Jabsco head question

D

danscanjr

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2008
RO Number
29846
Messages
14
First, thanks to all who post here. I am a 2nd year boater with a 12 year old boat (Larson 28' cruiser), and I have learned a lot here. My issue:

I have a Jabsco 37010 electric head. It worked fine for a while, then a guest put some Kleenex down there, and it clogged up (my bad- guest education has since been beefed up considerably!). After I got the bad stuff out, the motor would still seize up- I would press the button, the overhead light would dim, but nothing happens. So it took the whole thing apart, cleaned it out, and got it back together. It worked fine a for a day, and now the same thing, no flush. I think the electric motor is OK- it runs nice and fast when I have it apart. I suspect one of the washers or seals is bad, but I cannot guess which one.

Also, there is a slow leak that seems to come out of the motor when it is 'trying' to flush.

Question- would installing the $60 kit of replacement parts likely fix this? Or should I start over?
 
the replacement kit comes with basically everything except the motor. i would pull it apart and check the motor...if ok, order rebuild kit.

if the motor is bad, buy a new motor, it comes with most/if not all of the hardware to install it.
 
Thanks- I found the overhaul kit, and I will pick it up and try to install Tuesday. One more question- will I need any grease/ lube during install? Is WD-40 OK, or is there specific stuff I should, get at the marine store?
 
The kit will contain some lubricant for the impeller. If not, use dish soap. I wouldn't use WD 40. Not really intended to be used as a lubricant.
 
i would not use wd-40 as it may dry out seals, you need a non petro. based lube....dish soap or what they provide in the kit.
 
I had the same problem with the exact head you have. The shaft seal that keeps the motor dry from the raw water impellor was letting salt water thru to the windings on my motor. Needless to say, I had to buy a whole new macerator pump. If you boat in fresh water, seal failure may not be as obvious. I saw salt residue from the bottom can bolts and when I shook the motor, I could hear water inside. You might want to check yourself.
 
Thanks everybody, I installed kit last night and it appears to work great. Will test again tomorrow.
 
quote:
Originally posted by danscanjr

Thanks- I found the overhaul kit, and I will pick it up and try to install Tuesday. One more question- will I need any grease/ lube during install? Is WD-40 OK, or is there specific stuff I should, get at the marine store?

Click to expand...


Don't use WD-40.

Glycerin from the drug store is a good choice.
 
Hey guys,

I'm also haveing problems with my 37010. (8 years old , salt water)

How difficult is it to replace the motor and impeller ? I believe my motor is shot and I'm assuming I might as well replace the impeller while I'm at it.

Thanks,
Dave
 
Dave...Just did that to my Jabbie 37010. If you buy it as an assembly, the impellor comes with it. Four screws hold the motor and assembly in place along with 2 hoes that need disconnected. You should have a towel or wet vac to soak up any water/whatever that is in the lines or impellor housing. Took my time and it took about 30 minutes. Get the part# for the motor assembly and google it-big range of price. Boatfix was one of the more competitive prices.
 
Another possibility, other than rebuilding what you have, is to go with the Raritan SeaEra Conversion kit. It will mount in exactly the same spot as the Jabsco 37000 series, even has the same mounting bolt pattern, and isn't terribly expensive:

http://www.boatfix.com/bykeywordnew2.asp?textfield=160LI012&texttype=2

Here's a picture of it:

http://www.raritaneng.com/products/toilets/electric/sea_era_conversion_kit.html

It includes a kit to re-mount the toilet bowl (bowls are interchangeable between Jabsco and Raritan) and even includes a new push button switch.
 
Thanks guys.

Vic,
Are the 37010's notorious for needing a lot of maintenance ?

I've owned this 9yo boat for 3 seasons and this is the first problem.

Does it help to run fresh water thru the macerator after each weekend of use ?

(head operates off of salt water)
 
They aren't all that bad, maintenance-wise, although they're on the noisy end of the sound scale. Two items worthy of note:

1) The discharge pump impeller and the intake pump impeller are stacked back to back, with a separator plate and rubber seal between the two. If the seal should fail, "dirty" water can make its way from the discharge impeller area to the intake impeller and you wind up with it being recirculated back through the top of the toilet bowl, and down into the bowl. Aside from the poor aesthetics, you can wind up with a stinky boat as some of this dirty water will remain up in the hollow rim at the top of the bowl, and dry out - and stink.

2) The intake pump uses a rubber flexible impeller that needs to be changed periodically (usually every other year).

If you look at the Raritan SeaEra, a head very similar in appearance, you'll note that the intake pump and the discharge pump are on opposite ends of a double-shafted motor, with the motor itself in-between. In this configuration, recirculation of the flush water can't occur as the two pumps are isolated from one another. The SeaEra also uses a diaphragm-type intake pump, rather than one with a rubber impeller - it is much more reliable than the rubber impeller version.
 
Dave, I didn't answer one question that you asked. Yes, it is a good idea to run clean fresh water through the head, especially when leaving the boat on a Sunday night. You can run some water in from your hand shower, then flush it away. Then do it again, but leave it there (don't flush it) the second time.
 
Update,

I removed the motor today and tried to turn it over with a 7/16" socket and ratchet. I could turn it but it's pretty tight !

Time for a new motor. Does the new motor come with everthing or do I also need to buy the service kit ?

Thanks !
 
You may be able to salvage the motor. There's a good possibility the motor bearings are dry. I had a similar problem with the motor. I disassembled it, oiled the bearings with 30 wt motor oil, and reassembled it. Thnat was two years ago and the motor is still running fine.
 
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