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 Winterizing & Springizing
 Exhaust Manifold
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Author Previous Topic: Water system winterization Topic Next Topic: Winter;Store Fuel Tanks full or Empty  

Stars

RO# 31885

Posted - Oct 18 2010 :  13:56:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've been doing this for years. Just draining the blocks, manifolds, water pumps, mufflers and refilling the blocks with anti-freeze (yes, the proper stuff) through the thermostat. And, I've also put about a half gallon in each manifold.

I wonder if I really need to add antifreeze to the manifolds? Is half gallon even worth it?

What do you guys that do, that are do-it-yourselfors?

Homeport: The Waterfront, Michigan

cwms

RO# 7357

Posted - Oct 18 2010 :  14:44:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I like the easy way. Open up the sea strainers, turn on engine and pour a couple of gallons of AF into the strainer. A couple of minutes and it's done.


Homeport: VA Go to Top of Page

Robyns Nest

RO# 4846

Posted - Oct 18 2010 :  15:54:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No strainer if you have outdrives.

__________________________________________________
2003 56 Post Convertible 2x1300HP V12 MAN
2018 30' Sea Hunt Gamefish 2x300HP Yamahas
--------------------------------------------------------
"The future ain't what is used to be."
- Yogi Berra

Homeport: Monmouth Beach NJ Go to Top of Page

cwms

RO# 7357

Posted - Oct 18 2010 :  16:41:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You're right about the outdrives. OP didn't say what kind of boat/engine set up he has.
Of course, if the boat has outdrives and is trailerable, I take a short hose connected to the ear muffs, put a funnel in the other end and pour AF into the funnel while the engine is running. If the engine is RWC, take out the t-stat first.
Still quick and easy.



Homeport: VA Go to Top of Page

JVM225

RO# 28365

Posted - Oct 18 2010 :  20:27:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I just drain the manifolds/risers by removing the hose from the bottom of each manifold and let gravity do the work. Thats all I do to them.
I drain the blocks, then I remove the hose from the thermostat housing and pour the pink down it until the pink comes out of the housing.
I've never had a problem doing it this way.


2002 Sea Ray 410 Sundancer
95 Eastern 22'
05 Maxum 18' Bowrider
C6 Corvette Convertible
68 GTO


Homeport: Farmingdale NY Go to Top of Page

zane

RO# 19940

Posted - Oct 19 2010 :  06:23:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I was always under the impression that by just draining them you are exposing the insides to air and speeding up rust. When I had raw water cooled motors I always filled everything with antifreeze.


Homeport: long island, n.y. Go to Top of Page

KiDa

RO# 16492



Posted - Oct 19 2010 :  07:49:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
An RO (DoubleD I think) had a flush kit for sale a couple of days ago. It's the model I used on my Regal. Worked really well.

____________


Best Regards,

David
Saint Max
'99 330 Sundancer

==========

Capitalism is to this administration what Judaism was to the Third Reich.

-- Me

Homeport: Hopewell, VA Go to Top of Page

cwms

RO# 7357

Posted - Oct 19 2010 :  09:32:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by zane

I was always under the impression that by just draining them you are exposing the insides to air and speeding up rust. When I had raw water cooled motors I always filled everything with antifreeze.



For those people that just drain the engine or don't winterize and instead put a heater in the engine room...
When you start the engine the first time in the spring after sitting 3-4-5 months, look at your exhaust when the engine first starts. When you see what comes out, you will never do your engine again like that again. The exhaust looks like mud when you don't use AF.



Homeport: VA Go to Top of Page

starfishkiller

RO# 16333

Posted - Oct 19 2010 :  10:53:30  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Back when I had a boat with a raw water cooled merc outdrive, I would put antifreeze in the manifold. It was a straight six, so it only had one manifold. There was a hose barb on the front of the manifold, where the raw water entered the manifold. I would open the drain on the riser, which was on the downhill side of the riser at the exhaust output side. I would attach a hose to the hose barb that was long enough to get my funnel higher than the top of the riser. I would then pour antifreeze until it started to come out of the riser drain. I liked to think that antifreeze helped to slow down the effects of rust, during the off season. I now have closed cooled inboards, that have engine coolant cooling the exhaust manifolds. I don't have to worry about it now.

FWIW
eric



Homeport: Budd Lake, NJ Go to Top of Page

Stars

RO# 31885

Posted - Oct 19 2010 :  12:32:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Closed or not, I think it's still raw sea water in the riser/manifold.
Still not sure about adding pink stuff to them. I only get about a half gallon of water when I drain them (each). That's why I've always added about a 1/2 gallon of pink. That's harldy enough to fill them up. In fact, you can only fill them so high before they start to overflow into the mufflers.



Homeport: The Waterfront, Michigan Go to Top of Page

cwms

RO# 7357

Posted - Oct 20 2010 :  17:30:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Stars

Closed or not, I think it's still raw sea water in the riser/manifold.
Still not sure about adding pink stuff to them. I only get about a half gallon of water when I drain them (each). That's why I've always added about a 1/2 gallon of pink. That's harldy enough to fill them up. In fact, you can only fill them so high before they start to overflow into the mufflers.



Risers/elbows are ALWAYS cooled by raw water. If the FWC system is a full system, the manifolds are cooled by the closed system anti-freeze, NOT raw water. Some engines have what is called a "half" system where the engine is a closed system but the manifolds are RWC.

I've never had a half system. All my boats have always had full systems and I never had to worry aboat the manifolds. As I said, just start the engine and pour a couple gallons of AF into the sea strainer and it's done. Can't be easier or quicker.



Homeport: VA Go to Top of Page

Stars

RO# 31885

Posted - Oct 21 2010 :  08:39:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
True enough on your technique cwms. However I already have done the blocks and used about 10 gallons and so I don't want to run the engines this time. I think that I will just put about a half gallon AF in each manifold - approx the amount of raw water that I drained.


Edited by - Stars on Oct 21 2010 08:50:14

Homeport: The Waterfront, Michigan Go to Top of Page
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