Docking without crew

ajschwab

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Feb 9, 2002
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I have a 35' crusier and while have been docking it by myself at my dock I am still having a dificult time docking paralell to a fuel dock without anyone else on the boat

There is uusally someone on the boat dock but when there is not I have a heck of a time tieing up

Anyone with a working method I woulkd appreciate the benefit of your experience
 
Have a breast line ready and as you pull up get the cleat your breast line is attached to lined up with a cleat or pole on the dock and run the line around the cleat or pole and back to the one on your boat and tie yourself off very tight with the two cleats lined up across from each other. That way the boat can't move forward, backward or let the bow or stern blow off the dock. Then just tie off your bow and stern.

Or use a spring line running aft from a forward cleat on your boat to a cleat on the dock that lines up about midships or a bit forward of that. Tie that line off first. Then turn your stern into the dock and keep the engine in idle. If you have twins just keep the engine closest to the dock in gear with the rudders turned so the stern is force to the dock. Then tie off the rest of your lines starting with the stern.

Then again you can cleat off your stern first using the inside cleat on your boat closest to the dock and pull forward on that line which should pull and hold you into the dock while you tie off your other lines.
 
Docking on a new dock,I put a bow,spring,and stern line on, making sure that they can't fall overboard and get into the props. Get the boat to the dock and get the spring cleat as close to a dock tie off as you can. Get off and tie the spring line, then the bow and the stern. Then retie the spring line right.
 
Due to wind I had a situation where the only way I could get the boat to the dock was to back upwind. Using the props like a front wheel drive car to pull me up wind worked just fine. It was a fly bridge and had a lot of sail area. So I'd back her in, then tie the stern cleat and then use my outboard engine to bring her around to the dock. We had white caps and they were breaking on the dock.
 
If wind or current was adverse, I would spring forward to the dock from my mid-cleat and, still with neutral rudder , "back" on the single, or inboard engine of twins. The hull lays snugly nice and parallel alongside the dock for as long as is needed to secure bow and stern lines.( More wind off the dock , more reverse throttle , but it shouldn't take much.)

On the other hand, if I had sprung aft and used either engine in forward the bow would tend to follow its curvature along the dock so the boat would end up at least somewhat bow in stern out even with outward rudder. That's less of a problem with longer hulls and mid-cleats further aft.
 
An express can be tricky as they often have narrow side decks making it difficult to set a tight breast line. By the time you leave the helm, go to the cockpit and up the side deck, the boat could have been blown too far for a breast line to be effective.

It s been a while since I ve had an express but what I used to do is run the bow and spring lines back to the cockpit (make sure they can't slip in the water). Bring the boat along side, go to the cockpit and secure the spring line on the dock from the cockpit. Then go back to the helm, use the engine(s) to keep the boat in place (rudder away from dock, near side engine in fwd, off side in reverse ) while tying up the stern line. Finally, for the bow line, either put the engine(s) in neutral and step on the dock holding the bow line that you ran to the cockpit, or if it's too windy and the bow might fall off, leave the engines in gear and walk to the bow to secure the bow line from the boat. Obviously don't want to step off the boat with the engines in gear :)

With wind or current blowing you off the dock, remember that you may need to come in a little faster and use momentum to your advantage.

An alternative, is to step on the dock as soon as the boat is close to the dock while holding both the stern and bow line. Quickly secure the stern line, then the bow line. It works with a small boat although you need to make sure you can safely step on the dock and quickly tie the lines before the bow gets blown off. The larger the boat, the more risky it is. If you need to pull the bow back in against a strong breeze or current, work the line on the cleat to get more leverage.
 
After seeing a picture of your type of boat the best tricks would be getting a mid spring or short stern line on first.
 
I won't add to the specifics everyone else noted, other than to essentially agree with them. I will add one rule I try very very hard to follow since I single hand almost exclusively. I do NOT leave the boat until I have it secured. Secured usually means a minimum of one line tied if that line will stabilize her position, so in the worst case scenario, i can't actually lose the boat. At 48 feet, I can't manhandle the boat. This rule sounds simple, but sometimes its not. I may mean that I have to quickly get back to the controls, if I miss my window to get a line on the dock. I don't take the chance of hopping off with a line or two in hand under the assumption that I always have enough time to get at least one tied. Sometimes...you miss. If you do, I'd much rather be on the boat with options than on the dock watching helplessly. It can take longer to tie a boat from the boat than from the dock, so you have to factor for that. It means you might only get one line on instead of two before returning to the controls. This means you have to think about what you likely will be doing when you return to the controls after tying that one line and maybe have rudder set up before you leave. As always, single handing means being very good at planning and contingency. You have to know what your trigger point will be to abandon and go to plan b before you get to that trigger point. If you don't, you will find reasons to take chances you can't afford and wind up in a spot with few options.

For my boat, the easiest line to tie, the one I have the most reach is from the swim step, often kneeling. It follows then that if I can't get any other line on, I'll be trying to find a way to bring the stern closest to the dock, get as short a line as possible to maximize line leverage and then often I'll return to the controls and use that tied line as a pivot point to force the bow in using props and rudder. It means that LINE PLACEMENT takes precedence over what otherwise may be your preferred landing orientation if you can't ensure you can manage your line placement otherwise.

The stern line is not my "favorite" line for overall control, a well placed spring works MUCH better, but only if you can get one on. I can get a spring line on pretty quick and effective if a dock has cleats. Many of our docks in the Pacific Northwest don't have cleats, since we have floating docks piles may only be on the ends too, often its just wood bolsters you have to loop a line under and I don't do that well from 6 foot away. So again...back to the stern line, the one line I can most likely reach from my boat.

Once I have that one well secured line on, I'm willing to leave the boat, sometimes even with a single prop still in gear if that is the force needed to stabilize movement against wind or current. That may sound like a risk, but I consider it much LESS of a risk than stepping off a boat with two lines in hand with the boat nice and parallel to the dock. I've seen things change much much faster than I would have imagined possible and now I just try very very hard to avoid it.

So....consider the not leaving the boat rule and see if that changes how you view your options.
 
It really comes down to the designers of the boat. Did they think about ease of access to very important things like spring cleats? So many didn't & the singlehander is left with a difficult if not dangerous situation to deal with.

As a longtime singlehander on a 32' single & having to do it in all kinds of places & weather, method as suggested by Cap Bill is foolproof. It may not always be pretty but it works till more lines can safely be put ashore.
 
Another factor is the weight of the boat. I have hard time pulling my 40' aft cabin while I can control with two lines my son's 30 footer very easily and move it around without any problem.
 
When docking alongside my bulkhead alone I usually run a line from my midship cleat and secure the bitter end to the rear side cleat before entering the canal. Once I get alongside the dock I take that bitter end and secure it to a cleat on the dock. Either the bow, or the stern, can easily be pulled to the dock and secured on a windy day once I control the center of the boat alongside the dock.
 
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