled out the motor panel and had a peek. The fingers bind up a bit but I suspect this was due to a refreeze of the cubes that were melted when it jammed up. Letting it cycle some more to see if it hangs in the same spot.
Given the motor has some built in gear reduction is it possible they were mangled when the frost seized things up?

Update 2:

On the next cycle there were good sized cubes coming up but it seemed to hang up at the same spot. Looking at the gears they would move a tick and return back, move forward a tick and pop back. This continued. I took all the ice out of the mold and there was a small piece at the far end. One cube was broken into a couple of pieces. Once cleared out it moved along and the fingers pointed up. I can't see this being caused by the broken cube since it was on the uphill side and not sitting on the rake the fingers move through? It also came out quite easily.

Update 3:

So waiting on the next cycle, we heard the compressor shut down (actually the S.O. who likes cold soda and was a significant contributor to the emphasis on this project heard the shut down). Upon openging the door I could see the fingers had moved around and made contact with the ice which had yet to be released. The gears were exhibiting the same behavior I outlined above but at a different spot. Watching intently, the ice broke free and started to come out but then hung up at the same spot as before. Looking closely with a flashlight, I saw that the innermost cube was hung up on the alignment tang for the water trough feeding the mold. This tang had been out of whack all along. So I pulled the whole deal apart and managed to remount the trough.

What was happening was this; the ice was hanging up at a point the heater was active. So the cubes melted and when the water came on it overflowed. I'm thinking one of the cubes was being crushed all along. This then led to overfilling and extra water.
We'll see but I'm optimistic.

End of Story!

The tub was almost full this morning and all of the cubes fell out when I poured the tub into our cooler! I was also able to increase the cube size and set the cool down cycle to a warmer settting.

Vic and everyone thanks for all the informative leads. Everything fell together and all of the cubes fell apart instead of being a massive chunk.
Vic Willman Posted - Feb 02 2009 : 09:46:25
Nick, either the Holding Switch has failed, and is stuck, or the thermostat (cold control) is stuck in the ejection mode. The holding switch is a common microswitch, located behind the metal plate where the white gear wheel is. It is activated by the rotating cam back there. There is a wiring diagram sticker on the inside of the square white cover on the front of the ice mold unit, to aid you in locating the holding switch. Check to be sure the little plunger on the switch can move in and out, that it isn't stuck in the "in" positon. If it is stuck, it will have to be replaced. You can get a suitable replacement at any Radio Shack for less than $10. Wait until you get the new one before removing the old one, so you don't get the wires mixed up. When putting the metal plate back in position, note that there is a spring attached to the wire bail arm that checks the ice level in the ice bucket. The spring has a tang on it, that must go into a hole in the metal plate, before it will go back together properly. If replacing the holding switch doesn't solve the problem, it is the cold control, which is only available from U-Line or one of their service outlets. Expect to pay between $75 and $100 for one of those.

Y2K996 Posted - Jan 31 2009 : 14:48:24
The fingers were in the down position. However, when I turn the power switch on the fingers move continually and water keeps being added to the mold. The compressor makes no noise and it is not cooling at all.
Y2K996 Posted - Jan 31 2009 : 13:26:23
The fingers were in the down position. However, when I turn the power switch on the fingers move continually and water keeps being added to the mold. The compressor makes no noise and it is not cooling at all.
Vic Willman Posted - Jan 28 2009 : 15:27:27
Nick, what position were the ejector fingers in, the ones that push out the cubes? their normal position is pointing nearly straight up in the air. There are a couple of possibilities, but those possibilities hinge on what position the fingers are in.

Vic Willman Posted - Jan 28 2009 : 15:23:56
Jim, you're describing the classic symptom of a failed thermostat (cold control). That's the most common failure with the machine. A replacement costs somewhere between $75 and $100, through U-Line.
Y2K996 Posted - Jan 28 2009 : 14:39:48

My U-Line icemaker (I think it's a BI-95) was working OK until recently when my automatic water pump pressure switch broke and left the water pump running constantly. I shut off the icemaker until I could replace the water pump. After replacing the water pump, I turned the icemaker on and left the boat. As I was leaving I heard the water pump cycle for about five seconds but didn't really think about it. Next time I boarded the boat the icemaker was warm inside and the ice bin was full of water. I shut the icemaker off and went for a cocktail. Any suggestions besides more cocktails?

jhowenstine Posted - Jan 27 2009 : 14:31:16
Is there a way to test the cold control thermostat?
My Uline SP18 stays very cold on the inside but it never ejects the cubes. The motor on the cube ejector works fine, it fills with water etc. Sometimes it will make one or 2 batches of cubes in a 24 hour period
Vic Willman Posted - Jan 06 2009 : 08:48:00
Sounds good! Now, as long as your thermostat (cold control) is good, the machine should function properly for a good, long time. Good job!

bobalong Posted - Jan 05 2009 : 21:25:32
Vic, final update !!

Installed the new cube mechanism this evening and everything seems fine. I didn't hook it up to water, but as soon as I powered it up, it cycled. It ejected the non existent cubes, arm came up and checked ice bin level and I heard the water switch come on momentarily to fill the cube tray. Then the compressor and fan came on and it began to cool.

I have to thank you again for your help. Your explanations made everthing come together.
Vic Willman Posted - Jan 05 2009 : 08:54:41
Sounds like a bad limit switch (part # 109). This is basically a one-time fuse. When it "pops," the unit hangs up in mid-ejection cycle, with the fan and compressor turned off. In essence, the machine doesn't do anything at all, and for all intents and purposes, is "dead." Replacing the limit switch will most likely solve the problem. It is located in the ice mold unit, behind the metal plate with all the switches on it. It is right in the center of the "black box" when you fold the metal plate back. It kind of looks like a little thermostat, but is actually a fuse.

Unless you're comfortable working with electricity, I'd suggest you get a technician to work on it.

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