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 Cetol refinshing/recoating
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Author Previous Topic: 2005 Boston Whaler 110 Sport Topic Next Topic: Raymarine RC530 Plus  

Ductboy

RO# 12348

Posted - Mar 28 2009 :  21:04:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have never used cetol before, but my new (to me) boat has some teak that is finshed in orginal Cetol (not the clear version)

Anyway, I have both fore and aft flag staffs here at my home and wanted to re-coat them today. I hit them with 220 grit sandpaper and it ate right through the finish, which was not all that bad to begin with. It had a little depth.

Once I was through the finish in areas, I knew I had to keep going, so I stripped them both to bare teak. I will probably just varnish them as i dont have any Cetol on hand and they are just flag staffs.

My question is this, I have teak covering boards that have been Cetoled. Would it be more correct for me to just re-coat without sanding? Are you not supposed to at least scuff the surface when re-coating. I am concerned that i will wear through on those and I really dont want to have to strip them as they look pretty good as they are.

Dan
Be careful of the toes you step on today, they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow...Buddy Cianci

Homeport: Westerly, RI

chiropaul23

RO# 20411

Posted - Mar 28 2009 :  21:24:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Just scuff them lightly with a medium 3M pad and recoat. I used it on the railings of my last boat and then used the clear gloss over the regular cetol. Held up very well for several years with just a yearly coat of the clear gloss. Repairs are easy as well as it blends well.

Paul Schlechter
currently boatless

Homeport: Largo, FL Go to Top of Page

jimbell

RO# 31142

Posted - Mar 28 2009 :  21:26:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dan, Your flagstaffs should be wiped down with Acetone to remove the surface oil in the teak so the Cetol or varnish will adhere to the wood. If your covering boards are not damaged or scrapped anywhere wipe down with Acetone (in case some wax was applyed over time) light sand with 220 grit. Be careful on corners and edges. They will sand through much quicker than a flat surface. De-waxing is necessary BEFORE sanding otherwise the wax will sand into the surface causing peeling of the new coat(s). Apply 2 coats of Cetol or Cetol gloss, if you perfer. The top coat is sacrificial and needs this proceedure done periodically.


Homeport: on Go to Top of Page

PascalG

RO# 12212



Posted - Mar 29 2009 :  10:42:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
afaik you can't use Cetol Gloss on its own, you first need a couple of coat of Cetol light (or regular cetol although i find it too orangy).

after that, you apply 2 coats of Cetol Gloss. I usually lighlty sand the exisitng Cetol before recoating with more gloss every year or so.


Pascal
1970 Hatteras 53 MY
26' Starfish sloop
12' Westphal Catboat
16' Hobie Cat
13' Sandbarhopper

Homeport: Miami, FL Go to Top of Page

Rub Rails

RO# 6085

Posted - Mar 29 2009 :  11:48:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Back in the maintenance business, I loved Cetol and found it most durable but as Pascal says found it "too orangy" and switched to Cetol Light when I discovered it and found it did not contain less uv protection (or so they say). I used it only in matte form as I did not like the look of their gloss over it. I recoated about every 6 months with a light scuff for prep. I also found that after about 3, maybe 4 years it would darken to the point that I would take it down again and start over.


Homeport: Ft. Laudedale Go to Top of Page

ronbo1

RO# 21769

Posted - Mar 31 2009 :  08:56:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

There are 4 Cetol products: Cetol Marine('orangy'), Cetol Light(isn't really 'light' - it has white pigmentation which can obscure grain), Cetol Natural Teak(it's new, and more natural looking), and Cetol Gloss which is used only as a topcoat and is usually recoated annually.

When Gloss is used as the topcoat you won't get a buildup of Cetol which will obscure the grain after a few years. As mentioned previously, Cetol Gloss shouldn't be used alone as it will soon peel due to UV degradation.



Homeport: Go to Top of Page

Ductboy

RO# 12348

Posted - Mar 31 2009 :  11:47:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ronbo-

Thanks for the input,

Clarify something for me if you would, if the gloss product is being used as the topcoat over other cetol product, wont it degrade anyway as it has no UV protection over it?

It sounds like what I would like to do is just recoat the exisiting somewhat orangy Cetol, which is in good condition, with a caot or two of the gloss, but I would like it to hold up for a season (about what I had been getting from straight Epifanes over teak on a prior boat). if its not going to hold up due to kot having UV inhibitors, I will go with the Natural.

Dan


Be careful of the toes you step on today, they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow...Buddy Cianci

Homeport: Westerly, RI Go to Top of Page

Capt. Bill1

RO# 2017

Posted - Mar 31 2009 :  13:45:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Cetol should hold up for a full season in RI no problem.


Homeport: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale Go to Top of Page

ronbo1

RO# 21769

Posted - Apr 01 2009 :  09:42:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Dan,
Cetol Gloss is the sacrificial coating, if you will. An annual(mid-Atlantic) light-sanding and recoat will renew it. It's the critical bond between any coating and bare wood that needs UV protection, otherwise it breaks down and peels. Gloss is easy to apply and any excursions onto the gel coat aren't too noticeable except to the fussiest of us.

It sounds like applying Gloss over your existing Cetol will work fine until you're ready to strip then I would recommend using Cetol Natural Teak coated with Cetol Gloss.

Ronbo



Homeport: Go to Top of Page

GrecRI

RO# 20962



Posted - Apr 03 2009 :  19:30:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've been using cetol on my trim for a number of years. Usually just a light touch with scotch pad will be enough to prep it for the season's coat. I've actually missed a season on sections a few times(bow pulpit once and cabin rails twice) with no detrimental affects. It is great stuff.


Homeport: Warwick, RI Go to Top of Page

vincg

RO# 27161

Posted - Apr 06 2009 :  19:32:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
use it all the time lasts 2 seasons with minimal up keep touch up so much more durable leaves time for the important stuff lol beers,ladies,fishing, teak needs be re applied to often

Vinny & Annie
Boom De Adda
Brooklyn N.Y.

Homeport: ny Go to Top of Page

jamsac

RO# 28704

Posted - Apr 06 2009 :  23:23:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Gonna hijack this thread a bit, sorry. I asked this question last fall and got a lot of not really helpful answers, so here goes again, sort of. The Cetol can says for marine applications, not below the water line. I have a fair amount of Teak that I will be refinishing in the next weeks, most of it is the standard rails and trim. The concerning piece is the swim grid. It is rather large and due to it's proximity to the water it spends a fair bit of time in contact with and frequently under it (salt water). I have Interlux spar varnish sitting on the bench right now waiting to go on, is the Cetol a practical solution? No, I am not going to raise the swim grid. Here is a view of the dilema.


James


James
1989 Cobalt 21CC
Merc 5.7, 260 hp
'VictoriaRobyn'
MMSI 316 014 608

Edited by - jamsac on Apr 06 2009 23:31:18

Homeport: Gower Point, BC Go to Top of Page

ronbo1

RO# 21769

Posted - Apr 07 2009 :  16:32:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Try a clear epoxy over bare wood for water immersion.



Homeport: Go to Top of Page

Capt. Bill1

RO# 2017

Posted - Apr 07 2009 :  17:43:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
First off please make your picture smaller.
It makes it a bit of a PITA to read your question because it stretches out the posting box. :-)

If your swim platform is not in constant contact with the water, Cetol will work fine.
Just be sure to sand it very, very smooth and preferably do it off the boat with all hardware off as well.
Then use at least 6 coats of Cetol.
You can put 2-3 coats on in a day. And you only have to sand or scuffy the coats you put on the day before.

If it is going to be in contact with the water most if not all the time,
then you might be better off just keeping it clean.

Other wise, as ronbo1 suggested, you would really need to epoxy it and then coat it with
a good 2 part poly for the longest life of the finish. But this can be a lot of work involving
some rather expensive products.



Homeport: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale Go to Top of Page

jamsac

RO# 28704

Posted - Apr 07 2009 :  22:59:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the replies. Sorry 'bout the pic size, it fit my screen fine.

James


James
1989 Cobalt 21CC
Merc 5.7, 260 hp
'VictoriaRobyn'
MMSI 316 014 608

Homeport: Gower Point, BC Go to Top of Page

Capt. Bill1

RO# 2017

Posted - Apr 08 2009 :  02:35:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
"Sorry 'bout the pic size, it fit my screen fine."

No biggy. :-)



Homeport: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale Go to Top of Page

vincg

RO# 27161

Posted - Apr 08 2009 :  16:34:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
before - http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1372/746689067_2f3721c9d5_m.jpg

after - http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3112/2925588920_1a345fa281_m.jpg
thats applied two years ago touched up here and there but still looks fantastic


Vinny & Annie
Boom De Adda
Brooklyn N.Y.

Homeport: ny Go to Top of Page

Capt. Bill1

RO# 2017

Posted - Apr 08 2009 :  18:40:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice job Vinny. Or did Annie do all the work? :-)


Homeport: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale Go to Top of Page

About Time

RO# 26785



Posted - Apr 09 2009 :  08:35:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
jamsac,
I have the same problem
I tried cetrol on my swim platform, didn't last three months as the
teak is underwater when I'm running.
Works great on anything not in the water.
I am now using a product called teakguard.
Easy to apply, dries quickly, just follow the directions for the application
Just my .02
Abouttime



Homeport: Lake Texoma Go to Top of Page
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