BoaterEd Store      - Help Support This Forum - Join Today!      Hunting/Fishing Stuff
BoaterEd
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register

Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Avatar Legend | Statistics
[ Active Members: 3 | Guests: 123 ]  [ Total: 126 ]  [ Newest Member: nancyeliza ]
 All Forums
 Clubs - Organized Clubs, Cruises and Activities
 Sea Ray Owners
 Fall winterization checklist - Diesels
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: Type of oil, filter and transmission oil Topic Next Topic: Safety Cord  

BVasily

RO# 18136



Posted - Sep 22 2014 :  08:01:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Has anyone gone to the effort of writing up a comprehensive winterization check-list and/or engine service checklist?
Bob V.
Seeleys Bay, Ontario, Canada

Homeport: Kingston, Ontario

HOGAN

RO# 3813



Posted - Sep 22 2014 :  08:45:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Change oil & filters. Send oil samples out of analysis. change fuel filters. Stabilize fuel in tank. Run five gallons of pink through engine. DONE

_________________________


1999 Trojan 440 Express
2005 Scout 175 Sportfish

MMSI# 338049724




Surly to bed, surly to rise...

Homeport: Haverstraw Marina, Haverstraw, NY Go to Top of Page

Robyns Nest

RO# 4846

Posted - Sep 22 2014 :  12:12:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My motors need more than 5 gallons. Run the pink thru until you see heavy pink coming out the exhaust or where ever the sea water goes.

Some recommend changing the filters in the spring. Toss the funky filter out at the start of the season.


__________________________________________________
2003 56 Post Convertible 2x1300HP V12 MAN
2018 30' Sea Hunt Gamefish 2x300HP Yamahas
--------------------------------------------------------
"The future ain't what is used to be."
- Yogi Berra

Edited by - Robyns Nest on Sep 22 2014 14:41:06

Homeport: Monmouth Beach NJ Go to Top of Page

Robski97

RO# 7334

Posted - Sep 22 2014 :  14:54:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Always change the filter before u put her to sleep. Everything nice and CLEAN. NEVER wait til spring !

Rob


2006 44 Sundancer

Homeport: Merrick, NY Go to Top of Page

Robyns Nest

RO# 4846

Posted - Sep 22 2014 :  15:29:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If you pull filters first thing in the spring you have the freshest filters for your season. Your new filters you put on in the fall have 5-6 months to get funky.

__________________________________________________
2003 56 Post Convertible 2x1300HP V12 MAN
2018 30' Sea Hunt Gamefish 2x300HP Yamahas
--------------------------------------------------------
"The future ain't what is used to be."
- Yogi Berra

Homeport: Monmouth Beach NJ Go to Top of Page

boatbum

RO# 36

Posted - Sep 24 2014 :  07:57:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If you are going to change the filters twice, once at lay up and once at launch ok.

I always change the filters when I change the oil. They hold too much old oil for me to be comfortable with leaving them in over Winter. By the way, ALWAYS fill your filters with clean oil before installing them and running the engine.
Normally I will run the boat a little after an oil change to wash things down a bit with the fresh oil before a layup.


As far as general Winterization goes, if you google that up with this site I know I/we have discussed blowing out the plumbing with air a number of times.
Heads get potable AF and flushed several times, pump out and rinse a couple of times, fridges are left ajar or closed with baking soda box in each compartment, down South I leave a dehumidifier running with an over the side discharge, all sinks get potable AF until it flows over the side, AC system raw water gets blown out, genny same as main engines, check batteries.




Edited by - boatbum on Sep 24 2014 08:04:49

Homeport: Go to Top of Page

BVasily

RO# 18136



Posted - Sep 24 2014 :  08:04:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I appreciate everyone's advice here. I will change up filters together with oil as part of the fall winterization process. Boat is stored in heated indoor storage but I will drain the water system and run some anti-freeze non the less. There are a number of other items I need to identify and sort out. Steering wheel looks to have an oil port etc. I will eventually get used to this new to me 420 DA but sure don't want to miss anything important.

Bob V.
Seeleys Bay, Ontario, Canada

Homeport: Kingston, Ontario Go to Top of Page

Robyns Nest

RO# 4846

Posted - Sep 24 2014 :  08:47:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My comments are directed at fuel filters. Not oil.

__________________________________________________
2003 56 Post Convertible 2x1300HP V12 MAN
2018 30' Sea Hunt Gamefish 2x300HP Yamahas
--------------------------------------------------------
"The future ain't what is used to be."
- Yogi Berra

Homeport: Monmouth Beach NJ Go to Top of Page

CurrentSea

RO# 10265



Posted - Sep 24 2014 :  08:59:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kind of hard to fill with oil on some motors where the filters are mounted on top.
Don't attempt!

Mine are.


2009 Regal 4080
Volvo Diesel IPS

Homeport: Anchorage YC - Lindenhurst, NY Go to Top of Page

HOGAN

RO# 3813



Posted - Sep 24 2014 :  09:26:51  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
the "oil port" at the steering wheel is most likely for hydraulic fluid. To top it off, turn the wheel back and forth as you add fluid.

I recommend just blowing out the fresh water system with compressed air, rather than adding pink. Get a fitting to attach to the fresh water intake and connect to compressor. Open each faucet, starting with the one closest to the compressor until nothing but air comes out. I installed a bypass on my water heater, I bypass it, and drain it. If you run pink through it, you will use at least 6 - 8 gallons, and it is a pain in the butt to flush it all out in the spring.

Not sure what engines you have, but I get my OEM Cummins filters on-line at "Filterbarn.com" - they are much cheaper than anywhere else.

For my air conditioners, I blow compressed air through the hull drains (backwards to normal flow) until nothing but air comes out the intake.


_________________________


1999 Trojan 440 Express
2005 Scout 175 Sportfish

MMSI# 338049724




Surly to bed, surly to rise...

Homeport: Haverstraw Marina, Haverstraw, NY Go to Top of Page

BVasily

RO# 18136



Posted - Sep 24 2014 :  09:40:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
great advice. Thank you. Engines are Cummins 450C. What about transmissions?

Bob V.
Seeleys Bay, Ontario, Canada

Homeport: Kingston, Ontario Go to Top of Page

HOGAN

RO# 3813



Posted - Sep 24 2014 :  09:55:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have the same engines, they are great. Have serviced the aftercoolers?

What transmissions? I change the oil in my ZF vee drives every couple hundred hours. The OEM filters are crazy expensive, there is a Fleetguard replacement that is reasonable. There is also a screen filter that should be taken out and cleaned once a year - it is not replaced, but you need the gaskets for it.


_________________________


1999 Trojan 440 Express
2005 Scout 175 Sportfish

MMSI# 338049724




Surly to bed, surly to rise...

Homeport: Haverstraw Marina, Haverstraw, NY Go to Top of Page

Robyns Nest

RO# 4846

Posted - Sep 24 2014 :  12:55:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You don't have to bypass the water heater if you use compressed air.

__________________________________________________
2003 56 Post Convertible 2x1300HP V12 MAN
2018 30' Sea Hunt Gamefish 2x300HP Yamahas
--------------------------------------------------------
"The future ain't what is used to be."
- Yogi Berra

Homeport: Monmouth Beach NJ Go to Top of Page

CurrentSea

RO# 10265



Posted - Sep 24 2014 :  13:28:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ok here are 2 different lists I have.
Everyone has a list of their own!
These are 2 I got from others, I do it from memory, though I probably should use a list!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Plumbing

Water Heater
The hot water heater is nothing more than a big tank with an electric element in it to heat the water. There is a drain, a cold-water INPUT and a hot water OUTPUT. Cruisers Yachts uses ¡§Quick Connects¡¨ to attach the hoses.

Most RV places sell Water Heater By-Pass kits. Get one. This basically ties the cold and hot system tubes together and by-passes the whole hot-water heater. The by-pass installs at the inlet/outlet of the heater and uses diverters to ¡§cross-over¡¨. You want to drain every drop from the heater, but it is recommended that you NOT waste 6 gallons of ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ to fill the heater.

1. Obtain/Install a Water Heater By-Pass Kit (RV places have them)

Note: These kits allow you to by-pass the water heater to keep pressure in the system. They are about $30 and well worth it. Buy it, install it, and forget it. If you don¡¦t, you should fill your water heater with 6+ gallons of ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨. You¡¦ll never get all the ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ out. Don¡¦t do it.

2. Turn off the power to the water heater. Mark it, so you don¡¦t turn it on when the heater is empty, and zap the heating element.

3. Drain the water heater in to the bilge and leave the drain valve open

Fresh Water System (Pump and Fixtures)

1. Drain all the water from your fresh-water tank and shut the pump off (fresh water breaker)

2. Pull the seat cushions from the aft cabin (access, ya know)

3. Disassemble the feed from the water tank to the pump (under port-side seat)

4. Clean out the water filter there, and make sure it's dry

5. Attach a length of hose to the intake of the pump

6. Stick the hose in to a jug of "Pink Stuff"

7. Get Ginny to watch and have a few of extra gallons opened and ready. I¡¦ve done this myself with a big bucket with 3 gallons of ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ in it.

8. Turn on the pump.

Note: When you do, the ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ gets sucked up in to the pump and is ready to be dispersed through the system

9. Start with the shower (furthest away from pump) and run each fixture until ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ comes out.

Note: Ginny will be swapping bottle of ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ at a high rate of speed!

10. Don't forget fresh-water wash-downs (we don¡¦t do fresh-water washdowns here in Colorado, but we do do RAW water ¡V see below). Cockpit wet-bar, and anything that is fed from the fresh-water system.

11. Once you¡¦ve run every fresh-water fixture in the boat, the system is loaded with ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨, and won¡¦t freeze.

12. Almost done! Leave the ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ connected!
Head

1. Visit the pump out and empty your holding tank. Rinse it out several times with a garden hose and get as much goop out as possible. Suck it dry!

2. With the ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ still hooked up, flush the head a few times until ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ flows. It¡¦s actually GOOD to flush the ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ ¡V it lubricates the duck valves, vacuum pump, macerator and all other internal components. And of course, keeps things from freezing.

3. My head has a ball valve for the water intake. I wouldn¡¦t bother closing it, but I don¡¦t see harm in doing so.

4. Leave some ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ in the bowl

Note: In the winter, you can (in a pinch) use the head. Just pour in the ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨, do your business, and flush. Do NOT turn on the fresh water system. Emergencies only!

Sea Cocks

It¡¦s important to clear all the water out of your Sea Cocks, which are nothing more than marine-grade ball-valves. If a cock breaks, you¡¦re boat could sink. That¡¦s worse than this simple procedure. Which we call ¡§Blowing your cocks¡¨. A quick note: If I were a salt-water guy, I¡¦d replace every hose-clamp I could find¡Kevery year. Use TWO Marine Grade stainless clamps for every connection below the water line.

1. Close all your Sea Cocks

2. Disconnect all hoses from your Sea Cocks

3. Connect a temporary hose to each Sea Cock

4. Stick the hose in your mouth, and BLOW (nothing happens)

5. While blowing, open the cock, and you¡¦ll hear bubbles under your boat ¡V this is good. Don¡¦t stop blowing!

6. Keep blowing and close the cock.

7. Done!

Genny

A generator is just an engine that has a mag attached to it¡K.but it¡¦s water cooled (raw-water in most cases). You want to change the oil and flush the cooling system with ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨.

Since you¡¦ve disconnected the raw-water Sea Cock (above), the cooling for the genny is not there... You¡¦re going to replace it (temporarily, of course) with ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨. You don¡¦t want to run the genny for more than a few seconds¡Kbut the water pump will suck up ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ and shoot it over the side.

1. Clean out your sea strainer

2. Fill the sea-strainer with ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨

3. Attach a temporary hose to the inlet side of the strainer

4. Stick it in a bottle of ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨.

5. Start the genny, and have Ginny watch the thru hull

6. When ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ comes out, you¡¦re done.

7. Don¡¦t forget to change the oil, filter, etc.

8. Done!

Engines, Raw-Water Cooling, Power Steering

Four main tasks here ¡V drain the blocks, manifolds and power-steering cooler/raw-water pump, and ¡§Fog¡¨. Each engine type (Merc, Volvo, ??) will be slightly different, but they all work the same. Check your manuals and adapt as needed.

Fogging is the process where you introduce fogging oil in to the engine by removing your spark/flame arrestors and spraying this oil in to your motor.

I¡¦ve had good luck attaching 2¡¨ ball valves (available at Home Depot) to the raw-water hose, and BLOWING the water out with some good old fashioned hot-air¡Klike with the Sea Cocks.


1. ¡§Fog¡¨ each motor with your favorite stuff¡KI use ¡§Merc¡¦s Fogging Oil¡¨. While the engine is running, spray this gunk in, and pinch off your fuel-line so that the engine gets the oil and not fuel. When it dies, you¡¦re done.

2. Change your motor oil, filters and water-seps. My Volvo¡¦s have screw-fittings on the dip-sticks that I hook my Jabsco oil-sucker ($150 from BoatUS/Wests).

3. Drain your blocks and exhaust manifolds My Volvo¡¦s have all the drains connected to one hose. Late-model Mercs have blue plugs. Pull ¡¥em all.

4. Disconnect your raw-water pump inlet hose. Volvo¡¦s are mounted on the crank. Like the water heater, there is a water INLET and a water OUTLET. Volvo¡¦s also have ¡§riser¡¨ bumps that keep the ocean from rushing in.

5. Clamp on ball-valves to the inlets and like with the Sea Cocks, blow the water out until you hear bubbles under the transom. This blows the water level down below the water-line, and when you shut the ball-valves, keeps it there. This also blows out the power-steering cooler on the Volvo¡¦s.

6. Tie wrap the ball valves up high.

7. Done!


Air Conditioning/Heating

Your AC/Heat is a raw-water pump too. Since you¡¦ve already blown your cock, you¡¦re going to follow a similar procedure to pump ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ thru the AC unit until it goes overboard. AC equipment (Sea Cock, Raw-Water Pump, etc) is under the floor at the bottom of the Companion Way ladder.

1. Clean out your sea strainer

2. Fill the sea-strainer with ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨

3. Attach a temporary hose to the inlet side of the strainer

4. Stick it in a bottle of ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨.

5. Turn on the AC and have Ginny watch the thru hull.

6. You¡¦ll hear the water pump turn on ¡V it¡¦s right there.

7. When ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ comes out, you¡¦re done.

Miscellaneous

1. While you were working on your AC, did you clean out your shower sump pump? It¡¦s a nasty job, but you gotta do it. Fill it up with ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ and trigger the pump until ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ squirts of the side.

2. Pour ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ in your drains

3. Clean your bilge(s) and dry them completely. I could lick my bilge - can you? ļ

4. Wash-n-wax the whole boat.

5. Remove anything that might collect mold, mildew, or other stinky stuff

6. Did you tag circuit breakers for things like Fresh Water, Head, Macerator and things that you might turn on that are now loaded with ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨?

----------------------------------------------------------------


GENERAL:
Do a general cleaning of hull, deck and topsides using a mild detergent
Make sure drains and scuppers are clear
Put on a good coat of wax
Clean and polish metal with a good metal polish
Clean teak and oil
Clean windows and hatches
Clean canvas, bimini and dodger
Clean interior including bilges
Check spare parts and tools and replace as necessary
Make sure registration is current and onboard
Check and replace wiper blades if necessary
HULL
Check for hull abrasions, scratches, gouges, etc. and repair
Check and replace zincs
Check for blisters and refinish is necessary
Check rub rails
Check swim platform and/or ladder
Inspect and test trim tabs
Check shaft, cutlass bearing, strut and prop
Check rudder and fittings
Touch up or replace antifouling paint
DECK, FITTINGS, SAFETY EQUIPMENT:
Check stanchion, pulpits and lifelines for integrity
Check ground tackle, lines, fenders, etc.
Check chainplates and cleats
Check hull/deck joint
Check deck, windows, and port lights for leaks
Inspect anchor windlass and lubricate
Clean and grease winches
Check and lubricate blocks, pad eyes, etc.
Check dinghy, and life raft
BELOW DECKS:
Check, test and lubricate seacocks
Check condition of hoses and clamps
Make sure below waterline hoses are double clamped
Check bilges pumps for automatic and manual operation
Check for oil in bilges
Check limber holes and make sure they are clear of debris
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND COMPONENTS:
Check battery water level
Check/recharge batteries
Check terminals for corrosion, clean and lubricate
Check bonding system
Inspect all wiring for wear and chafe
Test all gauges for operability
Check shore power and charger
Check for spare fuses
Check all lighting fixtures (including navigation lights) and make sure you have spare bulbs
Check all electronics for proper operation
Inspect antennas
REQUIRED AND RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT:
Sound signaling device
Check distress signals and expiration date
Check Pfds
Inspect life rings and cushions
Check fire extinguishers and recharge if necessary
Check and adjust compass
Check navigation lights
Check charts and replace as necessary
Check radar reflector
Check and replace first aid supplies
Check bailer and hand pump
INBOARD ENGINE(S):
Change oil & filters - have spare onboard
Check and change fuel filters - have spares onboard
Check and change engine zincs
Check cooling system change coolant as necessary - have extra onboard
Record engine maintenance log, especially date & hours of last oil changes
Check belts for tension
Check transmission fluid
Check and clean backfire flame arrestor
Check impeller
Check and clean water strainer
Check bilge blower
HEAD SYSTEM:
Checked for smooth operation - lubricate and clean as necessary
If equipped with treatment system, have chemicals on hand
Y-valve operation checked, valve labeled & secured
WATER SYSTEM:
Flush water tank
Check water system and pump for leaks and proper operation
Check hot water tank working on both AC and engines
Check for tank cap keys on board
Check and clean shower sump pump screens
GALLEY:
Fill propane tank, check electric & manual valves, check storage box vent to make sure it is clear
Check refrigerator, clean and freshen, operate on AC and DC
Clean stove, check that all burners and oven are working
Check microwave, if fitted
OUTBOARD MOTOR:
Replace spark plugs
Check plug wires for wear
Check prop for nicks and bends
Change/fill gear lube
Inspect fuel lines, primer bulb and tank for leaks
Lubricate and spray moveable parts


2009 Regal 4080
Volvo Diesel IPS

Homeport: Anchorage YC - Lindenhurst, NY Go to Top of Page

boatbum

RO# 36

Posted - Sep 24 2014 :  18:49:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CurrentSea

Kind of hard to fill with oil on some motors where the filters are mounted on top.
Don't attempt!

Mine are.



Dave take the boat to Australia. Problem solved.




Homeport: Go to Top of Page

ranger42c

RO# 32710

Posted - Sep 25 2014 :  07:57:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CurrentSea



Water Heater
The hot water heater is nothing more than a big tank with an electric element in it to heat the water. There is a drain, a cold-water INPUT and a hot water OUTPUT. Cruisers Yachts uses ¡§Quick Connects¡¨ to attach the hoses.

Most RV places sell Water Heater By-Pass kits. Get one. This basically ties the cold and hot system tubes together and by-passes the whole hot-water heater. The by-pass installs at the inlet/outlet of the heater and uses diverters to ¡§cross-over¡¨. You want to drain every drop from the heater, but it is recommended that you NOT waste 6 gallons of ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ to fill the heater.

1. Obtain/Install a Water Heater By-Pass Kit (RV places have them)

Note: These kits allow you to by-pass the water heater to keep pressure in the system. They are about $30 and well worth it. Buy it, install it, and forget it. If you don¡¦t, you should fill your water heater with 6+ gallons of ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨. You¡¦ll never get all the ¡§Pink Stuff¡¨ out. Don¡¦t do it.

2. Turn off the power to the water heater. Mark it, so you don¡¦t turn it on when the heater is empty, and zap the heating element.

3. Drain the water heater in to the bilge and leave the drain valve open




FWIW...

We use compressed air, very little pink AF -- i.e., in the neighborhood of 1/8 gallon.

We don't bypass the water heater.

We drain it, along with the rest of the freshwater system. The manual for our water heater model says after draining that some water will be left standing (yep), and it's OK if it freezes.

The only pink AF we use in the freshwater system is a quick shot (a couple seconds worth) through the filter/pump/accumulator tank (to protect those) -- and any overage from that quick shot happens to get routed into the water heater.

Which means rinsing and draining (again) the water heater first in the Spring, but that's not a huge deal.

-Chris



Selby Bay, South River

Edited by - ranger42c on Sep 25 2014 07:59:09

Homeport: Londontowne, MD Go to Top of Page

Rich122

RO# 19347



Posted - Oct 01 2014 :  11:37:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here's mine printed and checked off item by item
WINTERIZATION CHECK OFF LIST
ENGINE ROOM
Engines
1/2 Fuel tanks, add stabilizer. (1oz per 5gals) or 60oz per tank
Change Oil, filters, add stabilizer (8oz per engine)
Shut Seacocks, run to add antifreeze until pink runs thru exhaust Generator Set
Change Oil, filter add stabilizer * Check hours if needed
Shut Seacock, run to add antifreeze until pinks runs thru exhaust.
Air Conditioning System
Shut Seacocks, run to add antifreeze until pink runs thru hull vents (boat uses common drains)
Dry vac drip pans under each compressor unit
WATER SYSTEMS
Disconnect city water supply, and run system dry. (air pump city to manifold)
Add 20gals antifreeze to water tank, and run:
Master Head:COLD Sink, Shower, Toilet flush until pink runs though drain
Washer:COLD run one cycle until pink
Galley sink Cold until pink runs through drain
Guest Head: COLD Sink, Shower, Toilet flush until pink runs through drain
Cockpit sink: COLD until pink runs through back drain
Cockpit Ice marker, run cycle until pink cubes drop
Cockpit shower: COLD until pink runs out
Transom wash down until pink runs through
Anchor Locker Wash down until pink runs through
Windshield washer until pink runs through
Engine room wash down until pink runs through
Check water level, and add antifreeze if needed, run HOT water (heater breaker off)
Master Head: HOT Sink, Shower until pink runs through
Washer: HOT run one cycle until pink in drum
Galley sink: HOT until pink runs through
Guest Head: HOT Sink, Shower until pink run through. Send down floor drain.
Cockpit shower: HOT until pink runs through
Drain Hotwater tank
Check Sump box in ER, to make sure pink antifreeze is sitting in it.
HEAD SYSTEM
Pump Out, and clean
Add antifreeze to toilet, and flush into holding tank for last time
NON CRITICAL SYSTEMS
Remove all food, beverages (in salon, and under cockpit seats)
Clean, bag, and stow all bedding. (dryer sheets in bags)
Open all cabinets, and lockers
Shut down main panel EXCEPT: BAT & Thruster Bat chargers
Clean, defrost, and leave open both refrigerators
Shut down battery switches (check for bilge pump operation with switches off)
Remove water hose from transom locker, Blow dry w/ compressor
TENDER OUTBOARD
Outboard-charge oil, change lower unit gear lube
Stabilize fuel
Wash down, remove battery, Shrink wrap
CANVAS-Last just before shrink wrap
Clean, Dry, Stow loosely rolled in mid-berth
Shrink wrap boat



Miscellaneous

Leave Antifreeze overspill in bilge. Run bilge pumps to draw antifreeze

Leave ALL Seacocks OPEN (2 mains, 1 Getset, 1 macerator, 1 A/C pump)

Wipe down everything, with rag/corrosive guard






FRA DIAVLO
SeaRay 540DA
T-QSC8.3s/Zeus-skyhook
t/t Amanzi 350/40hp

Homeport: MYC Stony Point, NY Go to Top of Page

BVasily

RO# 18136



Posted - Oct 01 2014 :  11:58:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks to all. Very helpful.
Winterization begins next week ... sadly.


Bob V.
Seeleys Bay, Ontario, Canada

Homeport: Kingston, Ontario Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic: Type of oil, filter and transmission oil Topic Next Topic: Safety Cord  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Jump To:
BoaterEd © BoaterEd Go To Top Of Page
This page took 0.39 seconds to load
Forum Guidelines and Privacy Notice

    

Boatered.com