It was time
- Thread starter boatbum
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2000
- RO Number
- 36
- Messages
- 6,692
We have not had them tuned in years. Plus the stbd prop had dings in the edge. I figured it was time because even when they were clean and freshly painted we could not hit max full load RPM.
This time, if everything works out we leave them unpainted and clean them up as you suggest. He will go after the bottom and zincs when the props are done.
This time, if everything works out we leave them unpainted and clean them up as you suggest. He will go after the bottom and zincs when the props are done.
sabrejocky
Member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2003
- RO Number
- 12195
- Messages
- 557
The best results I ever had was when I had my props polished to a mirror shine, very hard to find someone that is willing to do the work but it was the best anti-fouling I ever had. Tried prop speed and it just did not last, painting is probably the worst, just leaving them bare and cleaning them regularly is probably the smartest money wise
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2000
- RO Number
- 36
- Messages
- 6,692
That seems to make sense because it would not leave much for anything to hang onto. Once they start spinning the loosely attached stuff would fly off.
How long could that take with a hand drill and some rouge? A week?
How long could that take with a hand drill and some rouge? A week?
It sounds like you will be having them serviced and likely pitch decreased and matched anyway, but those props could be very nicely shined up rapidly with small Fine grade Scotch-Brite discs on a 4" grinder or disc sander or even chucked in a cordless drill. Anything coarser than Fine is too aggressive, IMO. Sears has small identical discs on a mandrel for a drill, which is much safer than the Velcro backed type when used at high speed ( think "Odd Job" and his hat...).
For a reality check since we all hit some flotsam whether we know it or not, I get my props scanned free with printout each winter after shining them up, then quickly apply multiple coats of Collinite Insulator wax that tends to protect them close to 1/2 the season here in the NE before I need to clean them off underwater while I'm brushin bottom and checking anodes.
For a reality check since we all hit some flotsam whether we know it or not, I get my props scanned free with printout each winter after shining them up, then quickly apply multiple coats of Collinite Insulator wax that tends to protect them close to 1/2 the season here in the NE before I need to clean them off underwater while I'm brushin bottom and checking anodes.
Capt. Bill1
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 2017
- Messages
- 6,127
Just put Propspeed on them and be done with it. It works and is worth the money.
Capt. Bill1
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 2017
- Messages
- 6,127
Weird, I have yet to meet anyone who hasn't been happy with it as long as it was applied properly.
But as they say, YMMV.
But as they say, YMMV.
quote:
Originally posted by Capt. Bill1
Weird, I have yet to meet anyone who hasn't been happy with it as long as it was applied properly.
But as they say, YMMV.
+1
It is expensive. But the majority of the cost is in the prep.
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2000
- RO Number
- 36
- Messages
- 6,692
Anyway!
We had them installed Monday and things are as predicted much better but we still have work to do. As many know I have 2 micron filters on the engines (BigA Racors) which were installed prior to returning from the Bahamas so they only have about 40 hours on them. Later in the Fall when we start to move again, we will have the props scrubbed as well as the bottom and we will probably pick up the last 100 rpm and 3 knots at top end.
FWIW the boat popped out of the water and hit 18 knots quickly. The shop we used tried to sell me prop speed with the efficiency pitch but that only applies if you are running the boat fast. He admitted that if you run at 8 knots it won't contribute much.
We had them installed Monday and things are as predicted much better but we still have work to do. As many know I have 2 micron filters on the engines (BigA Racors) which were installed prior to returning from the Bahamas so they only have about 40 hours on them. Later in the Fall when we start to move again, we will have the props scrubbed as well as the bottom and we will probably pick up the last 100 rpm and 3 knots at top end.
FWIW the boat popped out of the water and hit 18 knots quickly. The shop we used tried to sell me prop speed with the efficiency pitch but that only applies if you are running the boat fast. He admitted that if you run at 8 knots it won't contribute much.
Capt. Bill1
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 2017
- Messages
- 6,127
Sounds like the prop shop guy needs to change his sales pitch. Propspeeds main benefit on a slower speed boat is to keep the metal parts located beneath the hull like, props, shafts, rudders, trim tads, etc., free from marine growth. And allow what growth does attach to them to just wash off as the parts rotate and/or as the water moves over them. The potential efficiency increase would just a bonus. But the bonus can still be there compared to a prop covered in slowly fouling conventional bottom paint.
I have found many owners and/or divers make the mistake of scrubbing on the Propspeed instead of just wiping it down and there by scrubbing the coating off making it ineffectual. Sort of like washing your freshly waxed boat with degrease or Dawn dish washing soap and stripping the wax right off.
I'm not trying to sell you on it. Just passing along what I've found to be true about it to others who may have an interest in using it.
I have found many owners and/or divers make the mistake of scrubbing on the Propspeed instead of just wiping it down and there by scrubbing the coating off making it ineffectual. Sort of like washing your freshly waxed boat with degrease or Dawn dish washing soap and stripping the wax right off.
I'm not trying to sell you on it. Just passing along what I've found to be true about it to others who may have an interest in using it.