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 Replacing the hot water tank relief valve
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Author Previous Topic: Looking to buy a used 23 foot bunk trailer Topic Next Topic: Source for screens  

Carvervirgin

RO# 32836

Posted - Sep 05 2013 :  09:26:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I need to replace the relief valve on my HW heater. It has a constant drip and is probably over it's useful life. I did look back at some previous threads but was wondering if there is any advice on this seemingly simple task. I have been burned before (pun intended) and always appreciate the forum's input. It is a seaward 11 gallon tank and the boat is 12 years old. Thanks
Bucket List, 2001Carver 356
Lake Champlain, Vermont



Homeport:

pdecat

RO# 842



Posted - Sep 05 2013 :  10:07:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If it is heated by engine coolant it needs a high temp unit . if electric only a standard home unit will work. Look for a rating tag onthr unit. Sometimes just releasing the pressure a few times will flush it out


Bruce



Homeport: Gulf Coast FL Go to Top of Page

Double D

RO# 10727

Posted - Sep 05 2013 :  10:22:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I recently had a drip from my relief valve on an Atwood water heater. After changing the valve it continued to drip......it turned out to be a failed thermostat. The thermostat never shut down at the set temp....and the unit built up excess heat/pressure and forced the valve to relieve. Changed the thermostat and all was fine.

-------------------------------------

Edited by - Double D on Sep 05 2013 10:23:54

Homeport: Summer..anywhere we want. Winter...sunny Florida Go to Top of Page

cjeccher

RO# 32109



Posted - Sep 05 2013 :  11:09:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Had a similar situation on my home water heater. I replaced the T &P (temp and pressure) valve on water heater but the new one dripped too. Tested my incoming water pressure and it was too high so I changed the PRV on water main and that solved the problem. A Reminder that it's never easy and not always what it appears to be.


Homeport: Lake Powell, UT Go to Top of Page

rapscallion

RO# 31236

Posted - Sep 05 2013 :  11:28:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I replaced the TP valve on my boat's Raritan 12 gal electric water heater last season. Make sure the heater is off at the breaker and the water is cool. Shut off the water at the tank, or the city water inlet, and shut off the pump. Depressuize the system by running some hot water through a faucet or two. The existing valve just unscrews off. Water will gush out if you haven't drained the tank. Teflon tape on the new valve. Screw it on hand tight. Turn everything back on and repressurize the system. Let the tank heat up. Run some hot water through all faucets. Check for leaks.

It was a fairly simple job on my boat. The heater has been performing great for over a year now.

Good luck with your project.



Homeport: Ladner, British Columbia Go to Top of Page

Jim Carter

RO# 2818

Posted - Sep 05 2013 :  18:38:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
When you are at the water-heater, you may also want to check the "sacrificial anode" to see if it needs replacing.


Jim Carter
"The Boat"
Georgian Bay

Homeport: Georgian Bay, Ontario Go to Top of Page

lobsta1

RO# 1808

Posted - Sep 05 2013 :  20:06:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I remember Vic from Raritan saying NOT to use a home type T&P valve in a marine heater. That was due to the fact that the home type T&P's relief is set for 150 psi & that pressure was to high for the typical water lines on a boat.
Al


1978 Bertram 33

Homeport: Beverly,Ma Go to Top of Page

Carvervirgin

RO# 32836

Posted - Sep 05 2013 :  22:04:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys for the help. Where is the anode located? Where do you get replacement ones?

Bucket List, 2001Carver 356
Lake Champlain, Vermont



Homeport: Go to Top of Page

Jim Carter

RO# 2818

Posted - Sep 06 2013 :  05:53:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Your Hot Water heater may not have an Anode to protect against galvanic corrosion. What is the model number?
or...check the parts book for your heater. http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/siteFiles/resources/docs/resource-library/SeawardInstructions/75545_WaterHeaters.pdf


Jim Carter
"The Boat"
Georgian Bay

Homeport: Georgian Bay, Ontario Go to Top of Page

rapscallion

RO# 31236

Posted - Sep 06 2013 :  22:43:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The anode is typically affixed to the hot water outlet, inside the tank. That's where it is on my Raritan heater. I believe it's there on Seaward heater too.


Homeport: Ladner, British Columbia Go to Top of Page

Danno

RO# 10045

Posted - Sep 07 2013 :  08:18:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It may be the high temp sensor on the unit, I have had mine go in the past and am ready to do it again. There are 2 signs that may help determine if it is the sensor or relief valve. if you have the engine loop on the tank, shut the power to the tank and run only off of the engine water- if it continues to leak then it is a faulty valve, if not then it is most likely the high temp sensor(limit switch). Another sign would be if you have noticed any change in the temperature of the hot water from the faucets and if the water is hotter than normal.

Good Luck!


Nic-Nac

Homeport: oceanside, NY Go to Top of Page

Carvervirgin

RO# 32836

Posted - Sep 07 2013 :  20:22:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jim, the model number is S-1200-E. sorry to be so ignorant on this but how do I know if there is an engine loop on the system. I always assumed that it was just an electrical powered unit. John

Bucket List, 2001Carver 356
Lake Champlain, Vermont



Homeport: Go to Top of Page

32carv

RO# 24150



Posted - Sep 07 2013 :  21:16:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Your boat probably came with the engine loop on the system. Unless someone altered it, it is there. To verify that it there, look at the tank. There is always cold water coming in and hot water going out. If have the loop there will be another set of hoses, one coming in from one of your motors and one going back.
Jim



Homeport: Sacandaga Lake Go to Top of Page

Jim Carter

RO# 2818

Posted - Sep 08 2013 :  07:46:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The unit with model number S-1200-E does not come with an anode. ( according to the parts list )


Jim Carter
"The Boat"
Georgian Bay

Homeport: Georgian Bay, Ontario Go to Top of Page
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