Heavy Boat.Water in Hull?

quote:
Originally posted by OLD HOUSEBOATER

Next spring weight the boat and compare it with the as built weight from the manufacture. If performance is up to par don't worry about it.

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I have not seen reimless reply yet on water line and performance. If these two items seem to indicate a heavy boat then I think the next step I would take would be as suggested here to get a weight. I would probably do this before hiring a surveyor.

At this point I would not spend a lot of money and worry based on a comment by a boat hauler until I had more evidence.

George
 
quote:
Originally posted by gcolton

quote:
Originally posted by OLD HOUSEBOATER

Next spring weight the boat and compare it with the as built weight from the manufacture. If performance is up to par don't worry about it.

Click to expand...


I have not seen reimless reply yet on water line and performance. If these two items seem to indicate a heavy boat then I think the next step I would take would be as suggested here to get a weight. I would probably do this before hiring a surveyor.

At this point I would not spend a lot of money and worry based on a comment by a boat hauler until I had more evidence.

George

Click to expand...


I wasnt able to reach The right RPMs, but my mechanic never said anything about water absorption, he always said that motor had problems, the gear ratio was wrong in the outdrive, which i replaced and then the boat was able to get on plane, I then played with the prop pitch and got a like 800 more rpms. I cruise around 30 knots

And it might have been a little high on the water line, like an inch or so.

Is there a spot that i can open up from inside the boat to inspect the water saturation?
let me know.
 
if there aren't any access hatches you can add one. a hole saw in an inconspicuous place will allow you to remove some foam and epoxy things back together. or, add an access hatch plate or cover and leave it accessible.

dig out foam until you reach the hull. a section of pvc pipe works good...groove some serrations in the end and twist it in. you should pull a foam plug out with the pvc.

are your engine mount bolts in solid wood or do they spin with a wrench on them?
 
Can ypu pull up some of the floor in the cabin? I would expect that your tile is laid over a sheet of marine plywood. If there are no obvious seams you might need to pull up some of the tile also.

A water line 1" higher than normal equates to about 400 pounds for your size of a boat. 400 pounds is the difference between a full and an empty gas tank or couple of extra people. This doesn't seem to indicates that you are excessively heavy.

Sounds like your boat hauler might have been overreacting to a weak jack.

Mike
 
meide...I hope that is the case...
I will check it out more when I return from a lil vacation to south beach for new years!
Thanks for all of the help so far guys...
 
Century's back then were fully cored boats...not with balsa, but with foam. We had several (we were a dealer for them until they went bankrupt in 1986) that developed cracks (for various manufacturing reasons) in the outer skin and water seeped into the foam coring and saturated the boat's hulls. I hope that is not the case for you, but something to look for.
 
1" more displacement than stock would probably translate into 1-2 TONS of water. That's where I am in both water line and extra weight.
 
RamSport, fully cored below the waterline?

You mean like waterloggedwhaler disease?
 
Charlie,

Here's how I came up with 1" = 400 pounds:
Beam = 8 feet
Length at waterline (minus a bit for narrowing at bow) ~10 feet

Length X Beam X 1" = 6.6 cubic feet

6.6 cubic feet X 62 pounds per cubic foot = 409 pounds

Mike
 
Isn't the foam in most/all boats closed cell foram so that it does not absorb water?
 
Ghost...fully cored from gunwhale to keel. And, yes, it would be like a sponge.
 
I have experience with older Centurys. The boat is water logged. Centurys were not built well. There is likely rot in the stringers, floor and transom. All the foam is soaked with water and probably has been for years. Lots of boats of this vintage have the similar problems. There is no sense worring about it. The boat is not worth fixing the problems, and if it is performing OK will most likely give you good service in the future. Just enjoy it until you see problems with the stringers, then its time to move on. But for now enjoy it.
 
Meide,
Well, maybe I'm a little more than 1". Stock weight was somewhere around 4500lb for a 1978 24' searay. Last time I weighed it(truck scale) it was 7600lb.

I did a little quick figgurin' for a 25' boat. I came up with 10.26 cuft per inch or about 640lb.(figgurin' 15' length)
 
quote:
Originally posted by ddurand

Isn't the foam in most/all boats closed cell foram so that it does not absorb water?

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It's not quite so simple. Just because a foam is closed cell, does not mean the it will not absorb water. Time exposed to water is another factor in whether it will be absorbant or not.

The large number of builders in the past which did use foam, used materials that would absorb water over time. Many of them were billed as closed cell and in fact are the very same materials still used today.

Bottom line is that whatever core material is used, it must be engineered, built, and maintained to stay dry for the life of the vessel. Even purely fiberglass boats with all fiberglass box stringers without coring need to be desinged to stay dry. Bilge water on fiberglass which is painted without gel coat, or even with gel coat over time will eventually absorb water as well. Another good reason to keep the bilges dry.

Now, if we are talking about sales brochures, then its a different set of rules. First is that fiberglass boats are maintenance free, last forever, and don't rot if built with foam coring. Now, will you be paying with a check or should we arrange financing?
 
Hi I have a century marida 255 complete with
A 350 and stern drive .with aux motor and generator
On trailer weights is 3.8 tone .of trailer 2.5 tone
Which is about wright.they are a heavy boat
A lot of wood finishing .75mm thick hole
.just rember it's not a speed boat but a cruiser
.what size prop do you have on .30knts is a lot
For a boat of this size .
 
quote:
Originally posted by nz1

Hi I have a century marida 255 complete with
A 350 and stern drive .with aux motor and generator
On trailer weights is 3.8 tone .of trailer 2.5 tone
Which is about wright.they are a heavy boat
A lot of wood finishing .75mm thick hole
.just rember it's not a speed boat but a cruiser
.what size prop do you have on .30knts is a lot
For a boat of this size .

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Greetings to the Kiwi, but did you notice that thread to which you replied had it's last post 6 yrs ago?
 
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