"GOOD" Brand Windlass

RWS

RWS

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Time to upgrade my old Simpson/Lawrence/Lewmar freefall 600 horizontal windlass.

Looks like I'll pull the trigger on the GOOD brand of windlass, built in Barnegat NJ since 1958

It's a free fall unit and the design allows the gypsy to grip the rode in a greater circumference than the Maxwell design or any other under consideration.

Additionally, there is no need to tie off the rode while anchored, or to secure it while underway, thereby keeping someone off the bow during anchoring maneuvers on my 33' boat.

Comments appreciated.

RWS
 
Installed that model on a 44 Atlantic sundeck back in 2002. Excellent windlass, no problems at all for the six years I owned the boat.
 
Good makes a great windlass. Their customer support and service is excellent.

You made the right choice!
 
Installed that windlass on my old 300 Sundancer and loved it. Absolutely bulletproof. Great company to deal with.
 
Had 3 boats since 1976. All 3 had GOOD windlasses. "NEVER" had a problem or issue with any of them. Mine were all rope; no chain; couldn't be better !
 
My 38' Carver came with a Good Windlass, but it was the "rope" only windlass when I bought the boat in 2011. Being on the gulf coast, I wanted a combination chain/rope windlass and upgraded my old windlass to the combo windlass-F-850 as I recall. When I called the company to order the new windlass, Tom answered-he is the Owner-what large company do you know where the Owner answers the phone????? I was able to trade-in my 22 year old windlass for a substantial discount on my new windlass. Call Maxwell, or Lewmar and ask them for a trade-in allowance and enjoy the laughter. Good Windlass is more than just a Good name-its a truly Good product!! Just my opinion-your results may vary.
 
A little late to this thread, but... right after I bought the boat in my sig (4 years ago), I traded in the GOOD rope-only windlass for the F-850 rope/chain model. Dealt directly with the factory and got the trade-in. They're a little pricey, but it's way quieter than the others and pulls like a tractor. Where most of them use a gypsey that relies on friction to grab the chain (and may eventually chew up the gypsey), GOOD's is a cogged wheel that positively engages the chain links. I like it a lot.

My .02
 
Thanks guys !

Ordered mine yesterday as part of rebuilding the entire pulpit, whose balsa core became wet due to my somewhat neglected teak.

No wood in the rebuild, and the real teak will be replaced with Plasteak.

Tom at GOOD was wonderful to work with.

I am excited to have all the benefits of the GOOD FREEFALL windlass, especially no one having to go out on the foredeck to secure or un-secure it !!!

RWS
 
I had several Good windlasses, always performed well. Free fall is a great feature. Switched to a Maxwell rope/chain last time i upgraded from a rope only. You should still tie the anchor line off to a cleat, not sure what you mean about no one on the bow. It is also a good idea to attach a safety line to the anchor when in the pulpit and underway. Best of luck with it, they make a nice product.
 
I don't have a windlass so I'm not speaking from experience with them other than being on many other boats with them , but I surely agree with Bob.

I always understood it was a very bad idea to use the windlass rather than a cleat to hold the force between boat and anchor , and likewise that it was umwise practice to omit using a stopper or snubber/tensioner to secure the anchor underway, particularly with a free-fall windlass. I'm curious what characteristic of the Good model might obviate the use of those common-practice items?

Lastly , does your anchor sit in the pulpit rollers balanced in such a way it will always self-deploy when windlass is allowed to free-fall? If so, that seems like another reason for a tensioner.

I'm also curious if all-rope rodes really mean no chain at all connected to the anchor, or perhaps just a short shot of chain to help protect against bottom abrasion? I'd think all-rope would greatly reduce the catenary dip which helps keep the anchor dug in with shank more parallel to the bottom, so a much heavier anchor would be required for same holding. I've never seen an "all-rope" setup.
 
Sandy, 3 boats since 1976 & all anchors were all rope; no chain. Never had an issue.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Bob J

Sandy, 3 boats since 1976 & all anchors were all rope; no chain. Never had an issue.

Click to expand...


Bob - Whatever works for you has to be good ! [:-thumbu]
 
Chain usually will reduce the required amount of line needed to some extent and helps the anchor bite quicker - now a lot has to do with the depth you are anchoring in, the bottom type, etc. Most of my anchoring is in relatively shallow water so chain isn’t really necessary as Bob J has experienced. At a busy shallow shoal “tices” nearby, chain is less prone to end up wrapped around someone’s propeller because its laying on the bottom.
 
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