bravo 3 shaft end play -- can i run it?

[alk]

This morning I was bolting my props on, and noticed I have WAY too much end play - when I pull on the outer prop I can move it back and forth - at least 1/8th inch, perhaps more. At first I thought the prop was just loose, and my torque wrench was broken. But no, prop is torqued, entire shaft is moving back and forth.

Of course a week before Memorial Day, no one is going to be able to look at it for weeks.

Looking at some service manuals on line, I believe the end play is adjusted via shims, and is supposed to be .005 to .010. What it doesn't say is whether or not I will do more damage running it for several weeks in it's current state. I am guessing I will? Anyone know? I suppose it was like this last summer, and I never noticed?

Another lost season while I wait for this one to be rebuilt? If so, this may be it for me and boating. Or maybe run it till it fails, and then buy a new lower?

 

[j-d]

Title says "End Play" and I think that's what you mean, but please clarify: The text says "back and forth." You still mean end play, in and out, right?

One thing you can easily do, is remove the lower gearcase drain plug. If it's got metal chips/shards on it, that gearcase will fail more like sooner than like later.

Do you change your own outdrive lubricant? If you do, how does what comes out of that plug, look like compared to the past?

Bravo drives circulate their lubricant well. This means that IF the lower gearcase is making metal shreds, they'll likely make their way to the upper gearcase and damage it also.

 

[alk]

it's not side to side - when I say in and out, I guess out is straight back, same direction I would pull to remove the prop.
I did not notice anything when I changed the fluid last fall, but probably wasn't looking as lose as I should have been.

I got the term end play from this manual. http://www.boatfix.com/merc/techbk/94/94hse3.pdf

Check Prop Shaft End Play 3E-8
on page 3E-8
Check Prop Shaft End Play
End play reading: .001-.050 in. (0.025-1.27 mm)

Interestingly the shop i called this morning said they were going to do some research and get back to me - and surprisingly he just called me back. His thinking is that the new style lowers make use of a crush ring, and had have very little end play - .001.

But he says the older style that used shims did in fact have some end play, and 1/8th is ok. Not 100% sure I am comfortable with this answer, sure wish GVP was still around to give the truth, but it does allow me to go boating this weekend, so i think I'll go with it. The shop has been in business since 1953 and licensed mercruiser repair nearly as long, so guess I'm good.

 

[pdecat]

First let me say i don't know those drives however looking at the drawings raises questions. No comment was made on the link about how to adjust end play.

JD Looks to me that the endplay is controlled by shims. Torquing just seems to control bearing preload is that correct?. is that correct and are they designed for adjustment?

ALK has this drive been apart previously because if there is no metal in the oil then it may be improper shimming.