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 Antifouling Paint for Rudders and Trim-Tabs
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Author Previous Topic: Changing Mercathode Controller Topic Next Topic: hot tank ?  

jcurran

RO# 21535

Posted - Mar 24 2008 :  14:34:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking for experienced opinions on the best way to protect the rudders, shaft, and trim tabs on my boat (Silverton 322), from marine growth. I have been told that for the props, they can be cleaned and coated with Desitin ointment, which will repel marine growth (anyone heard of this)?. Can I Interlux the stainless steel trim tabs with proper primer and or prep? What is best tools to prepare shafts, rudders, and tabs and quickest? Thanks for all your help in advance!!

Homeport: RI

pdecat

RO# 842



Posted - Mar 24 2008 :  16:35:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
yup, prep and paint


Bruce



Homeport: Gulf Coast FL Go to Top of Page

BayBum37ft

RO# 11641

Posted - Mar 26 2008 :  21:38:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I am applying anhydrous lanolin to my trim tabs
and outdrives. I bought a 1 pound jar from my
pharmacist for $19.

Greg


The best mechanical device to arouse a woman is a big boat.

Homeport: Sassafras River Md. Go to Top of Page

folieadeux

RO# 27326

Posted - Mar 27 2008 :  10:15:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I paint my underwater stainless gear with PropSpeed. Really is great stuff, it last more than one year. Most marine growth will not attach to the PropSpeed but if it does it is so easy to just wipe off. Material is a little pricey but is worth the money.

Neal and Barbara
Savannah,GA
"Olive or Twist" 2006 Meridian 391 T-Cummins 380QSB, Onan 9K

Homeport: Savannah.GA Go to Top of Page

Bob J

RO# 181

Posted - Mar 28 2008 :  10:55:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Greg, any experience with anhydrous lanolin? I've heard tell of it's use but never any feed back as to it's performance.

Bob J

Homeport: Waretown, NJ Go to Top of Page

jcurran

RO# 21535

Posted - Mar 31 2008 :  12:17:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for replies from all, and have you have previous experience with coating these parts with lanolin? Also, do you guys wire-brush your props, rudders, and shafts to get clean, then apply this lanolin or paint? Would it be better to just clean the SS parts and then apply the lanolin, as opposed to cleaning, painting, then applying lanolin?


Homeport: RI Go to Top of Page

IDZervit

RO# 15873



Posted - Mar 31 2008 :  17:57:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I tried the anhydrous lanolin last year and it worked fine, will use again this year


Homeport: Warwick RI Go to Top of Page

jcurran

RO# 21535

Posted - Apr 01 2008 :  11:32:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Idzervit, where in Warwick did you get the anhydrous lanolin? What parts did you use it on (you listed no specifics)? Did you just coat the SS trim tabs, or over paint?


Homeport: RI Go to Top of Page

jcurran

RO# 21535

Posted - Apr 07 2009 :  09:26:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
As an update to this post on coating the running gear with Lanolin, I used off the shelf Vaseline last year on all my running gear (props/shafts/rudders/tabs/struts) and decommissioning was in Oct 2008. After the powerwash, there were no barnacles nor any type of growth anywhere to be found. All I did was use a pair of rubber gloves and 2" paintbrush to coat all running gear. I will use again this season no doubt!


Homeport: RI Go to Top of Page

hawaiigrady

RO# 21420

Posted - Apr 08 2009 :  15:42:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I tested the lanolin theory last year and was very disappointed. One trim tab with lanolin (over antifouling paint) one without. The one with lanolin had far more fouling than the antifouling. I know that some will say that it works better than no antifouling at all, but the growth was very rapid and I am convinced it just doesnt work, at least in a tropical saltwater environment.

on the other hand, the lanolin is very good for lubricating wood-on-wood sliding doors.



Homeport: Kaneohe, HI Go to Top of Page

Sandy

RO# 1159

Posted - Apr 08 2009 :  17:27:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Remember to keep the area where your shaft, rudder & tab anodes will be placed bare metal and clean and nothing applied to the anodes themselves either. I wonder if lanolin/vaseline applied to propshafts might have some tendency to make it easier for shaft anodes to slide to block flow through the cutlass? That happens easily enough with the cheaper 2 bolt shaft anodes without lube on the shafts.

Sandy

Homeport: The Vineyard Go to Top of Page

Capt. Bill1

RO# 2017

Posted - Apr 08 2009 :  18:46:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My guess most of it would wash off in short order. I mean it's hard to get paint and primer to stay on underwater metal.


Homeport: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale Go to Top of Page

New2Me34C

RO# 25024

Posted - Apr 08 2009 :  18:53:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sandy,

That is an interesting subject about the shaft anodes sliding down the shaft. I wonder how a SS hose clamp would work to prevent that?

Erich


"Seas the Moment II"
2003 Silverton 35C
Buzzards Bay, MA

Homeport: MA Go to Top of Page

KiDa

RO# 16492



Posted - Apr 08 2009 :  20:32:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by New2Me34C

Sandy,

That is an interesting subject about the shaft anodes sliding down the shaft. I wonder how a SS hose clamp would work to prevent that?

Erich



Balance issue?


____________


Best Regards,

David
Saint Max
'99 330 Sundancer

==========

Capitalism is to this administration what Judaism was to the Third Reich.

-- Me

Homeport: Hopewell, VA Go to Top of Page

Sandy

RO# 1159

Posted - Apr 08 2009 :  21:32:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by New2Me34C

Sandy,

That is an interesting subject about the shaft anodes sliding down the shaft. I wonder how a SS hose clamp would work to prevent that?

Erich



I heard that suggested before and I suppose one could overcome any balance issues by using 2 opposing clamps, but then there would be the add'l issue of finding something more reliable than tape to hold the tagend of the clamp down tight. Personally I still prefer the idea of using only 4 bolt shaft anodes and going under with a mask and allen wrench at least a several times a NE season to check condition, position and retighten/replace as necessary. That's a good time to scrub the bottom of any algae anyway and use the 3M pad on the props. If I hear anything amiss that could be a rubbing or fluttering anode , I'm under, but I don't wait for that.

The expensive winter storage yard always puts the 2 bolt anodes on (grrr) and they slide if I don't check often and/or replace.

The yard requires they do all exterior work below the gunwales, but when I have the props at home , a very fine 3M Scotch-Brite disc & hook & loop pad in a 4 " angle grinder does a really quick job of cleaning up and polishing bronze & nibral props so I'd imagine it'd work pretty well on other under-hull metal gear.


Sandy

Homeport: The Vineyard Go to Top of Page
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