Fuel problem? Ethanol problem?

Do not overlook the fuel pump! I had problems similar to those you describe.... twice...once with each engine. After replacing the last pump, I opened up the old one and sure enough, the diaphragm had failed.

Years ago they sold repair kits for car engine pumps for about $5 or so. Those kits are history, a new pump cost is around $100.
 
quote:

Originally posted by pdecat

OHB Some people just enjoy complicated solutions.






It's called CSI- Boatered where you try to find out what's wrong from the clues provided. In some cases it should be Carnac the magnificent and hold the computer monitor up to your head since the poster ( not slamming the poster in this case) doesn't provide any clues or info. Fun in either case to work on your diagnostic skills.
 
I had a similar issue.
My problem went away when I changed out the fuel lines with USCG Type A1 hose for the engines and generator.
Two years before that, I almost lost the boat due to possible explosion of fuel vapors because of fuel pump rupture.I found out my nose is more sensitive than the fume detector.
Both problems were attributed to ethanol.
 
IMHO- start simple, get the tank cleaned out and make sure you are getting clean fuel. I would replace the fuel lines at the same time.
 
quote:

Originally posted by glenncal1

IMHO- start simple, get the tank cleaned out and make sure you are getting clean fuel. I would replace the fuel lines at the same time.






Your simple suggested fix can be somewhat expensive and there is no assurance it will fix his problem. My guess is to fuel polish a tank can easily run in the $600-800 range and then add to that another $50-100 there about for new fuel line. Would it not be better to have his fuel tested first?
 
Might also check that the carb float is correctly set and not hanging up when a few
g's are encountered - like hitting a wake or even seen it happen in a sharp turn.
 
I think I saw you said that the vent line fills and hold fuel. Is it possible that at certain conditions the line fills and blocks air from entering the tank and interferes with fuel supply to carbs? Pretty much the same condition if you try and operate a small. Outboard on a portable tank and leave the vent closed.
Just a thought.
 
quote:

Originally posted by foggysail

quote:

Originally posted by glenncal1

IMHO- start simple, get the tank cleaned out and make sure you are getting clean fuel. I would replace the fuel lines at the same time.






Your simple suggested fix can be somewhat expensive and there is no assurance it will fix his problem. My guess is to fuel polish a tank can easily run in the $600-800 range and then add to that another $50-100 there about for new fuel line. Would it not be better to have his fuel tested first?








This is a gas boat, not diesel. You pump the nasties off the bottom, add a bit of fresh fuel. and your on your way. Total cost is about $13 for a pump and piece of tubing and a little bit of time.
 
OHB,
Can you post a link to the little red suction pump? A google search didn't turn up many results.
 
quote:

Originally posted by OLD HOUSEBOATER

quote:

Originally posted by foggysail

quote:

Originally posted by glenncal1

IMHO- start simple, get the tank cleaned out and make sure you are getting clean fuel. I would replace the fuel lines at the same time.






Your simple suggested fix can be somewhat expensive and there is no assurance it will fix his problem. My guess is to fuel polish a tank can easily run in the $600-800 range and then add to that another $50-100 there about for new fuel line. Would it not be better to have his fuel tested first?








This is a gas boat, not diesel. You pump the nasties off the bottom, add a bit of fresh fuel. and your on your way. Total cost is about $13 for a pump and piece of tubing and a little bit of time.










OHB- That worked just fine in the days before E10 gas and phase-separation issues. Not so much anymore where E10 gasohol is mandated, and in the case of separation, leaves TWO bad layers not safely fixed by pumping bottom layer and adding some new.
 
Kevdon,
All good advice here on the potential problem. I suggest the following in this order. This order is because it is easy and simple and less costly/.
First, pull the filter(s) and water separator (if you have one), side note, if you don't, you should get one installed. As mentioned, dump the fuel into a clear glass bottle, wait for it to settle, and tells us what you see. If you take a picture, do so and post such. If the fuel looks crappy, hook up, an external tank and see how the boat runs with that. next step is to tell us your findings. :)

Good luck.

PS,
If the fuel looks real bad, your carburetor may be affected again. Maybe, your carb has a filter built in ( is so, usually where the fuel intake is to the carb, looks like a screen.
 
Thanks for all the constructive good advice.

"OHB- That worked just fine in the days before E10 gas and phase-separation issues. Not so much anymore where E10 gasohol is mandated, and in the case of separation, leaves TWO bad layers not safely fixed by pumping bottom layer and adding some new."

When this problem arose, I had over 50 gallons of fuel mostly new. When my mechanic first visited he advised that possibly all the fuel would need to be pumped out and disposed at a cost of over $500. As indicated by others, it is well known that if E 10 fuel goes bad it is not a simple pump out the bottom. I decided to try to burn off as much fuel as possible.
Since he rebuilt the Carburator, I have managed to burn off most of the fuel, although as I indicated before the engine would loose power in wake or rough water. I could not find K 100 but added another similar product and ran the boat with sharp turns to test. After several incidents of power loss, the engine ran well except the idle became very rough with some stalling.

I spoke with my mechanic this morning, and we have developed this plan.
1) He will provide a portable tank to hopefully allow getting to the hauling slip, may have to clean carb again to allow smooth idling. Check and change fuel filter.
2) The tank will be pumped out after the boat is on the hard- I think I found a means to legally dispose a nominal amount of old fuel. It will be left empty for the winter.
3) He will winterize the engine with a separate tank spiked with winter conditioner. He said he uses leaded fuel to winterize which is expensive to come by from a motorcycle shop. All gas stations sell only E10 in NJ.
4) I am suspicious about my fuel vent hose since it often fills up during refueling and prevents adding more fuel and may have contaminated the fuel. We are planning to replace that hose and inspect others. The vent hose has sometimes had fuel laying in it until I blow it out.

Again thanks all for the constructive comments. Hopefully this will not totally bust the boat budget, which a complete pump out would cause and leave an uncertainty about some hoses.
 
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