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 Blowers!
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Author Previous Topic: Jim from Silverton Topic Next Topic: 442 silverton  

WALSHIE

RO# 2124



Posted - May 01 2011 :  09:18:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Both of my blowers stopped working at the end of last season. I searched and searched for a fuse...was unable to find one. This did not make sense to me so I searched some more..found nothing.

I went to remove them yesterday. After crawling in the bilge upside down, like a pretzel, as I was going to remove them, low and behold, what do I see...an inline fuse about a foot from the blower. WTF! In some ways, I got lucky, both only needed fuses. But damn, my life could have been much easier if they used one of the blank fuse holders on the fuse block!
Favorite Quote: Don't sweat the petty things...AND...Don't pet the sweaty things!! - Steven Tyler

Homeport: Hudson River

Gregory S

RO# 2620



Posted - May 01 2011 :  18:52:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
yup, inline fuse on each. why didn't you ask? I would be concerned though, why did the fuses blow/ may be a sign of a problem with the blowers themselves.


Homeport: Norfolk, Va Go to Top of Page

WALSHIE

RO# 2124



Posted - May 02 2011 :  09:29:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I didn't ask because I wanted to take a look first. Here's a question though: Is FIVE amp the right rating for a blower? That's what was in there.

I will keep an eye on them and periodically verify both are working with a hand over the exhaust vent instead of just listening for the noise.


Favorite Quote: Don't sweat the petty things...AND...Don't pet the sweaty things!! - Steven Tyler

Homeport: Hudson River Go to Top of Page

RWS

RO# 25075



Posted - May 02 2011 :  11:59:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sometimes a nice piece of jewlery works better than a fuse....

just costs more !

RWS


1983 Trojan International 10 Meter
Twin Yanmar 315 Turbodiesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/

Homeport: FL Go to Top of Page

Gregory S

RO# 2620



Posted - May 02 2011 :  16:12:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'll have to look at my schematic.


Homeport: Norfolk, Va Go to Top of Page

walterv

RO# 12640



Posted - May 02 2011 :  17:27:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
"Is FIVE amp the right rating for a blower?"

Blond or Brunette ???


And always remember, life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by those moments that take our breath away.

George Carlin

Homeport: Go to Top of Page

RWS

RO# 25075



Posted - May 02 2011 :  19:22:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by walterv

"Is FIVE amp the right rating for a blower?"

Blond or Brunette ???



=============================================

one of each if you are doing it right !

RWS


1983 Trojan International 10 Meter
Twin Yanmar 315 Turbodiesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/

Homeport: FL Go to Top of Page

Billylll

RO# 24494

Posted - May 02 2011 :  20:42:30  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by WALSHIE

I didn't ask because I wanted to take a look first. Here's a question though: Is FIVE amp the right rating for a blower? That's what was in there.

I will keep an eye on them and periodically verify both are working with a hand over the exhaust vent instead of just listening for the noise.


Seems a bit on the low side. I would have to check but if 5 amps is for 2 blowers that really seems like no room for error. If it is a glass fuse and holder do yourself a favor replace it with a weatherproof ATC style fuse and holder.
Bill


Bill Lentz
Little Egg, N.J.

Edited by - Billylll on May 02 2011 20:44:19

Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J. Go to Top of Page

Gregory S

RO# 2620



Posted - May 03 2011 :  14:16:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Haven't got to the schematic yet, but do remember each blower has it's own in line fuse.


Homeport: Norfolk, Va Go to Top of Page

WALSHIE

RO# 2124



Posted - May 04 2011 :  13:28:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I just checked out attwood blowers. 3"=3.1amp, 4"=4.4amp. So I guess what I have is correct, one 5amp fuse per blower. And yes, it is in a weather proof ATC style fuse holder.



Favorite Quote: Don't sweat the petty things...AND...Don't pet the sweaty things!! - Steven Tyler

Homeport: Hudson River Go to Top of Page

KiDa

RO# 16492



Posted - May 04 2011 :  13:43:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Is there any reason you could not move the fuse to a more logical location; like the dash?

____________


Best Regards,

David
Saint Max
'99 330 Sundancer

==========

Capitalism is to this administration what Judaism was to the Third Reich.

-- Me

Homeport: Hopewell, VA Go to Top of Page

WALSHIE

RO# 2124



Posted - May 04 2011 :  14:33:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No thanks Kida, I'd rather not. There is a perfect spot, behind the breaker panel are fuse blocks, some un-used. However, as long as I NOW know where they are...I'm too lazy to move a fuse holder.

Favorite Quote: Don't sweat the petty things...AND...Don't pet the sweaty things!! - Steven Tyler

Homeport: Hudson River Go to Top of Page

Billylll

RO# 24494

Posted - Dec 25 2011 :  13:53:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have to say that rated current is at a full battery charge there is almost no room for error. What size wire is feeding the blowers? Depending on the wire size I would rather see a 7.5 amp fuse in each line however if these are glass style fuses I would definately replace the holders with sealed ATC style fuses (spade style fuses). I can't tell you how many defective (worn out) glass style fuse holders I have helped people track down and replace in boat applications especially in the ER. A good test is to let the blowers run and hold the fuse holder if it gets warm or hot it's time to replace the fuse holders. I rewired my ER so I ran 2 #8 feeders with seperate fuses after 2 relays from the relay to each blower I ran #10 marine grade stranded. The relays are now controlled by either the main panel blower switch or the helm blower switch. It made a huge difference in the speed in which the blowers ran at. My original blower wiring was similar to your's and had #16 wire and no relays. I think the upper helm was over 40+ feet round trip. Now with the relays outside of the ER all the switches do is turn on the relay current. Each relay has a sperate feed from the starting battery bank off each side. This did 2 things no voltage sag at the blowers, meets ABYC explosion proof requirements the relays are located just outside of the ER and are sealed automotive horn style making the blowers run faster then the old factory wiring and the fuses or relays can be serviced without standing on my head. Since the blowers were new and installed during the repower I did not need to replace them.
Something to think about even though this thread is quite old.
Bill


Bill Lentz
Little Egg, N.J.

Edited by - Billylll on Dec 25 2011 14:03:20

Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J. Go to Top of Page
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