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jmeirhofer
RO# 30972
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 Posted - Jul 17 2012 : 05:14:56
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How often should these be changed and how difficult is it to do?
One of my transmissions as a leak from the seal of a few drops a day when it is running so I plan to pull the shaft and replace it next spring before commissioning. I was thinking since I am pulling one I might as well do both and eliminate it needing to be done to the other later.
I also figured since I had them off I would send the shafts out to make sure they are true. While there are out replace the dripless shaft seals which are no doubt original to 1997 as well. Is it that difficult to replace the bushings in the shaft through hull and struts? How often should this be done? Is it a great expense or a difficult task? I am thinking of doing the rudder shafts at that time too. I know what the shaft size is, but am not sure how to determine the OD of the bushings.
I will likely start gathering parts this fall and over winter. I will need a new coat of bottom paint by then too so the boat should be out of the water for a bit.
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John
1997 Trojan 440 Express
"Son, I've got a very low bull$*%t tolerance" -- Pancho Carter
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Homeport: Baltimore, MD
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boatbum
RO# 36
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Posted - Jul 17 2012 : 09:18:34
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When you haul the boat, hang on the shaft and try to rattle it. Try to spin the props they should rotate relatively easily and with the same amount of effort. Don't wait, as they will dry up and you will not get a warm fuzzy for the overall health of the drive line.
Before removing the shafts stick a dial indicator on them at the prop, hull entrance and perhaps mid shaft. If they are true why bother sending them out? If you do remove them completely make sure you stamp the ends of the shafts appropriately with a P and S because they may have a slightly different length. With your size boat I would send the props out for a tune up if you have not done this for several years. Make sure you get a prop-scan report and work with a legit outfit that has computer balancing and measuring.
With the right tools, and some here have made them from pipe and threaded rod, the bearings will slide out and back in. If they do not go in easily something got bent along the line. But you will need the tool to install them as well. I froze ours a couple of days prior to installation.
Shouldered struts can be a pita in particular if the aft strut is shouldered because you cannot slide the forward strut's bearing through the aft strut and that forces shaft removal.
As far as frequency? Freedom is a 1985 with about 2000 hours, and we just had her bottom done. The yard said they were fine.
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| It's easy to be a liberal when you have tons of cash, or, you really need it. |
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Homeport:
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pdecat
RO# 842
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Posted - Jul 17 2012 : 10:14:10
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the bearings never seem easy, special tools work best though I have done them the hard way. Call the prop shop they might just measure the shadft on site. bb is correct yank the shaft in a few directions, it should not move much.
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Bruce
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Homeport: Gulf Coast FL
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PascalG
RO# 12212
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Posted - Jul 17 2012 : 10:39:46
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When you haul out have the yard check the shaft with a dial indicator and then decide if they need work or not. Same with the cutlass bearings, if no play is observed after haul out, leave them alone
As to props, considering the costs I m not a big fan of getting them worked on if there is no vibration.
It s fine line between preventive maintenance and the old "if it ain't broke don't fix it" :)
And don't forget NEW part stands for Never Ever Worked
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Pascal
1970 Hatteras 53 MY
26' Starfish sloop
12' Westphal Catboat
16' Hobie Cat
13' Sandbarhopper
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Edited by - PascalG on Jul 17 2012 10:40:48 |
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Homeport: Miami, FL
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KiDa
RO# 16492
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Posted - Jul 17 2012 : 11:26:09
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If you need new cutlass bearings, here are a couple of alternatives to the current design. I have no dog in either fight.
http: //shaftsaver . com / shaftsaver . htm
http:// www . evolutionmarine . com/
(remove the spaces)
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____________
Best Regards,
David
Saint Max
'99 330 Sundancer
==========
Capitalism is to this administration what Judaism was to the Third Reich.
-- Me |
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Homeport: Hopewell, VA
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jmeirhofer
RO# 30972
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Posted - Jul 17 2012 : 12:42:18
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Pascal - It has been a long time since I had heard that phrase. My grand father used to say it all the time though.
I agree if they are good, no need to change them. I just was not sure what the life expectancy is. I like to get things done right the first time and only do major projects once. I am getting my spare props propscanned and tuned this fall when I have some time. Those will go on the boat in the spring.
As for vibration. I do not feel any out of the ordinary vibration. But that does not mean the shafts are true. Doing the screwdriver test on the shafts will my wife drives did not yield anything noticable either. That being said, there may be a vibration that I just do not realize because it has been that way since day one. I need to change the trans seals anyway so I thought it would be a good time. However, if the dial indicator does not indicate the need, I guess then I do not need to do anything with them.
Thanks for all of the suggestions. Likely has saved me a whole lot of heart ache and back ache.
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John
1997 Trojan 440 Express
"Son, I've got a very low bull$*%t tolerance" -- Pancho Carter
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Homeport: Baltimore, MD
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Shaft and strut bushings
