Fridge not working

CurrentSea

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Repair or replace.
It's 9 years old.
It's made by isotherm.
Thanks.
 
Based on home and RV appliances, if the "sealed system" in a Fridge, A/C, Icemaker etc. needs repair, such as compressor replacement, leaky condenser or evaporator, my take is: REPLACE. Controls, Fans, etc: REPAIR. I looked Isotherm up, and they have other cooling technologies besides Compressor, so my example may not be quite as helpful as I'd like. RV fridges use an Absorption Cooling Unit, no compressor. It can be replaced as a DIY job for less than half the cost of a new fridge, but sometimes they don't work out "good as new."

Just read an article about home appliances that was REPLACE if over six years old.

My other thought is this: You have a tremendous investment in the 4080. A failed fridge won't leave you stranded, but it's a major part of your enjoyment of that 4080. The idea of a boating day, weekend, or week with no fridge that's nine years old, points to REPLACE.
 
quote:

Originally posted by j-d

............

My other thought is this: You have a tremendous investment in the 4080. A failed fridge won't leave you stranded, but it's a major part of your enjoyment of that 4080. The idea of a boating day, weekend, or week with no fridge that's nine years old, points to REPLACE.




Ditto
Dave, I dont have to tell you how to enjoy life your doing a good job, But as JD said youd be real pissed if the fridge goes down during one of your trips, Just saying
A
 
I totally agree with replacement.
I still have the original GE fridge that I have been repairing for the last five years. What a royal pain in the keister. Chris Craft built the boat around the fridge and sofa. Next month I'm cutting a hole in the cabin top to remove and replace the two pieces.

Billy K.
 
Well it may be as simple as a thermostat.
If it is then it’s a repair.
Beyond that it’s a replace.
Issue is I have to remove fridge to get to thermostat to tie wires together and see if it kicks on.
 
Agree with that approach. Have you got a Model Number to look at? A Parts List? Anything to guide you?

Problem's same with RV's. They furniture and appliances are sitting on the already carpeted floor, before the WALLS go on. So replacement can involve removing a window, the windshield, etc. It's a big reason why some replace that fridge "cooling unit" because it can be done with the fridge still inside the coach.
 
I'm about 1000 miles out or would drop in to help. We seek mobile mechanics for our RV's. Anybody near you?

Got any manuals we can look at? Parts list, installation manual? When I first saw this thread, I looked at the manufacturer website and saw they seem to not only have "models" like sizes, etc. but also different technologies.

Can you provide any "tech" info on yours?
 
Depending on the model they can be expensive. I'd try a couple of simple things like the tstat first. Was this the first use of the season? Checked all the breakers and fuses etc.?
 
All breakers are on.
I hear a fan or something running and the light is on.
I hear no click when I turn thermostat, normally it clicks when it goes on
It is a Isotherm. Made in Italy,
Model #1200BB7XL0000
I see it on their site but the link doesn't work

Gonna pull it this week and see if tstat.
After that I am out of my league.
 
My now 30 yr old small Norcold stopped working on DC power about 2 yrs ago and I figured it was time for a new one since 30 yrs on a Norcold may be close to a record. Still worked on AC though I really never use it on either power. It turned out to just be a bad fuse on the DC power board but fridge had to be pulled out to access it.
So I'd support at least pulling it out as you apparently plan to do , and give it a good eyballing and basic checks.
 
I had an Isotherm in my '05 Regal. Mechanical Tstat went out every year. I got the US parts supplier from their website, and ordered them from the Ft. Lauderdale area. The insides were rusting up on them. You can replace it without pulling the refrigerator, as it is accessed from inside. Was not too difficult of a job.

(Edit) You should see some rust stains on the interior near the knob as proof of failure.
 
Can you pull the Tstat from the inside and jumper it that way? Seems so.
 
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