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 Volvo Penta 5.7 GXI water injestion and shaft seal
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Author Previous Topic: Fuel Gauge Topic Next Topic: Mercury trim problem  

GregR

RO# 33547



Posted - Feb 26 2020 :  14:33:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I looked at a 2004 boat this week with twin Volvo Penta 5.7 GXI, V-Drive, 400 hours, salt water use. May 2019 the boat had all risers/manifolds replaced because water ingestion was found on one side of the port engine. I reviewed the details, copied below, and it looks like all the right steps were taken to address and repair. Should I be concerned about future issues from this repair?

ISSUE
"Performed visual inspection of engine, found rust buildup around exhaust manifolds and components below indicating water leak/gasket failure between exhaust riser and manifold. Motor mounts rusted. Noted sea water pump rubber vibration dampener deteriorated. Noted some serpentine belt wear present, recommend regular inspection of condition. Performed visual inspection of fluid levels and conditions. Engine oil full, appears in normal/good condition with no evidence of water or metallic contamination. Transmission fluid appears in normal/good condition with no evidence of water or metallic contamination. Noted distributor cap and ignition wires appear new. Noted water in bilge under port engine, prop shaft seal dripping water. Previous service records provided by seller, did not review. Removed and inspected spark plugs, found rust staining on several spark plug electrodes, evidence of water ingestion on engine.
Several plugs found wet with water. Performed cylinder compression test, after testing four of eight cylinders engine started pumping water out of cylinders, unable to test wet cylinders. CYL 1 - 155 PSI,
CYL 2 - 130 PSI, CYL 3 - 250 PSI, CYL 4 - 190 PSI. Tested cylinders very inconsistent. Removed outboard side exhaust manifold from engine to isolate cooling system and prevent further water intrusion to engine, attempted to purge cylinder of water and finish compression test. Noted cylinder head exhaust ports, outer valve faces, valve guides and valve stems rusted. Rotated engine by hand and found valve stems notrusted in movement range area where valve stem seals would be comprimised. Visually inspected cylinder
condition as much as possible with borescope camera, found evidence of light rust staining on cylinder walls, no visible pitting or scoring. Recommend immediate replacement of exhaust manifolds and risers. Recommend spark plug replacement."

SERVICE/REPAIRS

Met with customer to discuss findings from engine surveys. Covered work surfaces in boat with 4,320.00 protective mat where possible. Removed cockpit seats, removed floor panels from boat. Continued troubleshooting water intrusion into port engine, determined cooling passages in exhaust manifolds and/or
risers breached. Removed manifolds and risers from port engine, two manifold bolts broke. Cranked engine to purge all water from cylinders. Performed compression test on remaining cylinders. Inspected exhaust ports and valve stems, found ports and stems rusted. Slowly rotated engine over and found rust on valve stems only existed in exposed areas outside of valve guides. Met with customer and discussed findings, customer elected to continue with exhaust manifold repalcement and see how engines ran after
repairs. Coated cylinders and exhaust ports with fogging oil to protect from further rust during service. Moved acetylene torches to boat and set up, heated and extracted remaining pieces of exhaust manifold
bolts. Scraped and polished cylinder head surfaces, checked with straight edge to verify sufficient gasket sealing area around exhaust ports. Installed new Volvo exhaust manifolds, risers, associated gaskets and
fasteners. Installed new spark plugs in all cylinders. Test ran port engine at dock, engine started easily and appeared to run well. Rechecked fastener torque, rechecked hose clamps. Removed and replaced
starboard engine exhaust manifolds and risers. Cleaned and surfaced conditioned cylinder head surfaces, checked with straight edge before installation. Replaced all spark plugs. Started and test ran engine at
dock, engine ran properly. Sea trialed boat and confirmed engines performeing properly, no abnormal noise, vibration, power loss, etc. noted at this time. Noted water leaking from port prop shaft seal. Moved
boat for haul out. Removed port prop for access to slide shaft back from transmission, removed shaft zincs and bottom paint from shaft. Removed coupler bolts, found coupler
seized to shaft. Made and installed coupler puller, removed seized coupler from shaft. Removed and replaced shaft seal, adjusted
cutlass to place shaft seal in a different position on the shaft , original seal had left a groove in the prop shaft. Reinstalled coupler and prop shaft. Replaced shaft zincs and repainted prop shaft. Reprimed all
water intake strainers. Launched boat and test ran engines, checked shaft seals and found no leaks. Boatwas run by salesman for 1+ hours at high speed. Removed and insepcted spark plugs, found no signs of
water ingestion or damage. Performed second compression tests, all cylinders came up to Volvo spec range. Reinstalled spark plugs. Reinstalled floor panels, seats, etc. that were removed for access. During
service one battery repeatedly went dead, recharged multiple times, multiple times needed to use parallel
switch to jump start engine. Battery failed load test. Replaced battery. Cleaned boad and made ready for
delivery.

Formerly "MrsRobinson" on here
2005 Monterey 302 - sold
2000 Monterey 302 - sold
2001 Regal 3780 - sold
1995 Sea Ray 330DA - sold
2004 Maxum 2400 SCR - sold
1996 Maxum 1900 SCR - sold

Edited by - GregR on Feb 26 2020 14:35:08

Homeport: Stafford, VA

GregR

RO# 33547



Posted - Feb 27 2020 :  08:37:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No takers? ;-) Where are my BoaterEd gear heads?

Formerly "MrsRobinson" on here
2005 Monterey 302 - sold
2000 Monterey 302 - sold
2001 Regal 3780 - sold
1995 Sea Ray 330DA - sold
2004 Maxum 2400 SCR - sold
1996 Maxum 1900 SCR - sold

Homeport: Stafford, VA Go to Top of Page

pdecat

RO# 842



Posted - Feb 27 2020 :  09:18:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Greg:

I would be very cautious of buying a boat that had water ingestion. Piston rings could be rusted and less likely rods bent. If it was my boat I would continue to run it for some time before I became comfortable that no problems would develop. V drives give extra interior room but cause stern heavy running and wake making and make the bow light and more easily blown around. IMO you deserve a larger mid engine boat

I dont like V drives because of difficulty inspecting and repairing shaft seals. I dislike shaft seals even more but they can be replaced with normal stuffing boxes.


Bruce



Homeport: Gulf Coast FL Go to Top of Page

pdecat

RO# 842



Posted - Feb 27 2020 :  09:19:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Maybe even time to consider a diesel boat

Bruce



Homeport: Gulf Coast FL Go to Top of Page

GregR

RO# 33547



Posted - Feb 27 2020 :  12:03:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Engines have about 50 hours on them since the repair.

I am a river boater so this size boat is perfect for me.


Formerly "MrsRobinson" on here
2005 Monterey 302 - sold
2000 Monterey 302 - sold
2001 Regal 3780 - sold
1995 Sea Ray 330DA - sold
2004 Maxum 2400 SCR - sold
1996 Maxum 1900 SCR - sold

Homeport: Stafford, VA Go to Top of Page

pdecat

RO# 842



Posted - Feb 27 2020 :  14:36:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I like the detail of the repair report. if you are comfortable with it after a good run. Go for it

Bruce



Homeport: Gulf Coast FL Go to Top of Page

GregR

RO# 33547



Posted - Feb 28 2020 :  10:54:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I just spoke to the mechanic who wintered the boat and did a tune up in December 2019. He's also serviced the boat numerous times over the past 5 years. He did not do the manifold/riser work in June though. I asked for his opinion on the rusted value stem/exhaust port. He said they see that all the time with leaking manifolds. They only send the head out for a rebuild if they get low compression readings. This engine has had good compression readings since the work was done in May.

He replaced the fuel filters in 2017. Replaced both VSTs in 2016. Replaced both Sea Water pumps in 2016. VST replacement is common on these engines because they are painted and the paint flakes off.


Formerly "MrsRobinson" on here
2005 Monterey 302 - sold
2000 Monterey 302 - sold
2001 Regal 3780 - sold
1995 Sea Ray 330DA - sold
2004 Maxum 2400 SCR - sold
1996 Maxum 1900 SCR - sold

Homeport: Stafford, VA Go to Top of Page

pdecat

RO# 842



Posted - Feb 28 2020 :  11:11:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If it is a fresh water boat there is far less chance of rusting than in salt water.

Bruce



Homeport: Gulf Coast FL Go to Top of Page

LouC

RO# 10314

Posted - Mar 01 2020 :  10:45:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK a few questions, I can't comment on the V-Drive issues having never had one, only the Cobra I/O
1) a 2004 salt water boat, was it used in salt water all this time?
2) raw water cooling?
if yes to both questions here is a concern, this point I can say I have learned from experience. What happens with raw water cooling in salt water is eventually between 15-20 years of that use, the cooling passages in the cyl heads start to get eroded and castings start to get thin. What can happen is that due to erosion of the cooling passages eventually you can get seepage or leakage around the head gasket. If a cooling passage rusts through you can get water in a cyl and hydrolock the engine. I learned this when I had to replace blown HGs on my '88 4.3 V6. At the time it was run in salt water at least 15 years. I took the old heads to a machine shop and they felt the cooling passages were getting eroded and would not seal correctly after re-surfacing. So I installed a set of re-man cyl heads. So while the mechanic said they don't replace heads just because of rust, as long as the comp test results are not low, there is this going on in the background. Also due to the water ingestion, a hydrolock which can bend a rod, is possible, but that would have been obvious due to rough running, clunking noises from the lower end of the engine, etc.
Also, water ingestion can cause sticking valves due to rust on the valve stems and while this may pass, it can be a problem that necessitates a valve job. I started getting this at the beginning of my problem with the blown HGs (did not know that was what was causing it yet), symptom was difficulty starting, rough cold running that would smooth out. Turned out to be both HGs blown, some water in #2 cyl and just a mist of water in #1. At first thought water was from exhaust manifold (would have been an easy fix lol) but not so, tested and it did not leak. I was getting exhaust gas in the cooling water and water in a cyl after the engine was shut off. So, drained block and fogged cyls, Took it apart and you could see the HGs were blown right near a water passage. Put it back together with re-man heads and still running well.

So my point here is this is the down side of raw water cooling in salt water, happens even with outboards, and can lead to problems down the line even if you never had a manifold/elbow joint leak.

Just something to keep in mind if you buy the boat. That style of Volvo manifold/elbow has had leak issues and they revised the gaskets and installation procedures over time. I have the same style exhaust on my boat, replacing the old style OMC one piece exhaust that is no longer available. I used Barr aftermarket with their steel/composite gaskets with Permatex Aviation and no leaks since installation (2017).

Will the boat continue to be used in salt or now be used in freshwater? If you are a river boater I'm thinking fresh, then the manifolds installed will last a long time.



1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC Cobra
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi Quadradrive II

Edited by - LouC on Mar 01 2020 10:53:32

Homeport: Long Island NY Go to Top of Page
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