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 Leaky raw water pump
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Author Previous Topic: Bilge pump fuses blowing Topic Next Topic: Ruko Impeller Puller  

Mule

RO# 7719

Posted - Jul 14 2012 :  19:38:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The raw water pump, Crusader (RA057026), is leaking on my port engine. The leak is not bad yet but probably will get worse.
Should I buy a new pump or can it be rebuilt?
I've seen some parts available for it but its for the Sherwood pump. Not sure the parts are the same or interchangeable.
Going on vacation next friday and need to do something quick!
The only thing that stays the same is the constant state of change!
2003 Cruisers 3275
Hip Nautic
Lyle

Homeport: Tacoma, Wa

JimPend

RO# 5022



Posted - Jul 14 2012 :  19:45:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No info. here, is it the bearing, or the gasket.

Jim P.

Homeport: Port Clinton, OH Go to Top of Page

Mule

RO# 7719

Posted - Jul 14 2012 :  19:46:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Don't know...
How can you tell?
Water is dripping from the shaft.


The only thing that stays the same is the constant state of change!
2003 Cruisers 3275
Hip Nautic
Lyle

Homeport: Tacoma, Wa Go to Top of Page

JimPend

RO# 5022



Posted - Jul 14 2012 :  20:12:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If it from the shaft likely the bearing seal. It might last or it might not. Can't say anything else about it. I know where to get the part here, there I don't, in a hurry get a new pump.

Jim P.

Homeport: Port Clinton, OH Go to Top of Page

Billylll

RO# 24494

Posted - Jul 14 2012 :  22:20:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I would replace it if you aren't sure which part of the pump is bad. If you have twins there is a good possibility the other side isn't far behind it.
Bill


WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J.

Homeport: Tuckerton, N.J. Go to Top of Page

Sandy

RO# 1159

Posted - Jul 15 2012 :  00:28:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What you have IS a Sherwood pump, #P105 I believe, if it's the small-block crank-mount pump. Even though if you look hard enough the Sherwood or one of it's distributors' shows a diagram for the P-series pumps as being relatively easily rebuilt, not so with the P105 model which does not seem to have a removable or easily removable wear plate at the back of the impeller so instead of snap rings to to release the shaft, everything has to be pressed out ,likely damaging the shaft. On one of mine that was recently replaced, I couldn't press it out or knock it out just to see if it could be done.

I replace those crank mount pumps with new every time they start leaking. . Which on mine is <= 2 yrs. And I try to keep 2 new ones on hand, painted Cru-blue and ready .

With a quick search you should be able to find them for $174 + ship. The same place will also sell your the EXACT same unpainted pump with a Crusader # in a Crusader box for a whole lot more. Check Boatfix and the net , you might do even a little better.

I'll just note once again , while you have the pump out, it would be a good idea to pull off the suction side hose to the pump inlet from the oil cooler and inspect the spring-coil hose support inside. I have found on both my Crusaders that support coil corrodes & disintegrates into very small metal pieces that are sometimes the cause of the pump leak. You then have to replace the whole hose not just the coil-spring, ( and the pump). The pump is the same for both RH and LH engines but that hose is a little longer on the LH tunring engine and the part # is not on the regular parts list.

Also, I highly recommend considering installing a spare new belt inside the pump bracket and carefully securing it with cable ties clear out of the way of moving parts . If you lose a belt at sea some dark & lumpy night, you will be really glad it's there to greatly reduce replacement time & painful effort in poor conditions .

When they leak, I don't run up higher than medium idle before replacing, as it can distribute (salt?) water on the engine, alternator and other valuable engine room items.


Sandy

Homeport: The Vineyard Go to Top of Page

PascalG

RO# 12212



Posted - Jul 15 2012 :  07:42:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Check the price of a new pump vs rebuild kit. May not be worth the hassle if you have never done and may not have the right tools. What I usually do is get a new one the first time and get the old one rebuilt and keep as a spare. Works well with smaller pumps like gennies and gas engines, obviously a costly option on big pumps...

Pascal
1970 Hatteras 53 MY
26' Starfish sloop
12' Westphal Catboat
16' Hobie Cat
13' Sandbarhopper

Homeport: Miami, FL Go to Top of Page

Mule

RO# 7719

Posted - Jul 15 2012 :  11:40:39  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys...
Good to know about the rebuild options.
The pump is actually the original Crusader pump! And has been working drip free for nearly nine years. So, I guess I've been lucky (although, it doesn't feel like it!).
I removed the pump this morning and will look to replace it with the possiblity of rebuilding it when I return from vacation.
I will check the hoses and I like the belt idea too.
The Sherwood pump is less expensive but was I just lucky on my pumps or is the quality that much less with the Sherwood?
Appreciate the help!


The only thing that stays the same is the constant state of change!
2003 Cruisers 3275
Hip Nautic
Lyle

Homeport: Tacoma, Wa Go to Top of Page
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