I had my boat bottom painted a year ago. Didn't use the boat for more than 20 hours. Noticed that after they power washed the hull recently that there were a lot of places where the outer coat has come off and the primer is visible. Should this be happening?
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Bottom Paint
- Thread starter joeregal
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2007
- RO Number
- 28240
- Messages
- 1,772
No it should not. It sounds like they let too much time go by before they put the antifouling paint on...there is a time limit as to when you can apply over top of the primer. If you go over that limit, you need to reapply the primer and start over. B!tch at the place that did it for you...they should redo it if they're respectable
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2004
- RO Number
- 12880
- Messages
- 116
If the primer you are referring to is a Barrier Coat, they are an epoxy and there are specific time limits that additional coats and the top coat can be applied and the "open time" is not very long before a tie coat must be applied otherwise, the epoxy hardens over and the top coat has nothing to bond to.
Joe;
there are many reasons why the bottom paint would come off with a powerwash. can you post more details;
do you know the type of primer/barrier coat that was used, also the type of fouling paint that was installed.
was the boat dry or wet stored this past season.
when it was powerwashed was the tech trying to lightly wash off the slime, or was he/she trying to avoid sanding it for a new coat and aggresively trying to remove the paint?
is the fouling paint the only coat of paint over the primer or are there multiple coats, if more than one which one is loosing its bond.
the more info you can post here, the better your answers will be.
there are many reasons why the bottom paint would come off with a powerwash. can you post more details;
do you know the type of primer/barrier coat that was used, also the type of fouling paint that was installed.
was the boat dry or wet stored this past season.
when it was powerwashed was the tech trying to lightly wash off the slime, or was he/she trying to avoid sanding it for a new coat and aggresively trying to remove the paint?
is the fouling paint the only coat of paint over the primer or are there multiple coats, if more than one which one is loosing its bond.
the more info you can post here, the better your answers will be.
If the ant-fouling paint is flaking off and the barrier coat is intact, then it is either aproblem with how the anti-fouling was applied or too aggressive with power wash. If the barrier coat is intact as I surmise from your post, the problem isn't there or with the hull. Kind of a good news , bad news situation. Joe asked all the right questions.
I was just reading information about Interprotect 2000 barrier coat. According to them, the anti-fouling paint should be applied while the Interprotect is still tacky. If the Interprotect is tack free , then they say it's too late to apply the anti-fouling paint!
Great input. I believe the tech was just power washing slime off. The boat has been out of the water in outside storage. I will check with the dealer to see what he applied. Thanks again. Regal Forum always my best source of information.
If the primer and the paint are coming off the hull was not prepared properly. If there is any wax or oil, or if the area to be painted is very smooth and glossy paint won't stick. Best idea is to LIGHTLY sand the application area then wipe down with acetone. At a minimum wipe down with acetone to remove wax and/or oil.
Joe;
if you are confident that the paint was not soft from wet storage and the powerwash was not too agressive, then it sounds like a bond failure. this can be caused by a number of factors, contamination, poor application practice or using incompatible products. if you can identify what products were used, contact those mfgs. and find out if they will work togther. not all work well together. also look at where the paint came off, ie is it sheeting in large open areas or in high wear areas, around metal thru hulls etc. if the failure is in large open sheets that are not specific to wear or potential heat/electrolisis i would think application or product compatibility is where the failure is.
if you are confident that the paint was not soft from wet storage and the powerwash was not too agressive, then it sounds like a bond failure. this can be caused by a number of factors, contamination, poor application practice or using incompatible products. if you can identify what products were used, contact those mfgs. and find out if they will work togther. not all work well together. also look at where the paint came off, ie is it sheeting in large open areas or in high wear areas, around metal thru hulls etc. if the failure is in large open sheets that are not specific to wear or potential heat/electrolisis i would think application or product compatibility is where the failure is.