Installed new starter on Starboard engine with CW starter. After engine started and running in neutral for 4 minutes, the solenoid randomly engaged from the grinding noise. I though it was blower fan making the noise. I started engine again and solenoid starter gear stuck on flywheel at the start and would not reset back. almost like ignition switch randomly stuck on. I also have hot wired neutral safety switch and will correct this asap. Will new ignition switch solve problem? I used same vendor starter CCW on the port side 6 months ago and works like a charm. Identical wires and process except ccw. There are no shims on starter bolts on both starters. Will new ignition switch solve the problem?
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1988 crusader 454 new starter stuck on grinding
- Thread starter tcarriere
- Start date
If nothing else changed, I'd suspect a defective starter problem. Compare the wiring with the working side to make sure you didn't miss wire or the ring connectors are touching each other. As for shims, I'd put the original ones back on if there were any. If the neutral safety switch only has two wires I would not believe jumpering the wires would cause the problem. Disconnect the wires after it starts to see.
How did you "hot wire" the neutral safety switch? If you just connected together the 2 wires to it that should bypass that switch without causing your starter problem. But if you introduced an always-hot lead as "hot-wire" that would energize the solenoid & starter. Once it starts, disconnect the "hot -wire" and see if that helps.
Usually on the standard LH/CCW engines, replacement starters will be the lighter "noseless" permanent magnet type, but this one on the RH CW engine would be the old heavy type as I don't think they make the new type for that rotation starter. That difference shouldn't affect the wiring up, so as Stephen suggests, make sure the stbd is wired just like the port and no wires are touching others they are not supposed to.
Confirm the new solenoid terminals are labeled the same in same position.
You may have it wired perfectly, but it's always good to label wires and terminal connections and diagram them before disconnecting even when we think the connections are obvious before disconnecting.
http://slawecki.com/Penn Yan/Penn Y...uff/#single:crusader%20generic%20wiring72.jpg
http://slawecki.com/Penn%20Yan/Penn%20Yan%20Info/crusader%20wiring%20stuff/Crusader%20wiring%20diagram.gif?asatt=1&variant=raw
http://www.obbstartersandalternator...age-or-cause-the-engine-to-start-whats-wrong/
Don't replace anything w/o testing to find where the power is coming from. Does your ign sw. key easily return to the On/Run position or is it sticky at the Start position? Not a bad habit to wiggle the key a scosh when returning to ON from Start
Hope there is a simple solution .
Usually on the standard LH/CCW engines, replacement starters will be the lighter "noseless" permanent magnet type, but this one on the RH CW engine would be the old heavy type as I don't think they make the new type for that rotation starter. That difference shouldn't affect the wiring up, so as Stephen suggests, make sure the stbd is wired just like the port and no wires are touching others they are not supposed to.
Confirm the new solenoid terminals are labeled the same in same position.
You may have it wired perfectly, but it's always good to label wires and terminal connections and diagram them before disconnecting even when we think the connections are obvious before disconnecting.
http://slawecki.com/Penn Yan/Penn Y...uff/#single:crusader%20generic%20wiring72.jpg
http://slawecki.com/Penn%20Yan/Penn%20Yan%20Info/crusader%20wiring%20stuff/Crusader%20wiring%20diagram.gif?asatt=1&variant=raw
http://www.obbstartersandalternator...age-or-cause-the-engine-to-start-whats-wrong/
Don't replace anything w/o testing to find where the power is coming from. Does your ign sw. key easily return to the On/Run position or is it sticky at the Start position? Not a bad habit to wiggle the key a scosh when returning to ON from Start
Hope there is a simple solution .
Thanks all. I will also hook up test light on starter positive lead to ensure light only goes on when turning ignition key hard right through spring loading. when letting go the light should turn off. Somebody left the breaker bracket and slave coil flopping on floor of boat and it needs to be attached to starter bolt to complete the circuit. I know sounds crazy. How did it work before? Well someone ran black wire from battery and it touched the flopping bracket when you moved the stick sifter. I know this is very concerning but the truth. My daughters started and drove the boat 5 times last summer until the no start happened on both starters. Replaced port side and works like charm and then i finally found the 50 amp breaker and bracket laying underneath the engine. someone took the bracket off and did not put back on starter because trouble reaching the wires. I know sounds terrible but the truth.
The old starter was shot. The original hacker had put 2 hose clamps around the solenoid because it was falling apart and also left the 50 amp breaker and bracket with slave solenoid off and flopping on the bottom of the boat. I replaced both starters and will resolve wiring issue/ignition key and one more new starter to boot. Dear old 62 year old dad loves his daughters! I paired the old and new starter next to each other and measured the extended Bendex gear to the stopper ring/washer from the flat mounting surface and they both are a perfect match. there are no shims on these old starters when mounted on the boat. The same type of CCW from same vendor has been working perfect and no grinding. I had fun hanging over the top of the engine until blood rushed to my head and boat rocking in the waves installing the starter and troubleshooting. Only way to get the starter.