Cable oiler

b_f,

Yes, disconnect whatever you have to in order to be able to clamp the OHB Lube Kit Hose to the cable casing. In case of an outboard [OMC] I had to take the connector off the end of the cable. In my case, 1/4" hose worked. Whichever end is easier.
 
Good bump Carver....As I was reading this, I thought to myself "I remember reading this before a few years ago", not realizing the age of the post. I guess they are right, the mind is the first thing to go. [:-banghead]
 
Mind?...what mind?...bump?...what bump?...you have a bump on your mind?...strange....

Thought this was a very useful and helpful tip for looking after cables, so I gave it the "CB"..Carver Bump...
It's something I am going to try in the spring....
 
Rigged a similar thing using a small bicycle tire pump & Mouse Milk. took a bit longer to work the oil thru the cables. But seemed to work fine. frankly, I never thought the cables would handle that much pressure. Great idea
 
I don't see a reason why this wouldn't work on a steering cable. The one I looked at seemed to call for 3/4" hose. There are tire valves that would wedge into 3/4" and then be clamped.
If it was "rotary" steering like most outboards, the oiler could be used from either end. Our I/O is rack steering, so the oiler would have to be put at the outdrive end. Just getting in there is such a PITA that I think I'd just get a new cable.
 
Just bumping this up in case anyone needs to work on their cables this winter.

Thanks to OHB for this one.
 
This post is good enough for me to make it a sticky. Now it will be available right on the main menu.
 
Steering cables have the same construction as throttle and shift cables only bigger. You would have to up the size of the hose. HOWEVER: steering cable failure is more of a hazard than throttle or shift. Let us know your results. Note: this has been discussed higher up in this thread.
 
Saved and will be tried on my 26 YO cables. Steering stays lubed. It's hydraulic.
 
here's a good bump for everyone.

I remembered this and did a search.

I'm doing an adjustment this weekend for WOT and will do this at the same time.

GOOD BUMP !

RWS
 
FWIW - older cables that were solely steel jacketed could receive some benefit from cable lubricants.
Going back 15 years or more most marine control and steering cables started being lined with Teflon or similar types of liners which should not be lubricated.

If you do introduce a petroleum based lube into these cables the Teflon liner will most often soften and swell leaving you with more issues a year after lubing them. If you must send something down into these 'plastic' jacketed cables please consider a non petroleum based lube such as "Superlube" and avoid the light penetrating solutions such as WD-40 at all costs. There is a reason why most all current marine control cable suppliers have Q & A's that tell us to not lube these 'permanently lubricated' type cables.

I have had this same situation exhibited but much worse in the "teflon bearing surfaces" of a larger davit pivot which would completely 'lock in place' after petroleum products were used. It became so common on these davits that we wrote up a procedure to fix them complete with photo's and a step by step process.

Hope this helps
 
I used this method to lube a windshield wiper motor shaft that was binding and grinding. It looks like it saved the motor.
 
When i was a kid I purchased a cable last be device for short cables on bikes. It was a 25 CC syringe with a clear hose attached to it. Hose had a split rubber stopper on end of it, clamped over the end of the cable. Injected oil into he cable until it ran out the other end.
 
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