Well gang last weekend I had a bad experience with the winch on my trailer. A word of caution to all who winch a larger boat onto a cheap trailer. I bought a 2008 2565 last August and the dealer gave me a really nice loaner trailer, worked great all last summer no problems. I did not have to power load, wiching was easy. I got my trailer in November, this is the first season with it. Needless to say I was having trouble getting the boat all the way up to the front bow roller. While in the parking lot, I tried to release the tension on the winch to adjust the front roller and bammmmmm, the winch unwound with the force of a small exposion. In the process hitting my hand and breaking my index finger. Looks like I will be power loading from here. What are your thoughts on power loading? I feel that it is dangerous and puts a lot of pressure on the tow vehicle and boat?? I am not a big fan of Eagle Trailers now, their design is dated and could use an upgrade. The bunks sit high due to leaf spring axles, there bunks are longer, the wich is does not have a brake on it, cheap tires, already a leak in one brake line. Always spend the extra money and get the trailer upgrade its worth it.
Broken Finger
- Thread starter borst
- Start date
I boat on a river and most boats are stored on land on their trailer. Boats are launched and retrieved by the marina using a tractor. All boats are power loaded. At 6200 lbs, mine is about the biggest they do. The drivers will help direct the boat on the trailer. Once on the trailer, I give it throttle to get the boat up on the rollers. Most times I rev 3500-4500 rpms and they assit by using the winch for the last foot or so.
I guess power loading is my only option. Its just almost impossible to do alone when all those weekend guest have left. I just find it hard to belive that my first loaner trailer was so easy to load and now this Eagle trailer is almost impossible. I also think since the lake is up, the dock is not as steep.
I have placed a call to my marina, trying to get a slip with a hydrohoist. Now the only problem, the hydrohoist has to be modified so I can back my boat into the slip. The marina wants me to pay for this labor. Not sure what I will do yet. Its hard typing with a broken index finger (-:::
Everyone be carefull around the winch
I have placed a call to my marina, trying to get a slip with a hydrohoist. Now the only problem, the hydrohoist has to be modified so I can back my boat into the slip. The marina wants me to pay for this labor. Not sure what I will do yet. Its hard typing with a broken index finger (-:::
Everyone be carefull around the winch
Also please be careful power loading. Safest way is to be the only person in the boat so nobody gets taken by surprise when you gas it. Same applies to climbing the boat onto a floating dock. There are documented serious injury cases and at least one death to passengers.
Power loading is also murder on the bottom of the launch area unless the ramp was built for it, but if it's allowed then it's OK.
Power loading is also murder on the bottom of the launch area unless the ramp was built for it, but if it's allowed then it's OK.
I am not sure what you mean by unsafe? I putt-putt up to the trailer. The hull will contact the rollers and I apply the throttle progressively until the tractor driver motions to stop. I then progressively back off the throttle
When I power load, it takes near WOT to get the boat to even move a little. Honestly it feels like the boat is going to jump the tow vehicle. Not sure I like the power loading option, but since my winch is cheap, looks like I will be power loading this season.
We have a #2665 (about 6800lbs)and know what you're going through! We have a Load-rite trailer with rollers, instead of bunks. It has taken us a lot of practice to feel comfortable when loading the boat at the ramp. With 2 people, one at the winch and one on the boat, using a combination of power loading and keeping tension on the winch at the same time. Hardest part is keeping the ratchet "dog" in the correct position while cranking the boat in, without it slipping. I usally operate the winch, while standing on the v - frame of the trailer, so I can maintain eye contact with the person at the helm, using hand signals, indicating how much throttle to maintain to keep up, with my cranking. Most of all, take your time and keep your cool! The biggest danger I've found is losing your grip on the crank handle if the "dog" slips off the cog of the wench. Again maintaining enough throttle, keeps tension of the wench cable to a minimum. Once the bow and bow eye is close to the trailer roller stop, I connect the safety chain through the bow eye and have the person at the helm back off the throttle, raise the outdrive to trailer position and shut the engine down. With the winch cog locked, and safety chain in place, I pull the rig (trailer & boat) off the ramp, to level ground. once there, I can crank the winch a few more turns to move the boat forward enough to be fully against the roller. Usaully it's the admiral driving the boat on the trailer (and off when launching) We review the procedure beforehand. She understands how much throttle to apply to keep the boat moving forward or still, without it moving backwards. Also have found that some adjustment of backing up the truck and trailer a foot or two(or pulling forward) can make a differance, depending on the incline of the ramp. Take your time & keep your cool! Good luck!
lamebeck4, it seems that you have it down, I like your trailer. I think my trailer is a big problem, too much friction. As I stated, my first loaner trailer was great no problems. Its this new Eagle trailer that really creates the poblem. The trailer is short in length and has high bunks, I have to almost put the bed of the truck in the water. Also the winch is just down right cheap.. Going to try some different methods next time. I notice that you have to remove the anchor, so far I have not had to take mine from the windless.
Borst, Our 1st boat, a 19' cuddy had a bunk trailer and even though the boat was less weight, I would have to back the trailer down the ramp further and almost "float" the boat on the trailer.
Yes, I had removed the anchor before attempting to load/unload after snagging the anchor. (I don't normally "remove" the anchor, just set it up on the bow, but I was packing up for the end of the season, last year) I want to modify the winch / bow stop roller and position it lower on the main support to prevent that from being an issue.
Walshie, I think the risk is minimal, because the resistance of the prop spinning in the water (for forward motion) is pretty smooth, not too concerned about the cable snapping. Good communication with the operator is important. with practice you can judge increase on the throttle, as it relates to boat movement up on the trailer.
And no, that is'nt the admiral helping me!
Also wanted to mention that I have been thinking of installing an electric winch, not sure if I can find one with enough rated capacity for our boat - and would have to run heavy duty 12v power to the rear bumper to make it practical. I'll post some more pics...
Yes, I had removed the anchor before attempting to load/unload after snagging the anchor. (I don't normally "remove" the anchor, just set it up on the bow, but I was packing up for the end of the season, last year) I want to modify the winch / bow stop roller and position it lower on the main support to prevent that from being an issue.
Walshie, I think the risk is minimal, because the resistance of the prop spinning in the water (for forward motion) is pretty smooth, not too concerned about the cable snapping. Good communication with the operator is important. with practice you can judge increase on the throttle, as it relates to boat movement up on the trailer.
And no, that is'nt the admiral helping me!
Also wanted to mention that I have been thinking of installing an electric winch, not sure if I can find one with enough rated capacity for our boat - and would have to run heavy duty 12v power to the rear bumper to make it practical. I'll post some more pics...
I can't see the pix at work so excuse me if this is a repeat.
Does the bunk of the trailer extend to the end of the boat? If not, you have too small a trailer. If you can't trade your current trailer in on a roller model, you could apply WD40 to the carpet or attach some teflon to the skids.
If the trailer is the proper length and the problem is the ramp, you could make a tongue extension very inexpensively that would allow you the almost float the boat off the trailer and back on.
Does the bunk of the trailer extend to the end of the boat? If not, you have too small a trailer. If you can't trade your current trailer in on a roller model, you could apply WD40 to the carpet or attach some teflon to the skids.
If the trailer is the proper length and the problem is the ramp, you could make a tongue extension very inexpensively that would allow you the almost float the boat off the trailer and back on.
well gang it looks like I will try to back the trailer way down into the water. I guess I will float the boat onto the trailer. Yes, my trailer is just designed for my 2565, it states this on the tongue of the trailer. The bunks fit the boat perfectly, they are just longer I think there is more surface area than my pervious trailer. going to try some bunk lube or silicone spray to help.