Volvo Penta Duo Prop Seized / Stuck Propeller

waterdog

Member
Joined
May 6, 2008
RO Number
30011
Messages
15
I just wanted to share my experience removing a stubborn seized propeller on a Volvo Penta Duo Prop. I bought a 1999 boat 5 months ago and seems like the previous owner did not take the time to remove and apply prop shaft lube to prevent the propeller from corroding and getting stuck in place. As many of you know, on DP-SM lower units, to change the oil, the props have to come out. I tried every trick to get these props out without damaging them without luck ($1200 for the F5 set). Then, searching the internet, I found a Volvo Penta Propeller Puller Tool (P/N: 3888918) for around $220 rb2rb2rb2@gr5tgr5tgr5t local dealer. The problem was that the tool has a maximum not to exceed torque ratting of 150lb/ft (and there is no guarantee of the prop coming out according to the manual). So I decided not to buy it and try something different. Here is the technique I used to remove the props.
There is a usable gap at the back of each prop vane that allows to feed a Вј" steel stranded wire from the inside of the hub (were the exhaust gases exit), through the back of the vane, up the next hole. I fed the Вј" steel wire through each of the three vanes to make loops to attach to a gear puller. To feed the wire I used a regular string with a nut attached at the tip (for weight) and a piece of wire to fish the nut out of the prop hub on the other side of the vane. The string was taped to the steel stranded wire and used to pull/feed through the back of the vanes. Sounds complicated, but took 5 minutes.
Now was the time for the puller, I'm not sure if any regular puller will work. I decided to buy a hydraulic 5 ton puller from harbor freight ($49.99). This puller does the trick without using a wrench or ratchet, just pump it! It comes with three yaw that are not needed since the steel wire was attached to where the yaws attach at the puller. The last step was to clamp each steel wire loop with two forge cable clamps each and start pumping the puller jack (make sure every loop is the same size or the puller will not be align with the prop shaft.
The tension on the wires is applied exactly on the inside of the hub against the prop shaft, so all the force is pulling the hub out of the shaft. This propeller was badly stuck but removed without torching, cutting, heating, etc. The prop made a really loud noise every time it moved. It started coming out in steps of 1/16" at the beginning.
This procedure saved me a lot of money and I hope will help some of you guys to get the props out without damaging them.
 
Thanks for the tip. I have a '88 290DP with the same situation. I have wondered about my drive if I cut the Zinc anode tips/ears to access the bolts that hold the whole prop shaft/ bearing assembly, remove and put in a shop press.......

John
 
This is why you should take them off at least once a year and lube the shaft.
 
and never buy something off of that big internet auction site!!! you know the one with "purchase protection"? B.S.!!!!!!!

previous owner was a creep also!

John
 
Can you take some pics or draw a picture of your setup? I'm having a hard time visualizing your description.

Doug
 
Doug, unfortunately I have no photos, but here are some pictures to illustrate.

props.jpg

This is how I looped the steel wire through the back of the prop vanes to pull the prop out from the core. I painted the dark lines going in the hub.

puller.gif

This is the puller I used, it is approx 14 inches in length, 2 inches in diameter and rated 5 tons.

pullernojaw.gif

This is the puller after removing one of the jaws. You need to remove all jaws to attach the steel wire cable to the puller. Pass each steel wire loop through the vane and then through the hole where the jaw is attached and clamp with two forge cable clamps to prevent from slipping. These steel wire cables where under so much tension that when I hit them with a screwdriver they "dinggggggggg".

volvopentatool.jpg

This is the Volvo Penta tool. What I don't like is that the amount of tension is limited by the strength of the little jaws they have. That’s why they are rated to 150lb/ft max.
When I was removing the front prop (this is the second one to remove) I had to put all my weight on the hydraulic jack, the prop made a bang noise and started to move in steps every time I loaded all my weight on the jack it banged again and moved.
The props came out fine, lots of deposits on the shaft splines and some corrosion on the prop core splines but none on the shaft. Real good cleaning, wire brushed, acid wash, lots of prop grease and torque them back in.
 
I tried to read this thread but I got dizzy scrolling back and forth
 
Yeap, for this one you need good sea legs. Just attach the hydraulic puller any way you want to the prop and get it out...
 
quote:

Originally posted by waterdog

Doug, unfortunately I have no photos, but here are some pictures to illustrate.

props.jpg

This is how I looped the steel wire through the back of the prop vanes to pull the prop out from the core. I painted the dark lines going in the hub.

puller.gif

This is the puller I used, it is approx 14 inches in length, 2 inches in diameter and rated 5 tons.

pullernojaw.gif

This is the puller after removing one of the jaws. You need to remove all jaws to attach the steel wire cable to the puller. Pass each steel wire loop through the vane and then through the hole where the jaw is attached and clamp with two forge cable clamps to prevent from slipping. These steel wire cables where under so much tension that when I hit them with a screwdriver they "dinggggggggg".

volvopentatool.jpg

This is the Volvo Penta tool. What I don't like is that the amount of tension is limited by the strength of the little jaws they have. That’s why they are rated to 150lb/ft max.
When I was removing the front prop (this is the second one to remove) I had to put all my weight on the hydraulic jack, the prop made a bang noise and started to move in steps every time I loaded all my weight on the jack it banged again and moved.
The props came out fine, lots of deposits on the shaft splines and some corrosion on the prop core splines but none on the shaft. Real good cleaning, wire brushed, acid wash, lots of prop grease and torque them back in.






Totally understand now. Excellent engineering my friend. Way to be innovative.

Doug
 
When you say pump it..is it like pumping a hydrolic car jack? another words no air compressor needed? I just found out I have the same issue. My volvo DP's are stuck on the drive and the prop puller is not working. The marina told me there letting them soak and will try again but I have a feeling that wont help..so I may be using your idea.
 
Quint, yes, I mean "pump" the hydraulic jack on the puller like a car jack, no air or compressor required. On the pictures you can also see the bar used to "pump".

I let mine soak too, but that did nothing at all. I also sprayed penetrating oil and solvent for days and the fact is that when the props came out, the salt and corrosion powder deposits that was in the splines was dry as a bone.

If you are going to try this, remember to use a string to go first behind the prop vanes and then use electrical tape to attach the wire cable to the string and pull it through.
 
I had this problem a couple of times. Once, I applied heat, that did the trick. I then had the prop checked including the rubber hub since I heated it. It was fine (the hub). Another trick is when the puller is all loaded up, smack the puller with a hammer to shock it. Often this helps. Me, I didn't want to smack the prop but that can be done also.
 
I called a local shop to get pricing on a rehub. they couldn't tell how much it would be for a set of volvo DP. regular props run from 70-120 they said. anybody has an idea of how much it cost to re-hub a set of F's type? thanks
 
Call another shop, one that has experience with duoprops. I don't recall having a re-hub but "tuning" and checking each hub was the same as a regular prop.....except you have two...no biggie.
 
Waterdog,
Do u use 3 seperate 1/4 steel strands or 1 strand looped all the way through? Also how do close/connect the loop with the wire or wires so it like a paperclip?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Quint

Waterdog,
Do u use 3 seperate 1/4 steel strands or 1 strand looped all the way through? Also how do close/connect the loop with the wire or wires so it like a paperclip?






Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe he used three separate 1/4" cables with two cable clamps on each cable.

Doug
 
For easy explanation I described how to do it with three separate cables, but as a matter of fact I used a single one (12 ft long). go in/out kind of like sewing the prop to the extractor making the loops, then when you finish going around you will end where you started. make it tight so the puler is as close to the shaft and clamp with at least 2 cable clamps. make sure the clamps are the proper size for the cable.
 
Waterdog..
I am able to get the rear prop off but not the front one.

Do you think this puller would work using the 3 jaws supplied with the puller? I am having trouble locating the 1/4 cable needed.
Thanks,
FB
 
Waterdog- that was a great tip for a slick puller. Any damage to the front of the vanes the cable pulled on?
 
quote:

Originally posted by FB400

Waterdog..
I am able to get the rear prop off but not the front one.

Do you think this puller would work using the 3 jaws supplied with the puller? I am having trouble locating the 1/4 cable needed.
Thanks,
FB






FB400, the supplied jaws will not hold the back of the front prop. the cable is available at any hardware store like home depot, ace, etc.
give it a try.
 
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