BoaterEd Store      - Help Support This Forum - Join Today!      Hunting/Fishing Stuff
BoaterEd
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register

Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Avatar Legend | Statistics
[ Active Members: 5 | Guests: 192 ]  [ Total: 197 ]  [ Newest Member: Rleemorris ]
 All Forums
 Forums
 Engines, Electric, Plumbing, etc.
 Removing old Thunderbolt ing for new
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: Cummins parts source Topic Next Topic: Electricians?  Stray current- Conclusion  

Prostjim

RO# 33628

Posted - Jul 13 2014 :  20:27:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Has any one removed there ign and installed a aftermarket unit. I done with the thunderbolt. It starts right up when cold the as soon as it's hot won't or very hard to start. Last time out just shut off. So I'm looking to install a aftermarket maybe Davis HEI type system. Has anyone done this or any other switch with good success? Thanks Jimmy

Homeport: Pa

waybomb

RO# 4563

Posted - Jul 14 2014 :  20:30:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Are you sure it's the ignition?
I have TBIV on all Plain Vanilla's 3 572 cu in blown engines with no problems whatsoever.

Maybe you have a carburetor issue leaking gas into the manifold? Maybe some vapor-lock? Nad grounds?

Send me your email addy - I can send you some troubleshooting guides for TBIV and V.


Thanks Fred
1988 46'Cougar, 3x572 blown
1987 36 Carver Mariner
1969 Glaspar Avalon
1964 Barron Flatbottom BBC
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y145/waybomb/

Homeport: Saint Joseph, MI Go to Top of Page

jtybt15

RO# 3300



Posted - Jul 15 2014 :  00:54:28  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I was also wondering why you came to the conclusion that your problem is the ignition or even electrical. I think it would be prudent to isolate the cause or if you have, tell us what it was.
Lots of us RO's like to fix things rather than replace things willy nilly. (Gee, that's the first time I ever used that phrase)





Charlie

There is much to be said, in a world like ours, for taking the world as you find it and fishing with a worm.-Bliss Perry, 1904



Homeport: Ca Go to Top of Page

Prostjim

RO# 33628

Posted - Jul 16 2014 :  18:18:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well today a mechanic came over and found broken and some burnt wires. After changing all this new dist with module and rotor,new ing amplifier, started right up adjusted the timing and as soon as it got hot won't start. The gas has been in there since last year and I can honestly say I don't know if it had stabilizer in it. Also new plugs and cap and rotor also. Any suggestions? Fuel pump has 6 lbs of pressure. And when it's cold starts right up. And also a new Msd black coil. Thanks Jimmy


Homeport: Pa Go to Top of Page

waybomb

RO# 4563

Posted - Jul 16 2014 :  19:04:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Is it the correct coil - built in resistor?

Thanks Fred
1988 46'Cougar, 3x572 blown
1987 36 Carver Mariner
1969 Glaspar Avalon
1964 Barron Flatbottom BBC
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y145/waybomb/

Homeport: Saint Joseph, MI Go to Top of Page

Prostjim

RO# 33628

Posted - Jul 16 2014 :  20:42:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
He says that's the coil he uses all the time and no problems what's so ever.


Homeport: Pa Go to Top of Page

jtybt15

RO# 3300



Posted - Jul 16 2014 :  21:09:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
TB ign doesn't use a resistor. It runs on full 12V. If that coil has an internal resistor, that's one of your problems.

If the problem isn't a bad coil or alternator, it's gotta be fuel related. What's the time frame between start-up and engine quit. Is it always the same?

Check your oil. Check engine temp.





Charlie

There is much to be said, in a world like ours, for taking the world as you find it and fishing with a worm.-Bliss Perry, 1904



Homeport: Ca Go to Top of Page

Prostjim

RO# 33628

Posted - Jul 17 2014 :  05:35:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No not really same time. I did pull the alt couple weeks ago and took it to get checked and they said it was charging ok. This is driving me nuts. I have another alt that I could put on that I know is a good one. Once it gets hot it won't start. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to start. But doesn't. Then kills batt. We did put volt meter on it when it wouldn't star yesterday and it read 12.8 at the coil.


Homeport: Pa Go to Top of Page

Prostjim

RO# 33628

Posted - Jul 17 2014 :  05:38:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
And when it won't star and I look in the carb I have a squirt of fuel every time I hit throttle. And even sprayed a little starting fluid and nothing. No start. Thanks for trying to help. Jimmy


Homeport: Pa Go to Top of Page

jtybt15

RO# 3300



Posted - Jul 17 2014 :  11:51:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
First, where were the burnt wires and what were they connected to??

FIND OUT ABOUT THAT COIL!!!

You have to help with responses to our inquiries. An internal resistor in the coil will get very hot and quit in a thunderbolt ignition system.!!!

Testing a cold alt for charging only tells you only that it's charging when cold. Swapping out the alt is a good start in eliminating possible causes.

...and we need to know about the burnt wires.





Charlie

There is much to be said, in a world like ours, for taking the world as you find it and fishing with a worm.-Bliss Perry, 1904



Homeport: Ca Go to Top of Page

waybomb

RO# 4563

Posted - Jul 17 2014 :  18:49:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Primary side should be between 0.6 and 0.8 ohms

Secondary side should be between 9,400 and 11,700 ohms.





Thanks Fred
1988 46'Cougar, 3x572 blown
1987 36 Carver Mariner
1969 Glaspar Avalon
1964 Barron Flatbottom BBC
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y145/waybomb/

Homeport: Saint Joseph, MI Go to Top of Page

Prostjim

RO# 33628

Posted - Jul 17 2014 :  20:12:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The two ground wires on the ing amplifier were a little burnt and the plug was broken and the amplifier was also broken. Let me know if there is anything else I should be telling you. Thanks Jimmy


Homeport: Pa Go to Top of Page

jtybt15

RO# 3300



Posted - Jul 18 2014 :  04:40:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Burnt wires in and around the ECM means there's a short somewhere....or maybe the alternators voltage regulator isn't working right.

The thunderbolt ignition system works great once you have it set up right.

The modules can go bad, too. I've had to replace mine and I got a couple extras with different advance curves. Depending on the model, Some advance can't be set at the '3000 RPM' mark. The advance curve is built in and can't be adjusted.

You'll have to review the specs on different modules. It's been a while since I did. The model number is on the lower corner. There's a number which indicates the total amount of advance built into the module. say it has a 24. Set the modules advance of 24* plus 6* to get a total advance of 30* at 3000 RPM. This will give you an initial (idle) advance of the 6*

Total advance is set at 3000 RPM
A total advance of 28* is for 87 octane
Total advance of 30* is for 89 octane
Total advance of 32* is for 91 octane

These numbers are for naturally aspirated engines with 9:1 compression or less.

This site may give you a little more info in the TB ign system though they have some timing number off.

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?416610-Thunderbolt-IV-replacement





Charlie

There is much to be said, in a world like ours, for taking the world as you find it and fishing with a worm.-Bliss Perry, 1904



Homeport: Ca Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic: Cummins parts source Topic Next Topic: Electricians?  Stray current- Conclusion  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Jump To:
BoaterEd © BoaterEd Go To Top Of Page
This page took 0.39 seconds to load
Forum Guidelines and Privacy Notice

    

Boatered.com