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Veg
RO# 20854
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 Posted - Jun 01 2009 : 15:42:35
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I'm going to replace the plugs on my 5.7L Crusader V8s. I'm doing this as routine maintenance, the engines are running fine. I remember that the previous owner of the boat doesn't remember when they were done so my guess is they've been on for years, and the boat used to be in the salt.
I'm assuming that removing may be challenging? Would it be wise to spray some penetrating oil a day before? Any other recommendations if they're on real good?
Oh, and the manual says that AC/MR43LTS are the plugs that I need. Is there any real difference in quality between different brands? I did a search on Boatfix and found two options:
http://www.boatfix.com/shop3/store/listItems.asp?strSearch=mr43lts
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| 2001 Tiara 2900 Open - "O Sole Mio" - Stillwater, MN |
Homeport: Stillwater, MN
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Prospective
RO# 23085
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Posted - Jun 01 2009 : 15:59:29
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Interesting, I have mine changed annually and it's not cheap. $100 just for the 16 plugs. My understanding is that if you fog the motor during winterization, you foul the plugs and they have to be changed in the spring... Would love to avoid the cost and do only every other year if I'm wrong about the above...
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1990 Tiara 3600 Open
Twin 3208 CAT Diesels
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Homeport: Barrington, RI
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ddurand
RO# 5015
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Posted - Jun 01 2009 : 16:00:09
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I would not go by the manual, but have a parts store look them up. Could be an old recommendation.
Doubt you will need penetrating oil.
Get a 4-6" piece of hose that will fit over the insulator. Use it to start the plugs. You can feel the plug start properly with a short piece of hose.
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Homeport: Hyde Park, NY
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Sandy
RO# 1159
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Posted - Jun 01 2009 : 16:42:43
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Either AC or Champion ought to be fine, though I tend to stick with the original AC's. I take it those aren't MPI's as your number is the same as for my old carb'd 5.7's.
You probably won't need penetrating oil, but depending a lot on your access (mine is 2-3 fingers), removing the boots without damaging the cables may be a real bear on plugs that have been in for years unless you use a set of plug-boot pliers. I use both the straight and angled kinds and they saved the day for me during the 1st plug change with the new engines. To avoid removal problems in the future , I put a little dielectric grease on the insluator and plug boot, and a very small amount of never-seez on the plug threads & reduce torque slightly when tightening.
If you have it , it's generally recommended to use a wire gap gauge rather than those handy disc gauge, though I doubt the difference is ever going to be too crucial. Always gap new plugs. Probably better slightly smaller than slightly larger.
The Crusader plug cables are likely labeled at each end (if not do it), but it's safer to replace each plug as you remove the old to avoid any chance of mis-cabling. I mark each plug as it's removed with the cylinder # so I can compare appearance when they are all laid out together, & date the ones going in.
Having handy a breaker bar, swivel ratchet ,several different length extensions and a universal joint to use with your cushioned plug socket can certainly aid in plug removal . Actually, the more tools, the better.- We're guys !
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| Sandy |
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Homeport: The Vineyard
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Veg
RO# 20854
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Posted - Jun 01 2009 : 17:12:03
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Thanks Sandy. They are MPI's, year 2001. That's the plug number though, listed also on a plate on the engine itself.
Hmmm, I didn't know I had to check gap on new plugs, I thought it'd be plug and play.
Well, I'll buy plug boot pliers and a gap gauge (and ask them to teach me how to use it) :-) .
As far as lubing for the boots for future removal would 656 work?
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| 2001 Tiara 2900 Open - "O Sole Mio" - Stillwater, MN |
Edited by - Veg on Jun 01 2009 17:42:05 |
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Homeport: Stillwater, MN
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Chief Alen
RO# 31229
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Posted - Jun 01 2009 : 17:45:40
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Maybe you can find a old plug wire and use it to start the plugs, when i pull them out i vacuum the hole to get any rust around the hole.
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| Be good, be happy for tomorrow is promised to no man. |
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Homeport: Manalapan, NJ
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Sandy
RO# 1159
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Posted - Jun 01 2009 : 18:26:36
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Ernesto- I just checked the owner's manual for my 2003 5.7l MPI vortec's and the engine specifications page lists Crusader R030010, which I think was that AC MR43LTS plug. I had that number written in then crossed it out when I found that both my MPI engines came new with AC 41-932 platimnum plugs manufacturer-installed which have been long -lasting in the MPI's.
I don't know whether there were any substantial changes in the ignition system (i.e., coil output?)from your 2001's to my 2003's that would prevent the platinums from now being appropriate for your engines. The platinums run great in mine and I think I still have them at .060", not sure . They seem to be very long-lasting & forgiving. In just under 6 years, I checked them once at 3-4 yrs and they looked almost brand new but got regapped, then checked & replaced all 16 last year and am sure they did not need replacing .
I would suggest checking with Keith Long, very helpful head tech at Crusader, to see if he would recommend upgrading to the platinums for your older 2001 MPI's.
A lot of plugs you buy are supposedly pre-gapped to some specific gap that may or may not be for your application but even if the same, the plugs can reportedly get knocked around in shipment. I wouldn't think there would be any way they could be knocked out of whack that way, but I've rarely seen several in a row or at least a full set that were still at desired optimum gap out of the box, with some way off. I know the ones I put in last year definitely needed personal attention.
Even if gap recommendations change ( some say it can be better to reduce MPI plug gap to .045", but if it runs well on .060" , why not. Not positive which mine is set at at present though it's logged in on the boat ,) one would want all the plugs gapped the same to avoid a mysterious anomaly on 1 cylinder. There are enough other mysterious anomalies to keep us busy.
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| Sandy |
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Homeport: The Vineyard
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tugboat kevin
RO# 24998
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Posted - Jun 01 2009 : 20:34:41
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on tune ups we now are using bosch dual platinim +2s they have the dual ground strap and are working awesome in the boating world no fouled plugs and very durable most walmarts have them too so they are easy to get they are way better than the old ac's or champs or even ngk
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Homeport: oswego ny
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comptiger5000
RO# 30050
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Posted - Jun 01 2009 : 21:41:10
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I change mine every spring. About $45 for the 16 AC Delco MR43T plugs. However, fogging engines doesn't foul plugs beyond repair. On the generator, I just pull the plugs, wipe them clean (they come out very oily from fogging), check the gaps and put the plugs back in. This has never failed.
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1986 Chris Craft Catalina 381 "Hour Glass"
Twin 454 FWC Mercs, Onan MCCK 6.5kw FWC |
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Homeport: Stamford, CT
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mandm1200
RO# 29581
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Posted - Jun 01 2009 : 23:20:06
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Fogging never hurt my plugs either. I changed my plugs for the first time last year after 14 seasons of use and 14 foggings; engine probably has less than 300 hours on it. Plugs were in great shape and new plugs made no difference in performance.
If you're changing plugs, I would also being changing wires, dist cap, and rotor. Basically a cheap tune up.
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| "If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes." |
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Homeport: Lewisberry, PA
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comptiger5000
RO# 30050
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Posted - Jun 02 2009 : 06:18:42
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Mandm - What do you fog your engines with. My plugs are always pretty gunky, as I've always fogged them by dumping Rislone into the carbs until they start choking, then shut them down.
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1986 Chris Craft Catalina 381 "Hour Glass"
Twin 454 FWC Mercs, Onan MCCK 6.5kw FWC |
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Homeport: Stamford, CT
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OldMariner32
RO# 25936
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Posted - Jun 02 2009 : 07:21:09
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Off topic.
Ernesto, is that a picture of a San Juan sentry box in your Avatar?
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Tom
1979 Correct Craft Mustang
Author of "The Juice of Life" |
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Homeport: North Carolina
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mandm1200
RO# 29581
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Posted - Jun 02 2009 : 09:19:56
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comptiger5000
I use fogging oil which comes in a spray can made by CRC called Marine Engine Stor; lots of brands available. The marina I used to be at would fog engines using 20wt motor oil until the engine shut down. Perhaps that method may ruin the plugs. I am still on the original can. It is sprayed into the carb while the engine is running. On a small engine it will shut it down but on the 7.4L I have to either pull the 12v lead going into the dist while spraying or if I am lucky and have someone with me they can shut the engine off with the key.
For those who do their own work I suggest keeping the some old parts if you have storage room. You never know when a plug may foul, or a belt may break, etc. The old part can be put back on and boating resumed.
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| "If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes." |
Edited by - mandm1200 on Jun 02 2009 09:23:21 |
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Homeport: Lewisberry, PA
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Veg
RO# 20854
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Posted - Jun 02 2009 : 10:31:56
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Tom, yes it is.
Thanks all for your help!
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| 2001 Tiara 2900 Open - "O Sole Mio" - Stillwater, MN |
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Homeport: Stillwater, MN
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BUBBA
RO# 2190
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Posted - Jun 03 2009 : 10:46:20
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Ernesto: AC's are fine NGK's are fine Champion NEVER. I have
personally seen 2 instances where they came apart. Garbadge Plugs.
Luckily nothing fell into the cylinders. As for fogging use a
50/50 miz of Outboard Motor Oil and Marvel Mystery Oil and
you won't have a fouling problem.
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| Dave Bubna |
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Homeport: Cleveland Ohio
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BUBBA
RO# 2190
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Posted - Jun 03 2009 : 10:46:21
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Ernesto: AC's are fine NGK's are fine Champion NEVER. I have
personally seen 2 instances where they came apart. Garbadge Plugs.
Luckily nothing fell into the cylinders. As for fogging use a
50/50 miz of Outboard Motor Oil and Marvel Mystery Oil and
you won't have a fouling problem.
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| Dave Bubna |
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Homeport: Cleveland Ohio
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replacing spark plugs
