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 My boat is overheating
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Author Previous Topic: Grounded boat lifted by helicopter Topic Next Topic: 1995 19 wellcratf center console  

bobbyrbob123

RO# 27092

Posted - Jun 29 2007 :  21:10:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Help.........I am going to take my boat and sink her if you can't help me. She keeps overheating........first lets start with all the new parts I put on. Engine Waterpump/Outdrive waterpump/new manifolds/new risers/new hoses/.............switched out the engine sensor with another I had.......and it still overheated so put original back. I replaced the temp gauge and still overheated. Its and 87 wellcraft antiqua 5.7 liter magnum. The temp sensor is on top the engine.......and I have another sensor connected to the water pump. The waterpump sensor controls the annoying buzzer which goes off when it overheats....(just kidding-glad I have it) This sensor has 2 wires.......one to the dash and one to the back of my engine. It does get hot back there near this sensor but I don't see where it can be replaced. Do you know what this piece is and how to remove it? Also any other ideas as to why it is overheating? Your help would be greatly appreciated......or the boat might hit the bottom of the chesepeake bay. (never) Thanks

Homeport: md

captgoerge

RO# 27085

Posted - Jun 29 2007 :  21:13:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Does it have an engine oil cooler that may be plugged?


Homeport: Macon Ga. Go to Top of Page

bobbyrbob123

RO# 27092

Posted - Jun 29 2007 :  21:41:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I actually don't know if it does........... I have never heard of an engine oil cooler on a marine engine What does it look like?


Homeport: md Go to Top of Page

j-d

RO# 15782

Posted - Jun 29 2007 :  21:49:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Oil cooler a sausage-shaped bulge in the water line from outdrive to water thermostat housing.
Which outdrive to you have? I'm thinking Alpha since you mentioned outdrive water pump. Look portside, under the manifold, at the hose from transom housing to the front of the motor. Don't confuse that one with the portside manifold cooling hose.
Have you done a compression test? Any sign of cylinder head or head gasket failure?


God Bless, jd
1996 Sea Ray 215EC
Alpha One GEN II 5.7L/350CID/EFI/220HP
14-1/2*19 Stainless RWC

Homeport: Sunny Florida Go to Top of Page

aholst1

RO# 20936

Posted - Jun 29 2007 :  21:55:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Is it truly overheating or just a bad temp gauge?


Homeport: International Harbor Company, Friendsville, TN Go to Top of Page

bobbyrbob123

RO# 27092

Posted - Jun 29 2007 :  21:58:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You are correct ..it is an alpha. I checked the water line from the outdrive and there isn't any bulges. I checked this when I replaced all the hoses. No compression test........but boat runs great at idle and I could run all day like this........and it will run great at full throttle........but only for about 3 minutes before overheating.


Homeport: md Go to Top of Page

bobbyrbob123

RO# 27092

Posted - Jun 29 2007 :  22:07:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I replaced the temperature gauge also........its new


Homeport: md Go to Top of Page

bobbyrbob123

RO# 27092

Posted - Jun 29 2007 :  22:07:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I replaced the temperature gauge also........its new


Homeport: md Go to Top of Page

captgoerge

RO# 27085

Posted - Jun 29 2007 :  22:07:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Might pull one of the lines from engine to manifold and see how much flow you get. Kinda back track hoses and maybe somewhere the flow is resricted. You never did say if you changed the t-stat? That guy can cause trouble in Topeka!


Homeport: Macon Ga. Go to Top of Page

bobbyrbob123

RO# 27092

Posted - Jun 29 2007 :  22:13:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have pulled every hose off of every connection...........and started the engine and getting good water flow everywhere. I removed the t-stat till this problem is fixed.
Do you know what the sensor is located on the bottom of the engine portside which has the wire connected to it that runs to the water pump sensor/irating buzzer?



Homeport: md Go to Top of Page

jtybt15

RO# 3300

Posted - Jun 30 2007 :  00:22:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Year boat?
FWC or raw water cooled?

Saltwater or fresh?


Without these things answered we're only guessing.


Some engine compartments don't get enuff cool air circulation.





Charlie

There is much to be said, in a world like ours, for taking the world as you find it and fishing with a worm.-Bliss Perry, 1904



Homeport: Ca Go to Top of Page

Thudpucker

RO# 10503



Posted - Jun 30 2007 :  01:12:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
How does the engine run? IS it OK, no misses that would indicate a blown head gasket?

Get it in the water, disconnect the hose from the Outdrive pump and start the engine. You should get a very healthy water flow up from the outdrive.
I'm guessing you have Parts n' Pieces of the old water pump impellers stuck in your water flow.



Homeport: AL. Go to Top of Page

JUST-IN-TIME

RO# 21381

Posted - Jun 30 2007 :  02:30:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
run clear hoses to see if u get bubbles
if u do, u need to pull the heads



Homeport: PETALUMA, CALI Go to Top of Page

bobbyrbob123

RO# 27092

Posted - Jun 30 2007 :  06:13:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My boat is an 87 wellcraft antiqua. The boat is in the water and starts up great ........runs great with no missing at low idle and at full throttle. Only at full throttle will it overheat.
I disconnected the hose from the outdrive to check the water flow and had my buddy start her. The water shot so far and so hard.........I was soaked. It is what we call here brakish water. It is half salt water and half freshwater. Where would I need to run the clear hoses? From what connection to what connection?



Homeport: md Go to Top of Page

captgoerge

RO# 27085

Posted - Jun 30 2007 :  07:50:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Merc sez do not remove t-stat or overheating will occur. I have always felt that removing it would make it cool better. But its in big letters in the manual do not remove it will overheat. I think the design makes the hot water stay in the engine if you remove it and it just circulates. In the book it does show a power steering cooler? You might be restricting the cool water flow to the engine and its just going to the elbows, thus not giving the engine cool water. Its just reciculating in the engine.


Homeport: Macon Ga. Go to Top of Page

Cam

RO# 1558



Posted - Jun 30 2007 :  11:59:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Did you check your heat exchanger for blockage. That is a very good possibility.

" If you think nobody cares, try missing a few payments " (author unknown)

Homeport: Bentley Yacht Club- Staten Island, NY Go to Top of Page

Flutterby

RO# 14378

Posted - Jun 30 2007 :  12:17:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Check your thermostat housing. My buddy's boat had a corroded housing. By the time he found/replaced that, the motor had to be rebuilt........

Just think about the mess Obama inherit this time. And it ain't Bush's fault!!!

Homeport: California Sierras/Gold Country Go to Top of Page

jtybt15

RO# 3300

Posted - Jun 30 2007 :  14:22:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yeah, Liz is refering to stuck balls. If they don't have free movement they could be the cause of overheating.

Don't want your balls clogged.





Charlie

There is much to be said, in a world like ours, for taking the world as you find it and fishing with a worm.-Bliss Perry, 1904



Homeport: Ca Go to Top of Page

wenzOmatic

RO# 27200

Posted - Jul 04 2007 :  09:43:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm having the same problem with my Bayliner 2252. The shop says it is sucking air at WOT and want's to install trim tabs. I've had them change most of the parts you've listed and I've tried changing the prop. Still no fix. Hope someone out there has found the cure as I've run out of ideas...

Wenz-O-Matic
Oklahoma City, OK

Homeport: Eufala, OK Go to Top of Page

jtybt15

RO# 3300

Posted - Jul 04 2007 :  10:56:28  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ask your shop how trim tabs are supposed to to get water to or keep air out of the water intake. Scammers...get a new shop.




Charlie

There is much to be said, in a world like ours, for taking the world as you find it and fishing with a worm.-Bliss Perry, 1904



Homeport: Ca Go to Top of Page

glen hachey

RO# 18897

Posted - Jul 04 2007 :  21:47:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
install a volvo crank-mounted water pump and a scupper . sometimes you just need better water flow than you think u have. its worked for me when all else made sense.


Homeport: newbrunswick Go to Top of Page

Slip Away

RO# 15931

Posted - Jul 05 2007 :  11:12:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bobby

Check the intake hose behind the bell housing on your out drive, it might be kinked, you need to take the boat out of the water to do this. Turn your drive/drives to the right, you will be able to see the hose behind drive bell housing on the lift side of the drive when facing the transom.

When your boat is in the water, depending on the position of your drive and/or RPM, the hose restriction will vary, giving you different temp readings because of the rate of the flow.

If this is your problem, the hose comes in a kit with all the necessary parts to change the bellows,
O rings and gaskets which should be replaced especially if they haven't been changed in a few years, the kit goes for around $140.00 and I suggest while you are in there change your shift cable, another $40.00 give or take. You'll need a couple of special tools for this job, which are worth buying if you do your own work. If you take it to a mechanic, be prepared to pay for a 7 to 8 hour job at whatever rate they are getting in your area. If you have twin screws, I strongly suggest changing out the other side also, because it's just a matter of time.

Good luck!

Bill



Homeport: New York Go to Top of Page
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