Engine temp

Cranked up the twins and spent some quality time with the boys yesterday. The hand-on-the-riser test was done, and there is a remarkable difference in temp. Could leave hand on port engine as long s I wanted, not so with stbd. Ordered new pump this morning.

Bkair, coolers fairly new..

Ohb, at low rpms, yes, but not at cruise speeds; my hearing ain't what it used to be. The tach is a digital synchronizer. Anyway, thanks for the help everyone.
 
quote:
Originally posted by cmariner32

I hate to add yet another variable, but a FWC big block uses a 160 degree T-stat-not a 140 T-stat which is for raw water cooled engines. FWC cooled engines should run at 160 normal operation and up to 180 at cruise (assuming 80+ degree raw water temp). If your guages are reading 160-180...that is normal range. Engines that feed a water heater do seem to run a little hotter than engines without. Steaming can be an indication of lack of water flow, but alot depends on the relative humidity, air temp and other factors. Unless the steaming you are seeing is new and it never steamed before, and if the IR gun temps indicate nothing wrong temp-wise, don't spend time worrying over it and enjoy boating-the season always seems to be too short anyhow.

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I was also going to say it sounds like you have the wrong temp thermostats too. I know my 1981 454 Crusader's have always produced steam but my temps have always been fine. I was told this is common and just the nature of the beast.
 
Went through this last year and ended up replacing pump.
Did learn that you can prove which side of pump is problem, or pump is problem by using external
pump/ water hose. By routing output of rw pump overboard and connecting water hose to engine side of rw pump you can prove two things.
How much water is coming out of the rw pump,
how long does it take to fill 5 gal bucket?
And, if engine is cool on water hose then problem is in the rw pump.
 
Bruce:

The only real solution IMO will be found with a total cooling system tear down and overhaul. Everyone looks for the one thing that is causing the issue of the day but after some years the entire system needs cleaning. Chemicals cant be relied on to work.
Total disassembly is common on diesels but for some reason gas guys don't want to bite the bullet.
 
I agree, Bruce. Taking that approach one part at a time, beginning with the cheapest and easiest. :-)
 
Replacing the raw water pump did not correct the problem, but flushing the U-cooler made a noticable difference; flushing the heat exchanger is next.
Thanks agan for all the help.
 
Did you flush it into a bucket to be able to report what you observed?
 
Crushed shells is probably either from running aground or stuff growing in your system that broke loose after a period of storage. Shells in the strainer sound like running aground.
 
could also be shells busted up by a diver cleaning the scoops.
Those would be crushed small barnacle or mussel shells instead of thicker chunks of larger shell.
 
Glad you found the problem. As I said in earlier post, oil coolers should always be first place to start. Use muriatic acid for 5 minutes in cooler and they will be clean as new
 
Ran Barnacle Buster through raw water side and it worked like a charm, will do this annually from now on.
 
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