Getting boat off the trailer

alk

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I have a 19' ski boat, I'd like to get it off the trailer to do some work on the hull, and to replace the trailer bunks.

Don't have the budget to purchase boat stands, so figured I would put it on blocks. I guess I should use wood? Or cement blocks? Any idea where I can find big enough wood blocks to make this work? Not seeing much at the Home Depot.

Looking at a million YouTube videos, seems like I should get the stern blocked a few inches off the trailer, start moving the trailer forwards, and block as I go? Boat only weighs 2200 lbs according to the builder, I could probably lift the whole thing up off the trailer with my engine hoist,
 
Can you rent boat stands from a local tool rental? Blocks are a lot of work.
 
I always forget the difference between cinder and cement blocks? For the big boats, most of the marinas around here use a stack of cement ( or is it cinder) blocks, with a piece of wood on top.

I can buy some new stands for about 180 piece, or there are some on craiglist for about 100 each. I don’t think rent or borrow will work, as I’m going to be on these blocks for next four months or so.

What size wood am I looking for, if I want to use it for blocking?
 
You can use cement blocks, but you need to top those off with wood. Any lumber you have should work. I always used 2x8, doubled up.Thought I should add that I always used 2 wide layers of plywood at the base to prevent blocks from sinking into the ground.
 
There is a wood mill near us that always has big scrap blocks outside for people to pick through. They aren't free; they charge by the weight and its pretty cheap. We used to get blocks from there when we used to haul our docks for the winter. Check if there is a mill near you or, if your up for it, ROADTRIP!!!
 
I’ve seen people just use firewood rounds - don’t overthink it. For a 19’ ski boat, there’s no real blocking plan - whatever you got laying around that’s solid and the right height will be just fine.
 
Will try Lowe’s tonight. Apparently abyc standards tell you how to stack ‘masonary blocks’ which I assume are the same thing I’m calling cement blocks. The kind that are sort of hollowed, that my house is sitting on. Use a few of these, sitting the same way they are in the photo - in other words solid sides facing out, plywood covering the top?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-8-i...-625-in-Standard-Cored-Concrete-Block/3608978

One of my neighbors was out cutting up the remains of a giant tree in his yard, i was going to go down with my chainsaw, and see what I could come away with - but didn’t make it in time.

Guessing the MD mill near you isn’t open on Sundays . Hoping to finish this up tomorrow at the latest.
 
Anyway you look at it, moving a trailer out from under a boat is a long tedious process. I made boat stands out of a bunch of 2" steel pipes I had laying around. You don't really need it unless you plan a full barrier coat and paint but need to dry out the hull after you sand open the gel coat.

I like stacking alternating directions of lengths of 2x4 or 2x6's and make wedges to fit the hull. A lot safer than cinder blocks.

That's how we keep 15+ ton duck blinds off the ground.
 
I used cement blocks with 4X6's going across wider than the trailer. (landscape ties)
I jacked up the trailer and placed the 4X6's under the stern , then dropped the trailer back down with the boat on the boards.
Then I jacked up the bow and placed the 4X6's under the bow, then dropped the trailer back down with the bow on the boards.
Then I drove the trailer out from under the boards with the boat on top.
Did not take long at all.

When I was completely done I used the landscape ties for the yard.
 
Be very careful. Even experienced people can be badly injured when something goes awry. I think it IS worth being concerned about keeping it too simple as I seen some REALLY dangerously tipping or otherwise unstable blocking .

https://vineyardgazette.com/news/2018/03/12/deputy-harbor-master-injured-mishap

I suggest keeping the blocking as low as possible. Wood cribbing to support the weight and chained stands to prevent tipping is generally greatly preferred over use of cement blocks , and a good cradle is better all around. If you use cinder blocks , always keep the holes vertical and use a wood or metal wide base and wood top as the blocks will otherwise settle unevenly into the ground over time.

I used to take my old SeaCraft 23 off the trailer and block it up by myself so I could work on it underneath each winter for the 10 yrs I had it. I think I was very lucky because I did use cement blocks most of the time and should have done it better .
If there is any "give" to the boat after blocking, ....please don't trust it.
 
Many years ago I had a neighbor working on his car held up,with concrete blocks. The school,bus driver bringing his kids home found him crushed under the car after the blocks failed! The bus driver kept going to the next stop and called for help. I have never trusted concrete blocks again s
 
I’ve got the keel blocked in two places with wood, and at each corner of the transom two high with masonary blocks and a piece of wood on top. I talked to the manufacturer of the boat for placement of the keel blocks.

It’s been sitting like this since last Sunday and hasn’t budged. It’s sitting a little higher than I would like - wanted to lower it after I pulled the trailer out - but didn’t want to jack it up off the blocks to shortern them. But I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

And the good news is that it fits in the garage. Last spring I had the bow and trailer tongue poking out of the garage, with the door open about three feet, and a bunch of wood and tarps to keep the heat in and the critters out. Pretty impressive look.
 
The blocks of wood should be carrying the weight of the boat and the cement blocks with boards are there to keep it centered. Boat stands would be better but you should be ok. It’s a 19’ boat.
Jim
 
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