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nwaring
RO# 16045
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 Posted - May 21 2012 : 14:21:18
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Last year I installed a new Ocean Breeze 12K unit in my V-berth. From the beginning if run it long enough it will freeze up. I understand the 2 main things that causes this is poor ventilation or low Freon. I put a 6X14 grille in the door for it to draw air from. The old Cruiseair unit that was replaced by the new unit was 17 years old and there wasn't any ventilation other than what it sucked out of the space under the V-berth. Marine service for this kind of stuff is about nonexistence in our area and I was wondering if Freon can be added to these units like you do with car or can a refrigerator guy be able to do it?
Thanks
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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MikeeH
RO# 6342
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 14:25:58
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I do not think you can purchase freon. I believe it can only be purchased by licensed A/C techs. Your proble does sound like a low freon issue.
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Mike
I recently realized that at this stage of my life I'm now wise enough to know better, but old enough not to give a damn.
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Homeport: Still Pond, MD
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Billylll
RO# 24494
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 14:47:28
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It could also be high pressure created by the output fan in other words not enough flow to the area intended to be cooled because of restricted or damaged (kinked) ductwork. Also look at your waterflow and AC voltage a sag in either will cause ice and eventually the unit shutting down. Make sure the unit's air filter is clean, the one against the exchanger. You might be suprised at the amount of crud on the filter that can restrict the airflow in just a year.
Then it still might be low on Freon.
Bill
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WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J. |
Edited by - Billylll on May 21 2012 14:57:14 |
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Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J.
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 15:01:02
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Mike, freon is the wrong word, I'm sure it has the newer R12 in it but maybe that can’t be bought either! Bill, filter is clean and water flow is good. I have spoken with Joe at Ocean Breeze and he thinks I either need to move the thermostat or I need a 3rd outlet. The thermostat is on the wall leading into the v-berth. The old Cruiseair unit only had 2 outlets, a 4" that outlets into the V-berth and a 5" that works its way out to the galley area. Both of those have a good volume coming out of them. He is suggesting maybe a 2” into the head as a 3rd.
Thanks
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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rnbenton
RO# 31163
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 15:14:57
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Yes, low gas refrigerant is probably causing your freeze up. Yes, it is most likely R12. Yes, you can buy it. I recently bought some from a popular internet auction site along with the hoses and gauges.
Bob
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Captain, Sea Tow Central Florida, St. Johns River
Key West 196 Bay Reef, 150 Yamaha
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Homeport: Palm Coast, FL
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Billylll
RO# 24494
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 15:31:04
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Niles I can't see moving the thermostat helping unless it is in direct sulight and always reads warmer then the cabin air temp causing your unit to never shut off. It's hard to believe a 1 year old unit would need a recharge unless something was wrong with it.
Bill
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WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J. |
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Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J.
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PascalG
RO# 12212
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 15:46:50
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i'd have someone check the pressure and refill as needed. it's not as simple as just adding gas, you need to put gauges on it and see what's going on.
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Pascal
1970 Hatteras 53 MY
26' Starfish sloop
12' Westphal Catboat
16' Hobie Cat
13' Sandbarhopper
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Homeport: Miami, FL
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rduhon
RO# 29321
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 16:34:46
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Low Freon, or lack of air across the evaporator coil will cause freezing, those are the most common causes. There are other things, but probably not going to be something that complicated.
Take the grills off of the intake and outlets to see if that will help. It may give a little more air flow.
To do a poor mans way of checking freon, put your hand on the front of the evap coil and see if it gets cold all the way up to the top.
If it does, it is usually full. Do that before it freezes up.
Also, if you have old ducts, they can collapse internally.
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Homeport: Lake Charles, La
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bobalong
RO# 19429
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 16:44:39
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He said he bought it new last year. Nobody in 2011 charged anything new with R12. I bet it's been 10 or more years since anything came from the factory with R12. Even R22 is outdated. I vote for air restriction as many on here suggest..
I mentioned this some time back, but I found a second hidden filter under my foreward berth, had regularly cleaned the filter that was right on the evaporator coil, then low and behold I found the one Chris Craft had installed on the berth support.
Edit: I just looked it up and the last new R12 refrigerant was made in 1995. Yes I know it is still around, and it's expensive when you find it. R22 is to be phased out in 2020 I think.
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Edited by - bobalong on May 21 2012 16:49:13 |
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Homeport: Sutherrrn Indianannna
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MikeeH
RO# 6342
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 16:49:01
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Yeah, I said 'freon' because I didn't know the new stuff is called 'R12" and I couldn't spell "refrigerant". 
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Mike
I recently realized that at this stage of my life I'm now wise enough to know better, but old enough not to give a damn.
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Homeport: Still Pond, MD
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JimPend
RO# 5022
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 17:01:09
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I would say 6X14 isn't big enough, if that's all it has for intake.
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| Jim P. |
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Homeport: Port Clinton, OH
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Billylll
RO# 24494
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 17:04:15
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You have probably been all over your boat but my front unit never worked well in the head and the port bunk room. Someone before I bought the boat had replaced half the ductwork with non insulated blower hose. That's all gone now and all 3 rooms cool and heat like they should.
Bill
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WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J. |
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Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J.
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destination unknown
RO# 12619
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 17:18:57
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I had the same problem, what you need to get from the A/C manufacturer is the total square inches required for supply and return. Keep in mind if the grill for the supply is a 5" square and u only have a 3" hose going to it your supply is 7" square compared to 25" square for the grill. I was short a large amount of square inches from the supply side. Added a third supply and solved half the problem. Also needed to add a remote temperature sensor i/f/o the unit on the return side so unit new exact return temperature of the air. Also ensure that there is not any objects in the V Birth between the return grill and the unit.
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Homeport: Anchorage Yacht Club Lindenhurst, NY
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rduhon
RO# 29321
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 19:40:37
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For a 12,000 btu a/c, you should have a 12"X 12" or larger return grill.
Or 144 square inches of return grill.
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Edited by - rduhon on May 21 2012 19:41:31 |
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Homeport: Lake Charles, La
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Robski97
RO# 7334
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 19:44:11
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If the units under 5 years old the refrigerant circuit is under warty under most brands . Also is the unitt the exact same btu's?
U can go online to determine the correct return size . What temp are u setting the thermostat too ? Are u closing the vberth door or in any way restricting air flow ? I can go on and on . On a new unit I would put the freon level at the bottom of the list . I would call someone in or email me and I'll go over things and u can tell me what checked . Can be as simple as the thermistor that's senses boat temp is dislodged . Also if the machine never shuts off it will start to ice up. With a cold intake water supply . Sorry the post is disorganized but u get my drift
Rob
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| 2006 44 Sundancer |
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Homeport: Merrick, NY
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bobalong
RO# 19429
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 21:14:42
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A simple way to determine correct return duct size would be to look at your evaporator. That is the part that probably has a filter in front of it, it is the part the air is sucked in to on the unit. That would be the minimum size, if the return run is only a foot or so, longer the run - larger the duct should be within reason. . .point is, it shouldn 't be any smaller than the evaporator filter dimension.
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Homeport: Sutherrrn Indianannna
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Starry Night
RO# 18025
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Posted - May 21 2012 : 22:12:01
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I agree with rduhon, It's not the refridgerant, it it the air intake. I had the same issue with my old unit years back. I changed the unit and created a 12x12 intake to give 144 square inches as needed by the manufacturer. It never would never freeze up again.
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Bob
Starry Night
2001 44' Trojan 440 Express Yacht
1985 21' Chris Craft Scorpion
2011 SeaDoo RXT 260 Jet Ski
1988 34' Carver Montego (Sold)
"Anything's gonna happen, it's gonna happen out there." Captain Ron |
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Homeport: Haverstraw Marina and Yacht Club, Haverstraw, NY
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Matt Mosbacher
RO# 47
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Posted - May 22 2012 : 07:54:43
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I had an Ocean Breeze in my 300 weekender and I needed a 12X12 return to make it work efficiently. I had two outlets. Didn't take long for the filter to get clogged either. Always worked like a charm.
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Homeport:
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Riverratt
RO# 12842
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Posted - May 22 2012 : 08:43:01
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Try setting it so the fan runs continuously
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Homeport: St Charles, Missouri
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 22 2012 : 08:47:28
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeeH
Yeah, I said 'freon' because I didn't know the new stuff is called 'R12" and I couldn't spell "refrigerant".
Me too  There is something in it that makes it cold.
I'll post some pictures of what I got going on. Like I said before the old unit had no place to draw air other than the space it sat in and it ran for 17 years. This new unit iced up the day after I installed it last summer so dirty filters isn't the problem.
rduhon...I'll try your test at lunch today
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Edited by - nwaring on May 22 2012 08:48:11 |
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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Billylll
RO# 24494
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Posted - May 22 2012 : 08:52:18
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Try opening the V birth it is under let it run and see if it ices up.
Bill
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WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J. |
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Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J.
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 22 2012 : 11:35:17
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Bill, I have left the door open...still ices.
Here is my setup.
Thermostat is out of the sun and on the opposite wall of the v-berth. I added the grill on the door. Door was solid on the old Cruiseair unit.
The old unit was top exit and the new is rear. I used the T from the old, 4" pointing down and 5" point up. I had to add some hose to the top run. I taped off the joints and the flange where the T attached. It all seems pretty air tight, little lose of air if any. I also taped off holes in the area that lead off to various areas like the anchor locker.
Both runs go down the starboard side; the 4" just comes up into a locker in the v-berth and provides air to the v-berth. The 5" line snakes out under the dinette and blows air into the galley. Both of these runs were used on the old unit.
I can still cut some hole in the storage areas on the right side and put a grill on one of those doors if you think I need more air.
Thanks
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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Billylll
RO# 24494
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Posted - May 22 2012 : 11:47:29
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Niles is that ductwork insulated or just plastic?
If you leave the grill door off and the V birth room open and it still ices, it doesn't look like a return air problem.
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WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J. |
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Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J.
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 22 2012 : 12:30:16
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Bill, all the duck work except the elbow is original and whatever they used 17 years ago it might be insulated. I will try it with the top lid off, not today though it too cold outside. The guy from Ocean Breeze wants to see the pictures. I still think it is low on refrigerant but it is hard to believe with a brand new unit.
This is the 2nd unit from OB. The first unit I got ran just fine with this duck work for about a week and something happened to the compressor. They sent me this one as a replacement. The only difference is the first one was a top exit and I just attached the duck work just like the old unit. When this replacement came it was rear exit so I had to extent the 5” with what you see in the picture.
Does anyone know if a regular refrigerator guy can check this. We don’t have anybody in marine business around here that does it.
Thanks
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Edited by - nwaring on May 22 2012 12:30:51 |
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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Capt. Bill1
RO# 2017
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Posted - May 22 2012 : 12:40:58
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A regular refrigerant guy could check it with gauges. OB should be able to walk him/her through it no big deal.
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The two most common elements on Earth are oxygen and stupidity.
Great, now take it to NBR. |
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Homeport: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
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Starry Night
RO# 18025
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 05:46:34
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Niles,
Two thing I see that indicate restricted air flow:
1. The 5 inch duct looks like it come over then in front of the air intake on the starboard side as it runs under the v- berth.
2. Air intake is facing the starboard side hull which will reduce air flow. I understand that is probably the only way it will fit in the location.
Keep the vent door open on a warm day to see if it freezes up. If it does not, then you know it is air related. If it does, then refridgerant may be needed. Remember 144 square inches of air to the front of the intake.
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Bob
Starry Night
2001 44' Trojan 440 Express Yacht
1985 21' Chris Craft Scorpion
2011 SeaDoo RXT 260 Jet Ski
1988 34' Carver Montego (Sold)
"Anything's gonna happen, it's gonna happen out there." Captain Ron |
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Homeport: Haverstraw Marina and Yacht Club, Haverstraw, NY
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 05:47:43
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The guy from OB keeps telling me I need three 4" outlets or it will freeze up. I really don't have room for another 4", maybe a 2" and run it into the head on the port side of the boat.
Where can you buy different configurations of outlet housing?
Thanks
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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gcolton
RO# 9708
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 06:54:19
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quote:
Originally posted by PascalG
i'd have someone check the pressure and refill as needed. it's not as simple as just adding gas, you need to put gauges on it and see what's going on.
You will also need the correct tables to convert the ambient temps, etc to go along with the gauge readings.
Not difficult. It is very similar to adding refrigerant to a car.
George
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Homeport: EAFB Yacht Club
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bobalong
RO# 19429
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 07:15:06
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quote:
Originally posted by gcolton
quote:
Originally posted by PascalG
i'd have someone check the pressure and refill as needed. it's not as simple as just adding gas, you need to put gauges on it and see what's going on.
You will also need the correct tables to convert the ambient temps, etc to go along with the gauge readings.
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High pressure side should be 2 1/2 times the ambient temperature.
Low side is read directly from the face of the gauge.
Not difficult. It is very similar to adding refrigerant to a car.
George
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Homeport: Sutherrrn Indianannna
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rduhon
RO# 29321
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 07:40:52
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If you leave the door or Vberth off and it still freezes up, it is either the outlet ducts or refrigerant.
I would try removing the outlet vents to give it a lil more air thru the ducts.
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Homeport: Lake Charles, La
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stmbtwle
RO# 7934
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 07:49:44
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You have what amounts to a 180 deg bend right after the fan, that's gotta hurt the air flow.
I'd be tempted to try some 4" or larger PVC fittings for duct work, they're smooth inside and should give you better flow.
Or make a plenum box to fit on the fan discharge, and run your ducts from that. The bigger the box and the more ducts you can run, the less restriction there'll be. I had to do this with my AC.
On some units you can unbolt the fan and turn it, so it points up like the old one did.
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| Willie. She's a tired old barge but she's paid for! |
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Homeport: Tampa Bay, FL
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 08:16:54
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quote:
Originally posted by rduhon
I would try removing the outlet vents to give it a lil more air thru the ducts.
That is something I can do without reengineering everything. The vents actually have lovers’ that can be closed. I'll look and see what I can do there.
Thanks
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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Billylll
RO# 24494
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 08:19:04
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Niles I had mentioned earlier about restricted flow on the cooling and heating side I think that is what you may have. The old unit may have worked fine but back when they used Freon that refrigerent gas reacted different then the current gasses used.
Bill
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WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J. |
Edited by - Billylll on May 23 2012 08:20:13 |
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Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J.
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 08:20:15
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quote:
Originally posted by stmbtwle
On some units you can unbolt the fan and turn it, so it points up like the old one did.
The first unit I got from them was a top exit and it worked fine until something broke in the compressor. I'll check and see if in fact the fan can be turned.
Thanks
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 08:26:01
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quote:
Originally posted by Billylll
Niles I had mentioned earlier about restricted flow on the cooling and heating side I think that is what you may have. The old unit may have worked fine but back when they used Freon that refrigerent gas reacted different then the current gasses used.
Bill
Thanks Bill, It really is starting to look like restricted air flow "out" is the problem
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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Robski97
RO# 7334
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 09:23:14
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The " T " right off the unit that both ducts connect to has a diverter to divert air into both ducts. See if the diverter collapsed or closed one side. Also make sure the duct at the bottom is kinked as it makes the turn. When u first start the ac unit let it run 5 mins then feel the evaporator coil . ( the cold part ) and see if its cold from the top all the way to the bottom ( uniformly ) . if it is the freon charge is not the issue . If he leaves the bed up and it doesnt ice up im thinking its that diverter T
Rob
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| 2006 44 Sundancer |
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Homeport: Merrick, NY
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 10:03:29
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Rob, that T does have divider, I'll check it. I'll also make sure there aren’t any kinks, even in areas that the pictures don't show. The 5" run comes up through a storage area in the dinette; I'll make sure something wasn't put in there and collapsed the hose.
If all that fails I am contacting OB to get a plenum box with 4” collars, plates and a 2’ collar. I think I can get a 2” run into the head. With the box I can probably eliminate the elbow that I have on top.
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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dritter
RO# 19332
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 12:23:43
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I had one freeze up and it was caused by air flow. Added two 4 inch vents and it stopped the problem!!!
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Homeport: Bay Point, Marblehead Ohio
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sabrejocky
RO# 12195
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 14:22:11
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Not sure if Steve over at marine-ac.com forum is still around but I would bet that he would tell you that your problem is your ducting, you need much larger hoses.
Run the unit with just a short piece of 6" or bigger duct sticking out of its enclosure and see if it still freezes up, my money is on not.
Cor
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"Pretty Penny"
1990 50' High Tech Euro
Wellington, Florida
You ain't much if you ain't Dutch |
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Homeport: Miami, Florida
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 14:58:54
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This whole deal may turn out to show that you just can't replace older units with modern ones, use same ducting and expect it to work…even though I did
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Edited by - nwaring on May 23 2012 14:59:21 |
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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rduhon
RO# 29321
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 16:07:32
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You can use the same size a/c. Most all have the same air flow as an old one.
The newer ones are more efficient, but BTU's are BTU's.
If you had a 12K BTU a/c, another one the same size still puts out 12K BTU.
And air flow should be the same also. If different, your efficiency will change.
Too much air flow will cause a lot of noise. Not enough air flow and you freeze up.
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Homeport: Lake Charles, La
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Robski97
RO# 7334
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Posted - May 23 2012 : 18:18:48
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Niles,
Feel the evaporator for me . LEt me know its cold from top to bottom. Does it ice up only at nite or during day? How long does it take ? Can be a combo of small issues. Did u ever verify the temp thermistor is in the right place. Lil silver bullet attached to drain pan by a clip. From ur pic its on the right side where the filter is .
Rob
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| 2006 44 Sundancer |
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Homeport: Merrick, NY
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 24 2012 : 05:39:30
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rduhon, the old one was 12k or at least it was listed as 12k. The guy from OB tells me the old unit probably only put out 8.6K, he claims his new one puts out 11.9K...whatever that means
Rob, going to the boat tonight to start the weekend. I'll check everything. It starts to ice up right away...maybe 45 minutes and everything in the front is white. Takes a couple hours to get totally iced up. I'll take more pictures and document what happens this weekend plus check out everyone’s ideas.
Thanks everyone
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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Billylll
RO# 24494
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Posted - May 24 2012 : 07:56:03
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quote:
Originally posted by Robski97
Niles,
Feel the evaporator for me . LEt me know its cold from top to bottom. Does it ice up only at nite or during day? How long does it take ? Can be a combo of small issues. Did u ever verify the temp thermistor is in the right place. Lil silver bullet attached to drain pan by a clip. From ur pic its on the right side where the filter is .
Rob
+1 Rob,
I agree it is probably a couple of small things causing this. But the cold hand test on the evaporator is a good place to start. After low refrigerent is ruled out it's probably air flow.
Niles let us know what you find.
Bill
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WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J. |
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Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J.
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rduhon
RO# 29321
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Posted - May 24 2012 : 09:25:33
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Check your squirrel cage for cardboard shipping brackets.
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Homeport: Lake Charles, La
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Laissez-Faire
RO# 32833
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Posted - May 24 2012 : 17:08:11
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I pulled some of my old ac manuals, they state that a 90 degree duct turn is equal to addt'l 10 feet of ducting, I agree with others, air flow is the issue
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Homeport: Chattanooga, Tn
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Billylll
RO# 24494
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Posted - May 24 2012 : 17:35:05
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That (90 degree bends) and what seems to be uninsulated plastic ductwork will certainly cut down on the AC unit's ability to cool the boat. I know because my AC units were the same 1993 units that came with the boat. The factory used too few vents, the wrong sized ductwork and the air returns were too small. Also the previous owner had either crushed some of the ducts or replaced it with Blower type hose/ducts.
The Salon unit only had (1) 6" duct to cool or heat a large area. I replaced the (2) old 16k btu units with 2 circa 2007-08 new modern 16k BTU reverse air (MarineAirr) units with the digital controls and until I fixed all of the above I couldn't get the Salon temperatures down on a hot day and both units would freeze up every 15 to 30 minutes of running. I also had a power problem(AC)voltage sag on the Salon unit which was eventually traced to a corroded main AC main breaker. With my new units once they freeze the unit goes into heat mode to thaw itself which creates a blast of hot air. This was definately an adventure correcting all the various problems.
Bill
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WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J. |
Edited by - Billylll on May 24 2012 17:58:52 |
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Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J.
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 25 2012 : 12:38:47
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First off, thanks everyone your feedback.
When I got to the boat last night I opened up everything, the top cover and the front door. I started the unit, it showed 77 on the stat and I set it to 73. After 25 minutes it started to ice a little on the coils, at 35 minutes it had brought down the temp to 73 and turned off. So it didn’t run long enough to really ice up but this weekend it will get a good test.
OB is going to send me the parts to do another run and maybe reconfigure the current a little. I have room to do a 4” through the bottom of the v-berth lockers, into and through the vanity in the head and into the base cabinets in the galley and exit pointing toward the dinette. In the attached picture I have marked where the current 5” exits and the proposed 4” will be.
Is there any problem having 2 vents somewhat in the same area?
Thanks and everyone have a great\safe holiday weekend
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Edited by - nwaring on May 25 2012 12:40:34 |
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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nwaring
RO# 16045
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Posted - May 25 2012 : 12:45:33
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Rob, Bill, rduhon
The coils feel about the same top to bottom. The two current runs length is 6' for the one in the v-berth and the run going to the galley with the 90 bend is 10' long. I can't see where the temp thermistor is. I am going to assume it is on the inside of the drip pan and out od site. The divider in the current T is ok. I'll try and insulate the plastic part of the 5" run somehow. I don't see and packaging material left anywhere.
Niles
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"Interlude"
87 Mainship 36DC
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Edited by - nwaring on May 26 2012 05:19:43 |
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Homeport: Ashtabula Oh - Lake Erie
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rduhon
RO# 29321
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Posted - May 25 2012 : 19:06:58
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If it was cold all the way to the top, it is full of freon.
It seems like air flow may be the problem.
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Homeport: Lake Charles, La
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Billylll
RO# 24494
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Posted - May 26 2012 : 06:37:46
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There will not be any problem runing 2 additional vents to the locations you show Niles. I think your finally on to the crab as is often said in Deadliest Catch.
The least amount of 90 degree bends possible is the way to go, bends restrict flow and create back pressure. There are 45 degree Y's and bends available.
To bad the ductwork isn't insulated it's not a killer but it helps with condensation and cooling the boat faster.
Bill
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WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J. |
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Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J.
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Topic |
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Air conditioner freezes up
