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Coolbreeze767

RO# 15136

Posted - May 01 2007 :  14:21:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Vic,
Once upon a time you posted an indepth description and procedure on what the timming gears did in these things and how to troubleshoot operations. Is that tid bit still around. Thanks
Rick

Homeport: Lake Lanier, Ga.

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - May 02 2007 :  14:08:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Les archived it somewhere, the first of the year, to make space available on his server. I haven't been able to figure out where it (and most of my earlier "stickies") got to. I'll have to re-do it and post it but I'm snowed under at the moment - give me a couple days.

-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

Coolbreeze767

RO# 15136

Posted - May 02 2007 :  14:11:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you sir..

Rick

Homeport: Lake Lanier, Ga. Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - May 02 2007 :  14:20:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sir ??? Sure you don't mean Cur ???

-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

Coolbreeze767

RO# 15136

Posted - May 02 2007 :  14:31:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Cur??????????

Rick

Homeport: Lake Lanier, Ga. Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - May 02 2007 :  15:08:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mongrel dog...

-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

Coolbreeze767

RO# 15136

Posted - May 02 2007 :  15:37:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Vic,
You have bailed me out to much in the past for me to be mean to you..


Rick

Homeport: Lake Lanier, Ga. Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - May 03 2007 :  09:05:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK, here's how they work. U-Line ice makers are controlled by a double-throw thermostat, that is the heart of the system. They call it a "cold control." The cold control has a screwdriver adjustment to control the temperature inside the "box" - it should always be set to the warmest possible position - don't ask why, just take my word for it. As long as the cubes remain good and hard, leave it at the warmest possible setting. If the cubes are soft and wet, then adjust it a little colder - no other time. When you first turn the machine on, the cold control is set in the cool down cycle. The compressor and fan run, cooling down the inside of the machine. On newer units, the cold control is located at the front of the machine, at the bottom, behind the lower grille; on older machines (before 1990), it was sometimes located at the rear of the machine. Anyway, it is a little box that has a capillary tube coming out of it and running up the rear of the machine, in through the rear panel, and into the inside of the machine. It fits into a hollow tube that runs into the actual mold. As the machine cools down, this capillary tube senses the temperature of the actual metal ice mold. When the temperature of the mold becomes cold enough that any water inside it will have frozen - whether there's water there or not - the thermostat switches positions inside (double-throw - it breaks the contact that runs the cool down cycle by turning off the compressor and fan and switches to its other internal position, initiating the "harvest cycle").

When the harvest cycle is initiated, the ejector fingers begin to rotate. As the rotation begins, a cam inside the actual ice making unit turns - this does a number of things. It turns on the mold heater, to loosen the cubes inside the mold. The fingers will come down on top of the ice and stall there, until the mold heater has heated the mold enough to loosen the cubes. Then the fingers will begin to move again, pushing the ice cubes out the rear of the mold area, and as it continues turning it will "flip" them forward into the ice bucket. The wire "bail arm" will rise upward. You will hear the cubes drop into the ice bucket. As the fingers continue turning, the wire "bail arm" will come back down, checking the level of the cubes in the ice bucket. If the level of the cubes in the ice bucket is high enough that the wire arm can't come all the way down, it will disable the ejection mechanism so that the ice bucket doesn't over-fill. You will hear the cubes (if there were any) dropping down into the ice bucket. Then, as it continues turning, the cam activates a switch that opens the water valve, bringing water into the mold for the next batch of cubes. Note: this is the ONLY way water will come into the ice mold. If all the earlier things haven't happened, water will NEVER come into the mold. You can hear the water running into the ice mold for several seconds, then it will stop. The incoming water will have warmed up the inside of the mold enough to re-set the thermostat, and it goes back into cool down mode. The fingers "park" and the compressor and fan come back on, and the machine begins to cool down again.

The most common problem with U-Line icemakers is that the thermostat fails over time, and it never goes into the harvest cycle. The machine gets cold but never delivers any cubes or takes in any water. Most people think that the water valve has gone bad. This condition is NOT due to a failed water valve; it is a failed thermostat (cold control). About 95% of the problems with U-Line icemakers can be corrected by replacing the thermostat. However, it is not an easy job, and it will require removing the machine from where it is installed. The thermostat replacement requires access to the rear area of the machine.


-- The Head Master --

Edited by - Vic Willman on May 03 2007 09:24:55

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

EM2

RO# 26593

Posted - Jun 05 2007 :  19:49:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Vic, mine is producing alot of ice except it leaks onto the floor, it does not seem to be coming from inside the ice box. any common leaking problems with this 1990 model.


Homeport: Curtice,Ohio Go to Top of Page

GSENT

RO# 12438

Posted - Jun 05 2007 :  22:11:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Check the gardenhose fitting on the plastic solonoid valve. there is a reducer to 1/4 inch sup[ply line, and a rubber washer between this fitting and the plastic valve.

GARY STALEY

Homeport: PGH, PA Go to Top of Page

davita

RO# 16378

Posted - Jun 05 2007 :  23:36:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Vic,
Great explanation...better than the manual....you have put paid to those who profess that there is a timer inside...there is NO timer!
Now that I have flattered you perhaps you can help with my problem.
My '95 U-Line is temperamental...normally it operates just as you describe then, sometimes, on the harvest cycle, the fingers start to rotate then stick at the 45 degree position. If I bump the door, or the mechanism, it will continue to rotate and complete the cycle.
This causes a slow production of cubes.
I have already defrosted the icemaker twice, and started afresh, but it continues to be temperamental.
Any ideas?
David



Homeport: Vancouver Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 07 2007 :  11:35:20  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David, sounds like the cube ejector motor (part # 102) is on the way out. Before replacing the motor, try reducing the water level just a little (horizontal screw that is spring-loaded, at the upper right corner of the metal mounting plate behind the plastic mold cover). Turn it two full turns in the (minus) direction, and see if that doesn't help things. If not, grab your ankles, the motor will have to be replaced before long (estimate for the motor: $75)

EM2, as Gary mentioned, the most common source for leakage is that they've cross-threaded the garden hose conector on the water solenoid valve. Other possible sources are a cracked plastic internal water line, or the water line that feeds the water up the rear of the cabinet has laid on the side of the compressor, and the heat from the compressor has burnt a hole in it.
Take off the lower grille and watch it, especially toward the end of the ejection cycle, when it calls for water to be fed to the ice mold.


-- The Head Master --

Edited by - Vic Willman on Jun 07 2007 11:46:01

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

davita

RO# 16378

Posted - Jun 07 2007 :  12:23:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Vic...good advice...I will try today as I'll be on the boat on the dock, for the weekend.
I've previously tried to remove the cover to the mechanism but did not want to force it. Is it easy to remove?
Also, if the motor is 'kaput' would you recommend the motor or the whole mechanism be changed? Disregarding cost, which would be easier?
Thanks
David



Homeport: Vancouver Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 07 2007 :  13:53:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David, on the bottom of the cover are two notches. You put screwdriver blade in one of them and twist it. Have no fear, you usually wind up cracking the cover when you remove it. But it doesn't actually "break" - it just cracks a little in one of the corners.

The motor is MUCH easier to change out than replacing the whole icemaker unit. It can be changed out in about 20 minutes - you'll need a couple wire nuts to do the job - the factory uses "crimp-on wire nuts" that will be destroyed when you remove them. Orange wire nuts should be the right size - get the small ones, not those with the wings on them. Just two screws to change out the actual motor, and the wire nuts to join the motor wires with the rest of the wires inside.

Changing the whole icemaker unit out will require at least a twelve pack - and maybe a few shots of Jack; also be sure there are no women present within hearing range, and it'll likely take 2-3 hours. Contrary to what most women seem to think, swearing actually does help...!


-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

davita

RO# 16378

Posted - Jun 07 2007 :  15:13:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Vic,
The Admiral is out of town so, this weekend, I planned to sit on my boat in the middle of Vancouver and perve the ladies walking the area, whilst drinking a case of Hardy's Cabernet.
Your advice has given me a much more interesting project to pursue ..... thank you!
You see ..... that's what happens when you turn 70!

"swearing actually does help...!" .......... I agree.

I flew L1011's for a while and everytime a red light flashed I yelled F*** O**! ....... and the light would go out.



Homeport: Vancouver Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 07 2007 :  15:41:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Davita, I'm not too far behind you - turned 65 yesterday (6/6/42). 4 and 2 also adds up to 6, making it 666; could I be the Antichrist?

I had to laugh about you talking to the red flashing lights on the plane - I've done similar things myself. Hell, I have complete conversations with myself at times; and they're often laced with profanity...!


-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

davita

RO# 16378

Posted - Jun 07 2007 :  16:17:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Happy Birthday Vic
Mine was last Sunday (3 June 1937). So we are both Geminis (the twins)!!!
In addition to having 2 penises it is probably why we talk to ourselves...and why we profanely call the other talker a "Stu**d A**". It is reflective; like talking to a mirror.

Don't know about you being Antichrist...I'm not a big believer...but I do believe you know a lot about marine plumbing...and THAT, to me, is much more important.
David



Edited by - davita on Jun 07 2007 16:19:46

Homeport: Vancouver Go to Top of Page

PascalG

RO# 12212



Posted - Jun 07 2007 :  17:18:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
happy Bday Vic !

ok... with such detailed information i suddenly felt i had no excuse for not at least checking out what's wrong with my Uline IM. age unknown, it's a CM 45A with SS door, quite a bit of rust around so it's not new!... it's been sitting out in the aft deck wet bar ever since i got the boat and i realized it wasn't working :-( not that we dont' need ice aboard, but i've been using the IM in the big GE fridge freezer in the galley...

so, i pulled out of the cabinet, easy... jsut the trim screws and 2 screw in teh bottom of the chassis. It starts, compressor runs, I quickly feel the "radiator" warming up and the pipe in the back getting ice cold. BUT the fan doesn't start.

question nr 1... should the fan run all the time or only when the unit gets real hot ? I turned it off after a couple of minutes... I checked the blades, after i turned it off, doesn't turn very well so i guess that the first thing to pull. what's thebest place to get parts ?


Pascal
1970 Hatteras 53 MY
26' Starfish sloop
12' Westphal Catboat
16' Hobie Cat
13' Sandbarhopper

Homeport: Miami, FL Go to Top of Page

Sunny

RO# 10414

Posted - Jun 07 2007 :  19:21:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Vic,
Happy B'day!
We are finicky (pias) really didn't want to ingest ice from the tanks, even with filtering etc. We dismembered the guts of the U-Line, and use it for a freezer to hold bag, or brought from home ice (or ice cream!) Works for us.



Homeport: Seneca River, NY Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 08 2007 :  09:30:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Pascal, fan and compressor are wired parallel to one another. Any time the compressor is running, fan should also run. U-Line's part number for a replacement fan motor is #415, Raritan's part number is #I25 - either one will work.

http://www.boatfix.com/elec/raracc.asp?parttype=pi (scroll down to Mfr's part # I25)

Sometimes the fan motor is full of dust and dirt, restricting its movement. You can clean it up, then remove the plastic caps over the motor bearings and oil it a bit, spin it a few times - and sometimes that's all it takes to get it going again.

To remove and replace it, you'll need to be able to get in the rear of the unit. Remove the back panel. Then tip up the machine and remove the 4 rubber feet. Then grab the bottom base plate that everything mounts onto, and pull it out 4-6", like a drawer. That will give you the necessary access to the fan and its motor. Simply remove it with fan blade attached, pull off the fan blade (it's only a friction fit) and cut the motor wires close to the motor. Install the fan blade onto the new motor, mount the motor/blade assembly, spin the fan to be sure it isn't hitting the shroud, etc. It it hits anything, bend the bracket a bit so that it will clear everything and spin freely. Then splice the wires from the motor to the cut-off wires from the original motor. Push the "drawer" back into place - you may have to press on the refrigerant tubes a little to get them back in place. Then re-attach the feet, plug it in and turn it on. Don't bother to put the rear panel back on until you're sure it's working. It'll work fine without the rear panel being installed...

Sunny, others have done that, too - particularly when they become frustrated with the ice making mechanism not working.

We were experimenting with an add-on gizmo where you use a 5 gallon bottle of filtered water, like from an office cooler, together with a pump, and use that to feed the icemaker rather than using the water from the boat's tanks. Worked well, but the 5 gallon bottle seems a little too bulky (and heavy) to be practical for use on a boat. Some of the newer coolers for home use are now using a smaller water bottle - we may take a look at that.


-- The Head Master --

Edited by - Vic Willman on Jun 08 2007 09:31:24

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 08 2007 :  09:41:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks all, for the birthday wishes.

Davita, I don't need two penises, just one that works a little better..


-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

PascalG

RO# 12212



Posted - Jun 08 2007 :  10:55:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
thks Vic ! ipulled it out last night, pulled the rear cover off but dind't see any tray at the bottom.. did't look much, I jsut reached in and unscrewed the motor from the bracket. it's toast... a little stiff but rusted out, one of the lead is broken off the coil...

Uline and Raritan use the same? great ! I'll check on the raritan site to see if i can find a drawing to make sure since mine is old..


years ago, i used a small marine water pump with a 12v power supply to pump water from 5gal spring water bottle into my Subzero ice maker as well as into a stand alone chiller connected to a little faucet on the sink. worked well...


Pascal
1970 Hatteras 53 MY
26' Starfish sloop
12' Westphal Catboat
16' Hobie Cat
13' Sandbarhopper

Homeport: Miami, FL Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 08 2007 :  14:30:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Pascal, it isn't actually a pan or tray; it's the metal base plate that the compressor, condenser, etc., all mount onto. Just pull it out, like a drawer, from the rear (after you've removed the 4 feet). Yes, Raritan and U-Line's fan motors are interchangeable.

Oh, BTW, it isn't listed and there's no picture of the motor on Raritan's website, you'll have to trust me that it'll work. I did the original design work on Raritan's version of the U-Line icemaker, so I know for a fact that the Raritan motor will fit the U-Line unit.

And yes, I am a licensed refrigeration technician. I actually have a permit allowing me to buy R12 refrigerant - if I could find it anywhere. It's very scarce (and expensive) these days.


-- The Head Master --

Edited by - Vic Willman on Jun 08 2007 14:39:19

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

PascalG

RO# 12212



Posted - Jun 08 2007 :  14:44:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
thks Vic i already put the unit back in the cabinet but now i kwnow I'll have easy access to re install the new fan once i get if from BF.. i looked at the icerette parts list, yeah, can't really see what it looks like.. i'll take your word for it :-)

i was about to just trow that thing away but this thread made me decide to investigate ! at least, if i a can get it to cool, and it looks like it will, i can make ice in teh galley and store it on deck.. that woudl be nice.


Pascal
1970 Hatteras 53 MY
26' Starfish sloop
12' Westphal Catboat
16' Hobie Cat
13' Sandbarhopper

Homeport: Miami, FL Go to Top of Page

Coolbreeze767

RO# 15136

Posted - Jun 08 2007 :  14:47:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Who would have thought that my request for the operation guide would turn into such a wealth of information on these little critters. Happy Belated Birthday Vic and a drink to many more.

Rick

Homeport: Lake Lanier, Ga. Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 08 2007 :  23:04:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Rick, for the kind words! That's what's so wonderful about this Forum, one thing leads to another and a lot of worthwhile information comes out - sometimes even by accident! If this Forum had turned out like a lot of others on the internet, with flaming, profanity and just general smart alecking, I'd have been long gone from it; although I appreciate good humor and a joke as much as anyone else.

But instead, most of the RO's show that they are basically serious-minded, friendships are made (even though many of us have actually never met in person), everyone shares the love of the water and boating, and most are more than willing to help out one another. I attibute it all to the professionalism shown by Les and George in maintaining and overseeing what goes on here, and keeping it within reasonable bounds. Kudos to both of them!


-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

EM2

RO# 26593

Posted - Jun 10 2007 :  09:27:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Vic Willman

David, sounds like the cube ejector motor (part # 102) is on the way out. Before replacing the motor, try reducing the water level just a little (horizontal screw that is spring-loaded, at the upper right corner of the metal mounting plate behind the plastic mold cover). Turn it two full turns in the (minus) direction, and see if that doesn't help things. If not, grab your ankles, the motor will have to be replaced before long (estimate for the motor: $75)

EM2, as Gary mentioned, the most common source for leakage is that they've cross-threaded the garden hose conector on the water solenoid valve. Other possible sources are a cracked plastic internal water line, or the water line that feeds the water up the rear of the cabinet has laid on the side of the compressor, and the heat from the compressor has burnt a hole in it.
Take off the lower grille and watch it, especially toward the end of the ejection cycle, when it calls for water to be fed to the ice mold.


Thanks to Gary and Vic, it looks like the only time it leaks is when it is full, it did look like the garden hose fitting was leaking by the water stain on it, I will fill it back up and watch to see what happens.



Edited by - EM2 on Jun 10 2007 09:30:51

Homeport: Curtice,Ohio Go to Top of Page

davita

RO# 16378

Posted - Jun 10 2007 :  15:38:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Davita reporting back....
It poured with rain yesterday so no bikina clad ladies to admire on the dock!
I gingerely removed the mechanism cover over my U-line BI-95BTP Ice Maker using Vic's technique and thankfully it didn't crack or break.
The motor cover and some of the terminals were a little corroded so I cleaned them up. I also noticed the mechanism holding screws were not S/S and the one that attaches the ground wire was completely broken off. After lube-ing all the parts with white lithium grease and refitting back together, the Ice Maker now appears to work..... 'fingers x/d'.
The motor driving spindle and gear did not come from the centre of the motor therefore I concluded that there must be a small gearbox, integral with the motor, which drives the larger plastic gear and cam arrangement. I did notice that the gears pause and delay when attempting to eject the ice. I presume that the motor must drive a clutching or torque mechanism in this sealed gearcase to permit this 'hanging back', until the ice is ready to be removed from the mold.
I wonder if Vic has the time to explain this more fully as I'm intrigued; it might also help explain why my unit hesitates at the 45 deg position, and yet continues its action after the slightest touch.
David



Homeport: Vancouver Go to Top of Page

PascalG

RO# 12212



Posted - Jun 10 2007 :  15:55:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
isn't infuriating considering the ridiculously outrageous price of a marine ice maker that they use steel screws in there?? same on mine... many rusted screws...

Pascal
1970 Hatteras 53 MY
26' Starfish sloop
12' Westphal Catboat
16' Hobie Cat
13' Sandbarhopper

Homeport: Miami, FL Go to Top of Page

davita

RO# 16378

Posted - Jun 10 2007 :  16:49:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Pascal....I agree!
I edited out my profane words and disappointment before posting my previous, but you have managed to say what I was thinking. If these machines were made in China perhaps this could be expected, but then they might be cheap......
U Line are made in Milwaukee!
David



Homeport: Vancouver Go to Top of Page

navman

RO# 16259

Posted - Jun 11 2007 :  00:03:51  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is great information that will need a print our and placed in my ULine manual for future reference, My Uline problem is it ice's up in the box, first thing I did was reduce the size of the cubes, thinking the tray was over filling. It seemed to get a little better but not the solution. Most all the ice is under the ice bucket on bottom inside of unit. I keep forgetting to check for level of machine, my guess this could be part of the problem.
Also Happy B day Vic and David,
2 penis's, too funny- one for each hand . LMAO



Homeport: Tacoma Go to Top of Page

davita

RO# 16378

Posted - Jun 11 2007 :  01:26:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Navman,
Thanks for the B wishes.
My understanding is that the I/M stops producing ice when the wire is in the UP position. This normally happens when it cannot return to the DOWN position after ejecting the last load.
I know..my explanation sounds kinda lewd......or an advert for Viagra...but that is how it works.
I've been looking at my wire for a couple of days and it took a while to go UP.
It's probable that your wire stays DOWN and the box overflows. This is a common problem caused by OVERUSE! Try using your hand to keep the wire UP and see if anything prematurely ejects and spills over. If it does it could be a failure of the cam inside the box which is designed to prevent this ejaculation.
Just kidding...hope you think this is amusing!
David



Homeport: Vancouver Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 11 2007 :  08:58:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Guys, the non-stainless fasteners is a large part of the reason that Raritan and U-Line parted ways, back around 1990. I'm not knocking their product, but it's basically a household unit that has been "converted" for marine use - whatever that means. They do make a good machine and it lasts a long time. The BI-95 came out in the mid-80's, so you can see that it's already lasted about 20 years, even without the stainless steel fasteners inside.

The motor has a small gear on it that drives the larger (white) gear that you see staring at you when you remove the front cover. This gear is attached to, and drives a cam that controls the all the switching that goes on, but it also drives the ejection "fingers" that rotate and push the cubes out. The drive motor that does all of this is a synchronous motor, that can stall for extended periods of time without burning out. It presses the ejection "fingers" down on top of the ice cubes, trying to push them out. At the same time, the mold heater comes on, heating the mold to loosen the cubes. Eventually they loosen enough to where the fingers can push them out. Then the motor starts turning again, and causes the fingers to push the cubes out. This is normal operation and the motor is designed to work that way without damage. As the cam is turning, it engages and disengages different switches to turn on (and off) the compressor and fan, to turn on the mold heater, to activate the water valve at the appropriate time, etc.

As all the above is going on, the wire arm swings up, scanning the level of the cubes. As the rotation continues, the arm begins to come back down. If the level of ice is such that it can't come all the way down, it opens a switch that disables the ice-ejecting mechanism so that the ice bucket doesn't overfill and you don't have ice falling out on the floor when you open the door. The machine will still maintain the freezing temperature inside. When the ice is used, and the arm can come all the way down to it's normal parked position, the ejection mechanism is turned back on and will allow the ice level in the ice bucket to be replenished.

If, for some reason you want to disable the icemaking mechanism to use the machine as a freezer only (to freeze bait, etc.), raise the wire arm all the way up, until you feel it "click" into the raised position. It will then stay up, and the machine will not make any ice. To restore the icemaking mechanism, pull the wire arm back down.


-- The Head Master --

Edited by - Vic Willman on Jun 12 2007 08:26:30

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

davita

RO# 16378

Posted - Jun 11 2007 :  13:03:51  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Vic, you wrote:
"The drive motor that does all of this is a synchronous motor, that can stall for extended periods of time without burning out."

And I'm kicking myself for not thinking of that...synchronous motors are used widely in aircraft applications such as servo's etc..... but my vague recollection is that they are expensive to manufacture. That probably explains costing big bucks for what appears as a small can, with a rusty back, that just drives a gear round and round!

Thanks again for an excellent explanation.
David



Homeport: Vancouver Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 11 2007 :  13:48:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
On the U-Line units, the motor is geared down to 3 RPM (takes 20 seconds to rotate 1 full turn); on the Raritan-built units, it is 1/3 RPM (takes 3 minutes to rotate 1 full turn).

-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

davita

RO# 16378

Posted - Jun 11 2007 :  14:58:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I know about the slow rotation Vic, but thanks for the accurate information on the RPM.
After I cleaned and lubed the Ice Maker I spent most of Saturday watching it rotate to see if it would stick again. Reminded me of when clothes dryers with windows were produced....I used to obsessively watch the clothes go round and round ...well, at least I wasn't doing drugs!
Did I say that Saturday rained and not one bikini was seen?
Fortunately a friend called to remind me there was a social event in the dock office where copious glasses of wine was drunk, this helped to extricate me from my slow rotating ice maker stupor.
When I staggered back to my boat the ice bin was full...I believe it must have rotated 20-30 times in my absence, and I missed all that excitement!
David



Homeport: Vancouver Go to Top of Page

navman

RO# 16259

Posted - Jun 11 2007 :  20:49:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David, you make retirement sound like so much fun. :-)


Homeport: Tacoma Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 12 2007 :  08:15:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well, I suppose drinking wine beats sitting there watching the icemaker fingers turn round and round - or watching the rain come down - rumor has it that that's the standard pastime in your neck of the woods - counting the rain drops, eh?

-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

dmunneke

RO# 26102

Posted - Jun 12 2007 :  13:18:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My u-line ice makers door seal magnet thing isnt a magnet anymore.. Where can I find one of those?

Obama = 1 term

Homeport: Racine, WI Go to Top of Page

davita

RO# 16378

Posted - Jun 12 2007 :  13:37:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Vic,
Counting raindrops in Vancouver...you are a genius!!
With the Admiral in Indonesia I was contemplating on how to amuse myself this weekend, and you have again given me a project idea.
Alternatively, I could rent a porno DVD and see how long it takes for my wire to go UP....the ice maker wire...then count the RPM required to make it eject....the ice!
or...pump out the holding tank, drain the diesel filters or clean out the shower pump sump.
Boy! having a boat does offer endless retirement fun!
David



Homeport: Vancouver Go to Top of Page

boatman712

RO# 20225

Posted - Jun 12 2007 :  22:31:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Where is the best place to buy parts for a u-line icemaker.


Homeport: Pa Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 13 2007 :  08:59:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Guys, I no longer have any direct involvement with U-Line, and haven't since 1990. Most of what I've been discussing here has been from memory. Your best bet to find a parts source is to call 'em (800) 779-2547 and ask.

-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 13 2007 :  09:03:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David, you've got waaayyy too much time on your hands...

-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

wshiley

RO# 6811

Posted - Jun 20 2007 :  07:24:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Vic, I now know how my Ice Maker works. What a great write up and description. One other question, When we leave the boat for the week we usually flip up the wire lever so the Ice maker is not making ice since I also disconnect the water from the boat. If we forget to flip up the wire does it do any damage to the ice maker?


Homeport: Vermilion, Ohio Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jun 20 2007 :  08:40:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill, won't hurt a thing. Just when the fingers go around, trying to push out ice that isn't there, you'll hear a "buzz" for a couple of seconds when it calls for water and the solenoid valve is activated but no water comes in. Again, won't hurt anything - it'll just remind you to turn the water back on.

-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

boatman712

RO# 20225

Posted - Jul 17 2007 :  16:02:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have a uline wh95tp and I just finished installing a cold control but it did not help. The unit is cold and everything else seems to be in working order. The only thing left to install is a new motor to spin the fngers to eject the ice. Is that something I can install myself? Thanks in advance for the help.



Homeport: Pa Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jul 18 2007 :  10:06:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sure, you can do it yourself; it's a bit of a PITA but you can do it. First check to be sure the ejector fingers are pointing more or less up. Then before trying to change the motor, pull the cover off and put a wrench or a pair of pliers on the hex portion of the small gear that's right on the front. Force-turn the gear 1/4 turn counter-clockwise (you won't hurt anything by doing it). Real old units (I don't know how old yours is) had a small plastic gear, with no hex on it. In that case push the ejector fingers clockwise, about 1/4 turn. If the motor starts to run from there on, you may be good to go; it may have just been "stuck". But if it doesn't run when you do that, motor's bad. Note that the machine must be turned on when you do it.

If the fingers aren't in the "up" position, you may have another problem. There is a one-time fuse (called a "limit switch" in your documentation) that may have popped. It is behind the metal mounting plate (with the gears on it), right smack in the middle of the black mounting box - looks a little like a bimetallic thermostat. For testing purposes it can be jumped out, and the ejector mechanism should run. When this part goes bad, the ejector fingers will stop about halfway through the ejection cycle, and won't go any farther. The machine will be, in effect, dead - nothing will run. If I remember correctly, it's U-Line's part # 109.


-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Jul 18 2007 :  10:08:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Pascal, did you ever get yours going?

-- The Head Master --

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

TWSLPS

RO# 13936

Posted - Aug 15 2007 :  19:14:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
i have two uline ice makers that i am trying to make 1 outof. one the compressor burned up, and the other the icemaker unit
had gone bad, so i took out the ice maker unit from 1 and put in in the one with good compressor. this unit had worked perfect
until a couple weeks ago and the comp went out. now all hooke bakced up, it will freeze fast, but will not dump the ice. i swapped
the t'sat out, but still will not dump. i can turn the gear and the motor then turns and goes thru its complete cyle, untill time
to dump again, then i have to turn gear again, what should i check next. on above thread it was said the compressor should not get
hot, but this one does, but freezes great.
any ideas
thanks



Homeport: Go to Top of Page

Vic Willman

RO# 3655

Posted - Aug 16 2007 :  15:53:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Replace the thermostat - maybe you can swap it from the other unit. If neither one works, you'll need to get a new one. When you contact U-Line, you'll need the model number of the unit, in order to get the correct t-stat (Model 45A, model 95, model 48, etc., etc.) When you can force it into the ejection cycle by turning the gear, everything in the icemaker unit is working alright, it's just that the t'stat isn't activating it.

-- The Head Master --

Edited by - Vic Willman on Aug 16 2007 15:56:16

Homeport: Millville, NJ Go to Top of Page

TWSLPS

RO# 13936

Posted - Aug 16 2007 :  16:06:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks vic, i did do a swap out on tstats but did not
help. i will order a new one & try.
one post said the compressor should not be hot. is that
correct, this compressor get pretty hot after it has run
couple of hours.
thanks



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