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 Hate to admit it but i need help. Coolmatic Refrig
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Author Previous Topic: Sierra Intake Imellers - Good, bad? Topic Next Topic: Spark plug gap  

Robski97

RO# 7334

Posted - May 10 2012 :  15:20:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ok so my Salon refrigerator will not work on DC. The lights work , the compressor I Think ( yes im not sure ) runs for a short bit and shuts off and repeats all over again . I called WAECO and they were useless. No diagrams not sure if there is a condensor fan etc. It works fine on 110 volts but its a 12 volt DC refrigerator. so there is an inverter turning the 110 into 12 volts . So im scratching my head. so lets back up a sec. In DC mode I hear what could be the compressor . If its not the compressor then WTF is it ? The Waeco idiot said if there was a fan I wouldnt hear it and he didnt think there was so i think there is since he said no. YES i have to pull it out but glue they used to laminate the cabients is stuck to the mounting plate of the refrigerator. So thats an issue im not dealing with 2 weeks before memorial day. So I figured Id ask for some guessing help.

SO to repeat myself the 12 VOLT frig doesnt work on 12 volts ..lol its not the thermostat. the lights work and I hear something every few minutes coming from the rear. ( yes i added this for entertainment ) The 12 VOLT refrig works fine in 110 volt mode.

Any thoughts....

Thanx

Rob
2006 44 Sundancer

Homeport: Merrick, NY

Billylll

RO# 24494

Posted - May 10 2012 :  15:30:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I would measure a 12VDC high current point after the AC to DC power supply, it could be a switching relay or an open switching diode? Try AC 1st then DC, see if you have a major voltage drop (could be from a bad connection). Are you sure the frig is 110VAC and when they run it on 12VDC they use an internal switching supply (inverter of sorts)?
Bill


WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J.

Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J. Go to Top of Page

Robski97

RO# 7334

Posted - May 10 2012 :  16:27:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Billy.
The frig is a 12 volt DC frig.

Rob


2006 44 Sundancer

Homeport: Merrick, NY Go to Top of Page

Billylll

RO# 24494

Posted - May 10 2012 :  16:38:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well then I would look at the 12VDC circuit feeding it especially the point were the AC power supply ties in to the DC buss. You did say it also runs on 110VAC correct Rob?
Bill


WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J.

Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J. Go to Top of Page

CurrentSea

RO# 10265



Posted - May 10 2012 :  16:45:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I read Some where a guy who had this issue found out it was his battery.
In other words output was less than 12v so fridge wouldn't start.
Runs on A/C because there is plenty of constant power hitting the circuitry before it is stepped down to 12v.


2009 Regal 4080
Volvo Diesel IPS

Homeport: Anchorage YC - Lindenhurst, NY Go to Top of Page

getakey

RO# 32379



Posted - May 10 2012 :  16:51:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I was thinking battery as well


Homeport: CA Go to Top of Page

Robski97

RO# 7334

Posted - May 10 2012 :  16:52:30  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
YEs it has a 110 volt inverter.

Dave,
I have 2 other refrigerators and a freezer all 12 volt on the same house battery circuit of 2 group 31's .


Billy, with out a wiring diagram im cluessles but could the 110 volt inverter or related relay being hung up cause this ? But like i said in 12 volt mode something making noise back there ....

Rob


2006 44 Sundancer

Homeport: Merrick, NY Go to Top of Page

CurrentSea

RO# 10265



Posted - May 10 2012 :  16:54:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Are they the same make and model, maybe they can run on less than 12v.
Also didn't you recently change your batteries?
Seems kind of coincidental.


2009 Regal 4080
Volvo Diesel IPS

Homeport: Anchorage YC - Lindenhurst, NY Go to Top of Page

walterv

RO# 12640



Posted - May 10 2012 :  17:00:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ok,
Let me see if I get this
While on 110v all works fine? If so, than there is no problem with the compressor, condenser, and all the other crap that makes the fridge cold and work.
I assume this is a 12v Refrigerator, if so, than since it works on 110 volts all your 12v circuitry is fine, no need to look there.
I would assume your feed for when it is working on 12 volts is the problem, not having a schematic sucks the big one but not death. PS, how the f can the manufacture not have a schematic!!!!!, YGBSM!!!
sounds more to me you were talking to a moron on the phone, I would have asked to speak to someone else.

So,
I think we determined (if all above is correct), you have a 12v power problem. So lets start at the breaker switch in your breaker box. Let's make sure you have 12V leaving the breaker. If so, lets go to the wires at the fridge that supply 12V to the fridge and measure voltage there. Side note, does searay give you a manual like Silverton that shows every wire on the boat and what it does?
If you find voltage at the fridge then you more than likely have a relay or IC problem. Let me know if you determined you have 12V up to the fridge.

I will help you with this, I am pretty good at trouble shooting


And always remember, life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by those moments that take our breath away.

George Carlin

Homeport: Go to Top of Page

Billylll

RO# 24494

Posted - May 10 2012 :  17:01:57  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rob, sounds like the problem is in the 12 VDC at the unit or feeding it, is the AC (inverter) supply built in or shared with other devices? It sounds like the inverter is really a power supply (12VDC) output.
Bill


WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J.

Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J. Go to Top of Page

Robski97

RO# 7334

Posted - May 10 2012 :  20:40:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ok guess I'm pulling it out ! Do we have a wood worker in the house ?

Rob


2006 44 Sundancer

Homeport: Merrick, NY Go to Top of Page

Billylll

RO# 24494

Posted - May 10 2012 :  20:50:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You might have 12VDC but not under a load. Make sure the 12VDC is there when the compressor trys to start. I vote it's a bad DC connection.
Bill


WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J.

Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J. Go to Top of Page

Robski97

RO# 7334

Posted - May 14 2012 :  08:59:35  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
1st attempt to pull out the refrigerator was a fail . I thought I was getting hung up on something as i was pulling it out. Nope , I ran out of wire. THE FING power wires are too short. THE WIRES ARE TOO SHORT !!!!!!



2006 44 Sundancer

Homeport: Merrick, NY Go to Top of Page

bobalong

RO# 19429

Posted - May 14 2012 :  09:31:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Something is amiss. Unless they built all cabinetry around an installed refrigerator there has to be some extra wire. Was the wire, cable tied by reaching thru a cabinet door or drawer after installation ?


Homeport: Sutherrrn Indianannna Go to Top of Page

bobalong

RO# 19429

Posted - May 14 2012 :  09:33:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Don't torture yourself trying to remove it. Do as above ppl have said and check your power lines at the other end first. (braker, 12 V buss)


Homeport: Sutherrrn Indianannna Go to Top of Page

KiDa

RO# 16492



Posted - May 14 2012 :  09:41:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Robski97

1st attempt to pull out the refrigerator was a fail . I thought I was getting hung up on something as i was pulling it out. Nope , I ran out of wire. THE FING power wires are too short. THE WIRES ARE TOO SHORT !!!!!!





So we can rule out a voltage drop due overlength wires.

Seriously. Something is not making sense to me. My fridge is 12/110. It has an inverter. The fridge on my Regal was 12 volt only. IIRC, it had a dual feed of sorts. One from the battery charger and one from the batteries.

Cut the wires. Hook the fridge direct to a battery or jump pack to see if it works on 12 volt without all those breakers and wires in between. That should at least partially isolate the problem.

IF the fridge works, see what you have coming out of the wires you cut at the hot end. If possible, trace them back. It could be any number of things. You could consider running a jumper from the breaker to the fridge to further isolate the probem to a section of wire.

Just some thoughts.

Is the schematic online?


____________


Best Regards,

David
Saint Max
'99 330 Sundancer

==========

Capitalism is to this administration what Judaism was to the Third Reich.

-- Me

Homeport: Hopewell, VA Go to Top of Page

Robski97

RO# 7334

Posted - May 14 2012 :  10:01:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The 12 volt breaker for the refrigerator feeds 3 units ( 2 fridges and a freezer ) I only have an issue with one.

The fridge had to be installed after the cabinets. BEHIND the cabinets is my aft HEAD. (NO ACCESS ) to the right of the fridge is a solid cabinet. To the left of the fridge is the Freezer.The next plan of attack is to remove the freezer and see what that gives me access to. I can tell if its the 110 volt plug thats short or the 12 volt wiring thats short. Im hoping its the 110 line. To be continued .

Rob


2006 44 Sundancer

Homeport: Merrick, NY Go to Top of Page
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