BoaterEd Store      - Help Support This Forum - Join Today!      Hunting/Fishing Stuff
BoaterEd
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register

Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Avatar Legend | Statistics
[ Active Members: 0 | Guests: 83 ]  [ Total: 83 ]  [ Newest Member: luna sea ]
 All Forums
 Forums
 Marine Detailing & Fabrication
 help with waxing
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: Sunblock Stains Topic Next Topic: Enclosure clear plastic  

Cobalt 25

RO# 471

Posted - Sep 22 2011 :  15:00:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Each year, including this past spring, I usually get someone asking if our boat is new. It is a 10 year old Formula.

Today, when starting my usual process of waxing for winter lay up, I noticed that the surface looked awful in certain light conditions. I expect that if I were to look at it under different lighting or from farther away it would look fine. But it bothers me that it looks so bad close up.

I tried a WM product that said it was a cleaner/waxer with negative results. What should I do to bring back a cleaner look from close up before I wax? Actually, what is the current thinking- wax or polymer?

thanks, Peter
Peter Haviland

Homeport: MA

Robyns Nest

RO# 4846

Posted - Sep 22 2011 :  15:41:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Your Formula has Imron paint as well as gelcote.

Which one looks bad?


__________________________________________________
2003 56 Post Convertible 2x1300HP V12 MAN
2001 26' Boston Whaler Outrage 2 x Mercury 225 Optimax
--------------------------------------------------------
"The future ain't what is used to be."
- Yogi Berra

Homeport: Monmouth Beach NJ Go to Top of Page

Cobalt 25

RO# 471

Posted - Sep 22 2011 :  16:17:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The gelcoat on the deck looks bad. The paint still looks fine. It seems that I can't notice the bad stuff on the (white) sides and hull of the boat as much as the foredeck. Does this make sense?

Peter Haviland

Homeport: MA Go to Top of Page

Veg

RO# 20854



Posted - Sep 22 2011 :  16:43:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sounds like you need to give it a good buff. Everyone has they favorite products for buffing... I use Aquabuff 2000 with a Harbor Freight buffer, then wax... Comes out like new... I usually buff every other season, then just wax the next season.



2001 Tiara 2900 Open - "O Sole Mio" - Stillwater, MN

Edited by - Veg on Sep 22 2011 16:47:33

Homeport: Stillwater, MN Go to Top of Page

Surfer

RO# 12580

Posted - Sep 22 2011 :  16:44:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Foredeck is gel coat, or non skid?
Any surface facing upward, i.e., horizontally, gets more uv damage.
If it's gel coat, it probably needs an oxidation removing compound before waxing. Cleaner/waxes work well only if oxidation is minimal.
If it's Imron, don't compound it.
Buzz



Homeport: Anasco Bay, Puerto Rico Go to Top of Page

Gregory S

RO# 2620



Posted - Sep 22 2011 :  16:45:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Buff Magic and a rotary buffer. follow with Rejex. not on the painted surfaces though.


Edited by - Gregory S on Sep 22 2011 16:48:14

Homeport: Norfolk, Va Go to Top of Page

Surfer

RO# 12580

Posted - Sep 22 2011 :  16:57:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Some products availability make it hard to shop for. Of all the boat stores that were in Portland, Or., and there were many, never saw Buff Magic, Propolish, Aquabuff, Rejex. So you had to either order online and pay haz mat shipping charges, or buy local, which was Meguiar's, 3M, and a few others.
Most will give good results if done correctly.



Homeport: Anasco Bay, Puerto Rico Go to Top of Page

defboat

RO# 9541

Posted - Sep 22 2011 :  19:01:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
We have a 1986 Regal, 32 LOA, in the saltwater (Piscataqua River/New Castle, NH) May - October. Original gelcoat, heck, original everything!

one word: Collonite. The Collonite Cleaner/ is the BEST, it has a very mild abrasive and actually cleans anything in its way and gives a great base for the wax. The Collonite wax is the next best.

Try it, it works wonders!



Homeport: boats in New Castle, NH Go to Top of Page

Cobalt 25

RO# 471

Posted - Sep 22 2011 :  19:07:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Foredeck is both non-skid and gel coat. Non-skid is fine. I'm assuming that the deck is gel coat, not painted, right?

So- rotary buffer and either Buff Magic or Aquabuff?

Then should I go with Collinite or Rejex? Last fall I did half the deck with Collinite and half with Rejex. But it didn't matter that I stupidly forgot which was which this summer because they both looked about the same!


Peter Haviland

Homeport: MA Go to Top of Page

GripB

RO# 18473

Posted - Sep 23 2011 :  20:06:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cobalt 25

Foredeck is both non-skid and gel coat. Non-skid is fine. I'm assuming that the deck is gel coat, not painted, right?
The deck (vertical surfaces) would be buffable/polishable gelcoat.

quote:
Originally posted by Cobalt 25

So- rotary buffer and either Buff Magic or Aquabuff?

Then should I go with Collinite or Rejex?
Whether you use Buff Magic or Aqua Buff, you should re-seal the gelcoat, preferably with a polymer polish such as Yacht Brites's Pro-Polish or Gel-Coat Labs Micro Polish. You could then follow up with a wax step (I prefer a polymer based wax as well, Mequiars Premium Flagship).

Hopefully next season, you can get away with just the Pro Polish or equal and a waxing.

Greg


------------------------------------
2003 Cruisers Yachts 3372 (sold)
"More Lee'Sure Time"
2011 Boston Whaler 150 SS
"Just 4 Fun"

Edited by - GripB on Sep 23 2011 20:09:08

Homeport: Lakeland, FL Go to Top of Page

Cobalt 25

RO# 471

Posted - Sep 23 2011 :  22:26:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
GripB,

I did some research and found that Pro Polish is described as a polymer wax. Are you saying that I need to put something like Meguiars premium Flagship over the Pro Polish?

Peter


Peter Haviland

Homeport: MA Go to Top of Page

GripB

RO# 18473

Posted - Sep 24 2011 :  06:11:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cobalt 25

GripB,

I did some research and found that Pro Polish is described as a polymer wax. Are you saying that I need to put something like Meguiars premium Flagship over the Pro Polish?

Peter

You don't "have" to Peter, but I do because it really deepens the shine and adds a wax layer. I use a Mequiars spray polymer wax through-out the season as well to maintain protection.

It's a bit of work in the Spring, but the compliments through-out the season make it worth while .

My thought is, it's a big investment, protect it.

Greg


------------------------------------
2003 Cruisers Yachts 3372 (sold)
"More Lee'Sure Time"
2011 Boston Whaler 150 SS
"Just 4 Fun"

Edited by - GripB on Sep 24 2011 08:17:28

Homeport: Lakeland, FL Go to Top of Page

bradt

RO# 31225

Posted - Sep 24 2011 :  07:51:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
+1 Aquabuff 2000......can't be beat...expensive

SlapShot
Carver 444 CPMY
Annapolis, MD

Homeport: md Go to Top of Page

KiDa

RO# 16492



Posted - Sep 24 2011 :  10:35:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My boat is starting to show it's age as well. I have not been too pleased with the price v. quality of the "professionals" around central VA, so it looks like yours truly is going to have to tackle the job this time.

Y'all are going to laugh but I saw it on the internet so it's gotta be true. I also actually called the fiberglass repair company to make sure it wasn't a joke.

1. Gobs (Their word not mine) of Flitz.

2. A 10" orbital buffer.

3. A wool bonnet.

4. Go to town.

She told me every boat that leaves the shop gets that treatment prior to departure.

The name of the company is Gibbons Fiberglass and Aluminum Boat Repair out of Bismark, ND. Very nice folks to talk to. I have no personal or financial interest in Gibbons. I just want a shiny boat with minimum effort.


____________


Best Regards,

David
Saint Max
'99 330 Sundancer

==========

Capitalism is to this administration what Judaism was to the Third Reich.

-- Me

Homeport: Hopewell, VA Go to Top of Page

Harlan

RO# 15327



Posted - Sep 24 2011 :  10:55:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David,
Here's a clip you may be interested in-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlUfRsZcmeM


Take a lesson from your dog. No matter what life brings you kick some grass over that sh*t and move on.

Homeport: Shreveport,LA Go to Top of Page

Cobalt 25

RO# 471

Posted - Oct 03 2011 :  16:22:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Initial results-

Tried Buff Magic and applied it by hand because I didn't really have a pad I felt comfortable using. You have to apply by hand to hard-to-access sections anyway. I buffed some area by hand and other places with the buff pad they recommended.

Results were mixed. Hand buffing was frustrating because it kept leaving little streaks that were difficult to buff out. Power buffing was fairly good but I believe you have to wash the pad fairly often.

I then tried a test spot of Rejex. It left the test area much worse than the surrounding buffed area! I then tried a Collinite test spot and it was fine, and it also cleaned up the previous test spot nicely. I then finished the starboard side deck using Collinite and it looks fairly nice.

Why the Buff Magic streaking? Why did Rejex make it look worse? Am I doing anything wrong?

This whole process isn't as easy or rewarding as I hoped it would be.

Peter


Peter Haviland

Homeport: MA Go to Top of Page

GripB

RO# 18473

Posted - Oct 03 2011 :  17:10:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Peter,

Buff Magic should really be applied with a rotary buffer (low RPM) then hand buffed with a high quality microfiber (I prefer Dragon Fibre). You also don't need much of the product...a little goes a long way. The first time I used Buff Magic I got excellent results with the methods I mention.

Greg


------------------------------------
2003 Cruisers Yachts 3372 (sold)
"More Lee'Sure Time"
2011 Boston Whaler 150 SS
"Just 4 Fun"

Edited by - GripB on Oct 03 2011 17:39:37

Homeport: Lakeland, FL Go to Top of Page

Veg

RO# 20854



Posted - Oct 03 2011 :  17:27:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I do my whole 30' boat (under the rubrails) with a rotary buffer in about an hour and a half. With Aquabuff as long as you use little product you hardly have to clean the pad at all. You couldn't streak it if you tried. IDK about cleaning the pad that much, I do my whole boat w/o taking the pad off, just taking a minute a couple of times to run this on it to remove the excess:



You do have to keep it moist though. (That's what she said).


2001 Tiara 2900 Open - "O Sole Mio" - Stillwater, MN

Edited by - Veg on Oct 03 2011 17:29:32

Homeport: Stillwater, MN Go to Top of Page

Capt. Bill1

RO# 2017

Posted - Oct 03 2011 :  18:41:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If your gelcoat is real bad you may need to wet sand it before compounding and polishing. And gelcoat will wear out to the point that nothing will bring it back to new and then it's time to paint.

Flitz doeas work very well on gelcoat. Because it's a high quality (and high priced) polish after all.




Homeport: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale Go to Top of Page

Cobalt 25

RO# 471

Posted - Oct 03 2011 :  20:01:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Maybe I used too much product. Do you keep it moist with water?

I don't have the tool Ernesto displayed, what other tool could I use to clean up the pad?

Bill, the gelcoat is not too bad at all.

Anybody have any idea why the Collinite seemed to work better than Rejex? I've been reasonably happy with Rejex in the past.

Peter


Peter Haviland

Homeport: MA Go to Top of Page

GripB

RO# 18473

Posted - Oct 03 2011 :  21:32:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cobalt 25

I don't have the tool Ernesto displayed, what other tool could I use to clean up the pad?

Here are some pad (wool and foam) cleaner tools: http://www.superiorcarcare.net/how-to-clean-buffer-pads.html

Greg


------------------------------------
2003 Cruisers Yachts 3372 (sold)
"More Lee'Sure Time"
2011 Boston Whaler 150 SS
"Just 4 Fun"

Homeport: Lakeland, FL Go to Top of Page

GripB

RO# 18473

Posted - Oct 03 2011 :  21:32:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cobalt 25

I don't have the tool Ernesto displayed, what other tool could I use to clean up the pad?

Here are some pad (wool and foam) cleaner tools: http://www.superiorcarcare.net/how-to-clean-buffer-pads.html

Greg


------------------------------------
2003 Cruisers Yachts 3372 (sold)
"More Lee'Sure Time"
2011 Boston Whaler 150 SS
"Just 4 Fun"

Homeport: Lakeland, FL Go to Top of Page

Cobalt 25

RO# 471

Posted - Oct 04 2011 :  21:10:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Greg.

This project has been driving me crazy. It took me an hour to do about 6 square feet and it still doesn't even look that good.

I can't seem to remove all the swirls and marks. There is also little patches of "dots" that I can't seem to buff out. I tried putting some moisture on the buff pad but that doesn't seem to do any good.

The Shurhold buff pad is new but I wonder if it's dirty already. I've only done half the deck of a 26 footer. I bought some new pads tonight at the local auto store tonight and hope they'll clean things up tomorrow.

Any other suggestions?

Peter


Peter Haviland

Homeport: MA Go to Top of Page

GripB

RO# 18473

Posted - Oct 05 2011 :  18:30:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cobalt 25

Any other suggestions?

Not sure what else to tell ya without being there and seeing what's going on.

I use a 100% wool pad with Buff Magic (probably use the same pad with Aqua Buff since they're similar in aggressiveness). As I mentioned a little goes a long way. I do a small area area (3x3, maybe 4x4) and work it in on low speed to a fine haze with a rotary polisher. I then hand buff it off/in with a quality microfiber.

After that I use a polymer based micro-polish/sealer. I apply that with a random-orbital buffer on higher speed. I use CCS foam pads appropriate for the product. Check this link out for some pad info: http://www.autogeek.net/lc-ccs-7inch-pads.html

If I'm motivated (have help ), I'll do a coat of Meguiars Flagship Polymer wax. Again with the random-orbital and a CCS ultra soft pad.

Hope this helps.

Greg


------------------------------------
2003 Cruisers Yachts 3372 (sold)
"More Lee'Sure Time"
2011 Boston Whaler 150 SS
"Just 4 Fun"

Homeport: Lakeland, FL Go to Top of Page

Capt. Bill1

RO# 2017

Posted - Oct 05 2011 :  19:23:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cobalt 25



Any other suggestions?

Peter



You can use a screw driver to clean wool pads. And try using foam pads to remove the swirls.

The dots could be repairs made to the gelcoat at the factory. If that is the case you will not get them out.

But again, once gelcoat gets old it just doesn't want to come back like it once did. And some gelcoats are better and longer lasting than others.




Homeport: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale Go to Top of Page

Cobalt 25

RO# 471

Posted - Oct 05 2011 :  22:33:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Today I got a former student of mine to stop by. He has been a professional detailer for twenty years.

I learned a lot. First he showed me how important the spur tool, mentioned by Ernesto and Bill, was for cleaning the pad and I will buy one. He then used a buffing product I had never seen before and went over the area that I could not get right. He then used another, less aggressive polishing product with a foam pad. He finally cleaned and buffed it all out with a microfiber cloth. Success! He told me that my pad was dirty and THAT caused my problems.

Earlier I had posted my feeling that the gelcoat wasn't that bad. Wrong! He showed me all the white residue that was produced by the buffing. This project was apparently long overdue but he said it wasn't TOO late.

He and I will soon finish the deck and then wax. He swears by Collinite.

Thanks for all your help, guys. I feel I have learned a lot from many sources.

Peter


Peter Haviland

Homeport: MA Go to Top of Page

wezie

RO# 32638

Posted - Aug 19 2015 :  14:07:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
3 m finess it is a good swirl remover.


Homeport: TX Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic: Sunblock Stains Topic Next Topic: Enclosure clear plastic  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Jump To:
BoaterEd © BoaterEd Go To Top Of Page
This page took 0.49 seconds to load
Forum Guidelines and Privacy Notice

    

Boatered.com