Depthfinder install ...

RV-Dean

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2007
RO Number
25496
Messages
16
I have started my depth finder install and I am having a hard time believing part of the instructions. This is a thru-hull sounder and it is having me attach the dead-rise adaptor and mounting bas to the hull with GE Silicone II like you buy to caulk you windows a doors with. I even called the manufacture and double checked that this would be OK.

I am letting it cure up but I am skeptical that his will hold over time. Nut just hold but keep a water tight base seal because it must be filled with glycol based antifreeze.

Have any of you had success mounting this this way?
 
If you are referring to a shoot-thru in-hull installation of Airmar's M260 or M199 in the box, according to their website they no longer recommend silicone to attach the box to the hull:

" Question
Can I use silcone sealant to install my new M260 in-hull tank?

Answer
Silicone sealant is no longer recommended to bond the New M260 tank to the hull.

New M260 in-hull tanks can be mounted with one the following approved products:

Marine-Tex (14 oz)
Fiberglass resin
Bondo 401
West Marine Boaters Resin "

You were probably wise to hesitate as there have been many reports of leaks with the silcone.
 
Sandy,

thanks for the reply but I think mine is different. Like I said I called them a double checked. If this does not hold then it will simply slide around in the bilge but no leak.
 
I was just getting ready to post a similar question. I am gettingr ready to install a new thru hull on my boat and wanted information on best way to do it.
So what method are you going to use?
 
Guys - not to be a PITA, but let's make sure the terminology is right. There is a huge difference on the install and therefore the advice given.

Thru-hull: you cut a hole in the bottom of the boat; the transducer goes thru the hull.

In-hull or shoot-thru: no hole cut in the hull. A tank-mounted transducer is attached to the inside bottom of the hull. The tank is filled with fluid, and the transducer signals pass through the hull.

RV Dean - what brand and model transducer did you get? If you don't know, list the electronics manufacturer and describe the trandsducer.

Chrisv - same questions.
 
Thanks for the clarification. I always want to use the correct terminology. Mine is a “Shoot-thru”. The whole kit is a Faria. However, the transducer is likely a second party supplier. It is in my boat ... I will check today and post again.

Last night I opted to try it as the directions recommend. I used a GE Silicon II caulk to adhere the "tank" to the bilge. If it does not hold I will simply look at other options. I feel though that it simply a matter of time before I am caulking AND screwing this tank down.
 
Is there a best place to mount these shoot thru transducers?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Selby

Is there a best place to mount these shoot thru transducers?






Yes, the recommendation is different for different hull types. The "tank" or bracket that is mounted to the hull is design to adjust for dead-rise so that the transducer face is pointed vertical.
 
For a shoot-thru, you need to have access to a clean area of the hull bottom. Generally, they need to be adhered to the hull bottom so that there are no air gaps. Depending on the model, either the entire tank is embedded in expoxy and filled with fluid, or just the edge is sealed and the the tank filled with fluid. To work properly there can be no air gap.

If you have a stepped hull, it is also advisable to mount and transducer ahead of the first step. The steps create turbulance and aerated water, which degrades the transducer performance.

I don't know for sure, but suspect that the in-hull transducer for Faria is OEMed by Airmar. You could go to Airmar's site and look up the installation instructions for in-hull units. They have very good isntructions.
 
My bad, mine is a shoot thru also. This is what you get for trying to do five things at one time.
I will look up the Airmar website.
 
I have checked and mine is an Airmar Model P79. The instructions say: "DO NOT use an epoxy adhesive, polyurethane based sealant, or the previously recommended Boatlife, Life Seal or 3M 4200."

It goes on to say: "....apply a generous bead of silicone sealant (such as GE Silicone II) to the underside of the flange of the base."

Once all that is done (and it is by me) is says to fill the base with 2.4 fl. oz. of mineral oil or propylene glycol. When I call Airmar they said they no longer recommend mineral oil because it can break down the silicon and that any environmentally safe anti-freeze will work.

Doesn't RV/Marine Anti-freeze have propylene glycol in it?
 
quote:

Originally posted by RV-Dean

Doesn't RV/Marine Anti-freeze have propylene glycol in it?






Yup. Use that stuff. I'm not sure that it matters which version is used; AF with lower temp ratings has a higher concentration of propolylene glycol.
 
Back
Top