Reposted for Canada:
Originally Posted - Apr 10 2007 : 10:06:27 PM
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The Art of Rafting:
I have not posted pics for a while as I basically ran out of ideas. However, inspired by Megrue and his lists and how to’s I thought of something that I don’t recall being discussed in detail which is how to form a raft up.
It's a little long and after I typed it up, I didn't realize how much goes into a simple raft up.
Rafting boats can be a little intimating for the novice ‘rafter’.
The fear of hitting and doing damage to each other’s boats is always in front of your mind.
Generally, our group has a raft every weekend in one form or another and I think we have become pretty good at it so I thought I would share some ideas that the forum could use, brush up on, add to, or just get back in the mood.
Rule # 1 to Rule # 50 – as mentioned above, this applies double to even actual docking where you could only damage your own boat or the dock versus someone else’s ie: GO SLOW as in VERY VERY SLOW. In some cases with the wind you need to put on a little speed but …. If this is the case, you shouldn’t probably be rafting in the first place until conditions die down.
Definitions:
Rafter is the boat that is moving and joining the raft.
Raftee is the boat already anchored and set and is waiting to accept the ‘rafter’.
Assumption:
I am assuming at all times that the raft will take place in such a manner that the stern is closest to shore in shallower water to allow for swimming or water play off the swim platform in shallow water with bows facing out into the elements (wind and waves) hence all rafters are required to back in as opposed to coming up from behind.
Megrue posted the how to anchor thread so we will pick it up from there.
• When rafting the first boat needs to use both a stern and bow anchor and be set solid. It is virtually impossible to raft with a boat that is held only by the bow anchor (swinging) as the two boats will always move away from each other ie: you will chase a moving target.
• Typically the larger boat would anchor first and after setting up their anchors will deploy their fenders in such a position that will adequately protect the rub rails of both vessels. This is because the larger boat (the raftee) usually has the larger size of fenders.
• While the first boat is setting their anchors the 2nd boat is holding off shore and will be getting all their lines and if necessary their anchors ready for the approach. Usually the rafter is the one that gets their lines ready for hand off. You can deploy your fenders as a rafter however, sometimes this is not a good thing as the 2 sets of fenders can and do get caught up with each other creating undesirable results. Once rafted the 2nd set of fenders can be set to cover off potential areas of concern or just double up protection.
• If it is just a day raft with two boats it is not necessary to set anchors for the 2nd boat. If it is an overnight anchor it is desirable for both vessels to be set with at minimum 2 bow anchors and 1 stern. We prefer 2 and 2 for the sense of ease of mind when sleeping, in case one or more anchors break loose. The 4 anchors in most cases will be set at opposite angles from the four corners ie: heading out in a direction of perhaps 30 degrees away from the raft in 4 directions.
• It is always best to come on from the windward side with the breeze (note I said breeze – not wind) pushing you onto the raftee whereby you back and come along side and let the breeze just nudge you gently in conjunction with using your drive(s) as in normal docking.
• In those cases where you have to come from the leeward side (the breeze is trying to blow you off or away from the raftee) I prefer to point the stern in more towards the other boat so that in the event that it just seems impossible to get along side, you can hand off a line, have the raftee cleat the stern line loosely and then with a gentle idle forward, the bow of the rafter will naturally come around and join up with the raftee in such a manner as crew can then hand off lines to secure and then bring in and secure the stern line.
• Note: when rafting never, never, never throw a line to the other boat. Always hand off to the other crew. Too many lines can drop in the water and around your props.
• Worse case, as in above when coming on the leeward side and things just aren’t working to get close enough to hand off, you can always tie a quick bowline at the end of your line and hand it off using your dock pole extended out.
• When the rafter is backing down towards the raftee and dropping chain or rode at the same time, be generous with paying out. As in the anchoring thread on the way back, you can intermittently set the anchor however, when getting close pay out lots of extra as you are going to need to swing the bow over to join the raft. Chain is the hardest as the weight of the chain itself can make it difficult to get the bow swung parallel to the raftee. Once secured and tied up, you can then bring in the rode to tighten up and set the anchor.
• Once rafted, a spring line or two should be set to keep the boats even at the swim platform.
• If building a raft with more than 2 boats, the center boat doesn’t need to anchor. More than 3 you start thinking about every other boat with the exception of the smallest ones that wouldn’t add value.
• Bigger boats should be in the middle building to smaller on the edges.
• Consider what side is the geni exhaust on. With a 4260 it is on port and 3560 is on starboard ie: the raft should be the same. The best is a 4260 (port) and 3560 (stb) with a 3860/3880 in the middle as the geni exhaust is under the swim platform. Saves on clean up from fumes and diesel smut on your swim platform plus much safer.
• Also consider on a smaller raft where the a/c exits so if you do run the air in a southern climate as an example, it does not necessarily splash on the neighbor’s boat.
• Speaking of safety, dependent upon the rafting order, be very careful with the geni when running it early in the morning to make that coffee if no one is up in the boat beside you as your fumes (Carbon Monoxide) can easily go into their cabin.
• Also on the subject of safety, what is worse than falling off your boat? Answer: falling between rafted boats ….. major chance of head and other bodily injury. No horse play or running up the sides when rafted
• Consider matching heights of swim platforms (Cruisers Inc are incredibly high compared to Regals).
• Don’t forget the purpose of a raft up, which is to meet and greet with friends hopping from boat to boat.
• Therefore, for those boats that do not have an extended swim platform, put them on the ends as they are very difficult to get over and thru without an extended platform.
• When breaking up the raft it is basically the same thing in reverse and if the bow anchors are set right, the boats will naturally split apart without much action from the throttles initially. BUT, it is some times quite easy to forget that after you have been in a raft up for a day or two, it is you that has the anchor down. Don’t forget to check and bring it back up (seriously) – we’ve seen it a couple of times with boats pulling away with their anchors down.
• If for some reason a boat has to leave and they are in the middle of the raft, just take a line (or tie two together) and throw it over the center boat (from boat A to boat C with B in the middle). Boat C then can loosen their anchor lines. Boat B can then be moved slowly by hand out from between A and C whilst their crew keeps the lines over the radar arch. Once B is out, boats A and C can then gently pull each other back together again using the lines and then boat C can re-set the anchors.
• When rafted, always do a periodic anchor check – especially before sundown (before it gets too dark) to make sure there is still tension on the anchor lines and they are still set securely with no slack in the anchor lines.
• If you don’t feel comfortable being the rafter and dropping rode/chain at the same time, you can just raft up and then using a dinghy, take the bow anchor back out to deep water. This works OK with combination rope & chain but with all chain, it is almost impossible due to the weight to deploy it by hand at any distance from the boat.
• When rafting the Captain never leaves his station until both crews have control of the lines.
• Speaking of Captains, there is only one Raft Captain (usually the first one in but not necessary). He will call the shots. Nothing worse than trying to listen to 4 people (including the better half) telling you what to do at the same time. Listen and focus in on the Raft Captain.
• Sometimes (and this is safer than it sounds) when rafting in a beach type location, where you want to get in as close as possible, it is OK to stand in the water to give the rafter an idea of depth he is approaching especially with inboards versus I/O’s that can be trimmed right up. Eg; I know a 4260 needs depth up to my chest. It is just an indication and a target. Obviously, when those props start coming in, you get the heck out of the way.
• And, if you do have a novice rafter that feels really uncomfortable for the first few times (especially with a new boat they are not used to), there is no shame to have a bunch of guys jump in the water, have the rafter get in relatively close, full stop and then shut the engines down. The guys in the water can then grab the boat and manhandle it over to the raft. Usually you need minimum three guys – one at both front and rear controlling speed and direction and one at the side pushing the boat onto the raft.
• There is also no shame if you don’t get it on the first try (even for an expert), don’t be the hero. Just pull out, set up better and try it again.
• Expect the unexpected. I remember Jackie J IV was just about backed into the raft when his engines cut out due to an electrical short. It was a few interesting minutes as I ended up using my dinghy as a tugboat to push him into position.
• When building a big raft and the wind changes and or wave action increases, the raft will start to ‘snake’ ie: form its own wave action. The boat(s) in the middle will get the heck beat out of them up to and including ripping cleats out as the boats on the far starboard are bouncing up and forward while the boats on the far port are bouncing down and rearward. To fix, just break the raft in two or three as required.
• When rafting in a busy anchorage (example beach type location with people walking around (or for that matter a single boat anchored), and you are using a stern line, it is a good idea to mark with a fender or ball or at least brightly paint your stern anchor so that people walking around can see it and not break their toes.
• Rafting with planes is a different story for another day.
• And finally, if anchoring or rafting, using a stern line, and you are close to land and can legally do it (ie: trespassing), instead of using a stern anchor, just take your stern line, cleat it on one side of your swim platform, take it around a tree and bring it back and cleat it to the other side of your swim platform. That way, when you are ready to go, just un-do the one cleat and pull it back around the tree without getting your feet wet.
Enjoy.
Kathy & Greg
Knottiii Grotto
2006-3560
Hot Knots Landing Orillia, Ontario
