Drain port fitting on side of hull.
- Thread starter pstew96
- Start date
If you are referring to the too-common white nylon thru hulls, they are very prone to breakage over time even without external impact. Most often hoses are not adequately secured to the boat close to the fittings. The stress of the weight of the hose connected to the barb as the hull impacts waves eventually cracks or breaks the nylon fitting.
Often the outer part just falls off, but sometimes the outer part of the fitting will stay in place and look as if the fitting was intact but the hose with the broken barb portion may have fallen down to drain in the boat, and possibly let the ocean drain in as well under some circumstances.
This is just another heads-up to check white or black nylon fittings carefully and often, and preferably replace with bronze, SS or good Marelon composite type before any nylon fitting near the waterline tries to sink your boat.
Whether nylon or metal, most always a large nut and washer slips over the hose barb and threads on to the threaded portion of the fitting just inside the hull to secure it, usually with sealant in the hull hole and under the lip of the outer portion. If it is completely broken off, anything left in the hull hole should be able to be pushed into the boat. That may take a little effort if sealant is present but shouldn't be difficult.
If you don't have adequate access to the hose and inside of the hull you will likely have to cut the liner or whatever is needed to install an inspection plate. It usually requires someone on both inside and outside to properly install the thru hull drain fitting.
The fittings may have either a hose barb or just a threaded portion on the hose end. In the latter case, a barb to thread adapter is used on the hose 1st.
Often the outer part just falls off, but sometimes the outer part of the fitting will stay in place and look as if the fitting was intact but the hose with the broken barb portion may have fallen down to drain in the boat, and possibly let the ocean drain in as well under some circumstances.
This is just another heads-up to check white or black nylon fittings carefully and often, and preferably replace with bronze, SS or good Marelon composite type before any nylon fitting near the waterline tries to sink your boat.
Whether nylon or metal, most always a large nut and washer slips over the hose barb and threads on to the threaded portion of the fitting just inside the hull to secure it, usually with sealant in the hull hole and under the lip of the outer portion. If it is completely broken off, anything left in the hull hole should be able to be pushed into the boat. That may take a little effort if sealant is present but shouldn't be difficult.
If you don't have adequate access to the hose and inside of the hull you will likely have to cut the liner or whatever is needed to install an inspection plate. It usually requires someone on both inside and outside to properly install the thru hull drain fitting.
The fittings may have either a hose barb or just a threaded portion on the hose end. In the latter case, a barb to thread adapter is used on the hose 1st.
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
- RO Number
- 12212
- Messages
- 12,204
Tue hull fittings are installed from the outside and secured from the inside.
In your case, you need to remove the hose from the fitting, then pull out what's left of the fitting from the inside. At this point it s only holding by the sealant.
They come in diffent size so you will need to check what you have.
To inside apply some 4200 outside and inside the hole, push the fitting from the outside then inside the boat thread the nut then put on the barb adapter and e hose with double clamps.
Ideally, replace with SS or bronze, much longer lasting that plastic.
In your case, you need to remove the hose from the fitting, then pull out what's left of the fitting from the inside. At this point it s only holding by the sealant.
They come in diffent size so you will need to check what you have.
To inside apply some 4200 outside and inside the hole, push the fitting from the outside then inside the boat thread the nut then put on the barb adapter and e hose with double clamps.
Ideally, replace with SS or bronze, much longer lasting that plastic.
When mine broke, I took hacksaw blade & cut remains as flush to hull as possible. Then I covered opening with SS Mini Clam Shell Vent. Could put some bronze wool under the cover to keep spiders & the like from building nest in opening. Worked for me for many years, even vent for fuel tanks.
as others have noted, if the outside lip is completely gone the caulk/sealant is holding the rest in place. the sealant type normally used to install these is 3M 5200 or equal, and this stuff is pretty resilient. 5200's weakness is heat, so use a heat gun to soften it up and you can also use a very thin screw driver together with some bond break solvent to very carefully mechanically break the seal. another option is to use a carriage bolt with a plywood backer to pull the remainder thru to the surface the way a shaft puller works.