New Raritan Vortex Vacu Flush head?

Don, my mantra has always been, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." VacuFlush heads are very good and if working properly, I see no good reason to replace them. But when they're worn out or begin malfunctioning, then I'd take a look at replacing them. You can get two Raritan Marine Elegance heads for the cost of one new VacuFlush system.
 
Most likely place for a clog is at the first duckbill valve at the entrance to the vacuum pump. When flushing solids (including paper), if you fill the toilet bowl half full before stepping on the flush pedal, and then hold the pedal down for a full 3 seconds before releasing it, clogs will be few and far between.

People experience clogs when they listen to the propaganda that the toilet only needs a pint (or less) of water to flush. Don't believe it! You have to have enough water to carry the waste material through the lines, to the vacuum pump; vacuum by itself, can't do it. The less water used, the more chance for a clog.

People are paranoid about the volume of water used per flush. It's a whole lot easier to pump out your holding tank a few additional times per season, than it is to have to take apart the vacuum pump and clean out the duckbill valves.
 
Vic I will be calling you about the double flush meaning external raw-water along with my freshwater only unit. Can my Elegance head be retrofitted with this? Seems like it would just be a select switch with a raw water pump. Possibly my digital control would have to be upgraded? I will contact you soon. I have a spare thru hull I could use to feed the raw water pump. Thanks as always. Bill
 
Just a quick report the boat was launched today and the head did it's job. It's operation is also very quiet. The programmable water feed, flush and refill are fantastic, I did not expect this when I ordered the unit. Vic tell the folks at Raritan I give this unit 2 thumbs up. I loved my Vacu-Flush but this toilet outperforms the Vacu-Flush in many ways.
Take care. Bill
 
I love it one other point the head doesn't appear to draw the current stated it draws less and I have #1/0 12 volt buss that I used a breaker to control a high current relay for turning the head off when I leave the hoat. I am having problems with the tank sending units. I doubled them up on the same foil on the holding tank. I can set the PuraSan/Hold-N-Treat controller fine but I do not have enough range on the Raritan 4 tank display when the tank is empty the LED's only go down to 2 and a half bars with the internal display potentiometer turned all the way counterclockwise. Perhaps if I knew the circuit better I would know that perhaps I should make the foil strips wider or narrower. I assume as the tank fills the capacitance goes up and the sensor has some sort of diode that rectifies when there is increased capacitance lighting more LEDs (as the tank fills)? I thought about just installing a second separate set of strips for the PuraSan Hold-N-Treat controller? Anyway I could use some advice on how to get the tank monitor to read properly, as it did before. The Hold-N-Treat LEDs can be set properly and it is working properly.
Thanks in advance. Bill
 
Bill, you're probably going to have to put a second set of foils and sensors on the tank, one for the HNT and the other for the Tank Monitor - hope you have enough room...
 
Actually I doubled up the surface area of the foil and now it works. The tank monitor potentiometer is still fully counterclockwise but all is well. I do have room for another set of strips and moving the sender but the entire system is working fine now. So I am leaving well enough alone.
Bill
 
Vic I have a nagging question sorry to be a pest. Why does the PuraSan need the same cool down cycle that a LectraSan would need? It appears to me that you should be able to run the PuraSan unit through 30 cycles with no harm to the PuraSan. After all correct me if I am wrong but no heating takes place it is 2 chambers of maceration with an Oxidizer added with each cycle. Then the next cycle pushes out the contents of the PuraSan. This is evident by the low current draw of the PuraSan vs. LectraSan. I am just looking for a way to optimize the set up I have, by clearing the holding tank faster without compromising the quality of the discharge effluent.
Regards Bill
 
Bill, the two motors have internal automatic-reset circuit breakers. If they run over and over, they start to heat up and will eventually "pop" the internal breakers. The cooldown period is programmed in, to try and stop that from happening. The internal circuit breakers will only open and close so many times, then they conk out and the motors won't run at all.

Also, you may note that the 12 volt Purasan units have a 24 volt macerator motor (larger motor) - that's no mistake, it's meant to be a 24 volt motor, running on 12 volts. That keeps the amperage draw down, while retaining adequate torque to chop everything up - thus extending the overall life cycle of the motor.

(Ingenious, these Americans...)
 
quote:

Originally posted by Vic Willman

Jeff, I got your direct e-mail to me at the office, but thought I'd rather answer your query here, so that more people would be able to view the answer. In addition to the toilet itself, wire, terminals, hose and clamps, you'll need plumbing fittings to allow you to tee into the pressurized fresh water system on the boat. If it were I, I'd tee into the pressure line, then add a SHUTOFF VALVE, then plumb from there to the toilet. The shutoff valve can be extremely useful when servicing the head in the future.

The toilets come complete. If you order the pressurized fresh water version, it comes with the solenoid valve and vacuum breaker built-in. If you order the raw water flushing version, the remotely-mounted raw water pump is included. A mounting kit is also provided (to mount the head to the deck). The style of switch you select is also included with the toilet. A matching household-size seat is also included with each toilet.

The part number you inquired about (# 220HF01202) is a Marine Elegance, household size seat (all Elegance models have this), in white, 12 volt, with a basic push button switch. You push the buttom, it flushes. You let go of the button, it stops flushing. This is the least-expensive, bare bones model. You asked about the difference between this model and a # 220HF01212 - the difference is that there's no such model as a 220HF01212. It doesn't exist.

Here's the model number breakdown:
220 = Marine Elegance
H = household size seat (they all have it); if you add an "A" before the "H", it is bone colored, rather than white. No "A" before the "H" indicates that it is white in color.
F = solenoid valve and vacuum breaker for connection to onboard pressurized fresh water.
An "R" instead of an "F" indicates it is supplied with a remotely-mounted seawater pump, for raw water flushing.
0 = indicates that the fittings are straight hose connections, not 90 degree hose connections (all Marine Elegance units have the straight hose connections, pointing down toward the deck).
12 = 12 volt (24 in place of the 12 indicates the head is a 24 volt model. The Marine Elegance is not offered in 32 volt or in 120 or 240 volt).

Examples: 220HF012 = Marine Elegance; household size seat and bowl in white; built-in solenoid valve and vacuum breaker for connection to onboard fresh water; straight hose fittings, pointing down; 12 volt, with Smart Control, fully programmable switch.
220AHR012 = Marine Elegance; bone-colored household sized bowl and seat; remote intake pump for raw water flushing, straight hose connections pointing down, 12 volt, Smart Control, fully programmable switch.

A little bit about the (3) switch styles of switches available:
Switch styles are entered after the voltage, at the end of the model number. No entry = Smart Control, as described above. It has (4) buttons on the panel: 1) Normal Flush (timed flush - water in, 3 short discharge bursts, water in again); 2) Water Saver Flush (water in, 1 short burst, water in again); 3) Empty Only - push and hold the button, water will leave the bowl without any coming in; 4) Water In only - push and hold the button, water will come into the bowl. This has a timed cutoff and will only fill the bowl about 2/3 full, so that it can't overflow the bowl if kids are playing with it. This switch (Smart Control)is included with the most expensive version of the head.

01 entered after the voltage (12 or 24) = a 3 button momentary switch panel, allowing 1) water-only to come into the bowl, 2) water to exit the bowl without any water coming in, or 3) water in and water out, simultaneously. These are manual buttons that must be pressed in and held, for the function desired. this is the midrange priced version of the head.

02 entered after the voltage (12 or 24) = single push button switch. Push the button and water comes in and out simultaneously while the button is pressed. Let go of the button and it stops. This is the least expensive of the 3 versions of the head.

All versions of the Marine Elegance head have a built-in loop, enabling the head to retain water in the bowl between flushes. There is no need for external vented loop fittings to be added if you wish to retain water in the bowl. Additionally, the 4 button and the 3 button switch versions also have the ability to empty the bowl, if this is desired - such as when rough seas are coming up, and you don't want the water splashing out of the toilet onto the decking.

The programmable switch is the most popular version of the head, but is also the most expensive.

At the Miami boat Show which just concluded, we introduced the Marine Elegance head with Sea/Fresh Option. This is an extra-cost add-on kit that allows the user to select either pressurized fresh water OR raw water (seawater) as the flushing media. A switch is included with all the other parts necessary, that allows switching from one flushing media to the other, at will. I don't have all the specific details on it just yet, but it will be put on our website shortly.






I decided to quote Vic's entire reply to bump it to the top. I may be a dum-dum as I could not find this info on model # codes any where.This explanation should be posted on the Raritan site.

Unfortunately, the boatfix Raritan section is useless. (I really miss being able to just call George). On the Raritan site, other than the PDF file I could not locate any info on the Elegance. Downloaded the catalog & it has not been updated since 2008.

Any info on the Sea/Fresh option? Has it gone into production yet? If it has, does Boatfix carry it? Any idea of cost? I have to make up my mind quickly as the new Ronco fresh water & holding tanks (to replace my Lectrasan)are being shipped this week.

I am in the "while I'm at it" mode after all the sawsall work on my boat. Already built a new mounting area to relocate the water heater. That will make everything else more accessible. I was able to squeeze in a 32 gal. holding tank & a 65 gal. water tank by creating a two step pad in the deepest part of the bilge. Holding tank low as possible & the water tank had to go higher to fit the 37" length between the stringers.

So now it is decision time on every thing else. Vic, is the Sea Era conversion a "better" unit than the ME? Both would be fresh water. On the Sea Era, what else would I need to convert my Crown to an updated fresh water flush unit?
Vic, as always Thanks for your time.
Al
 
I am also interested to see if the Sea/Fresh option is available and can be retrofitted on my 4 button fresh water Elegance model. This is the best head I have ever used in a boat and I had the latest top of the line VacuFlush before replacing it in less than 2 years. The Sea option would be nice when out on the hook for extended times when I don't feel like running my water maker to conserve my drinking/shower water.
Bill
 
quote:

Originally posted by Vic Willman

Bill, you're probably going to have to put a second set of foils and sensors on the tank, one for the HNT and the other for the Tank Monitor - hope you have enough room...





Vic a further update on the tank sending units. I ended up cutting a 1/2" strip out of the doubled up foil (on each side) and moving the 2 copper pads over so each new sensor has it's own foil set. Now there is no compromise in reading the Raritan tank level monitor or setting up the Hold-N-Treat. Everything is working like a charm. Now if I could just get an answer on the Sea/Fresh option with the 4 button remote I currently have. Thanks as always. Bill
 
Bill, it's out now. Send me a PM and I'll send you the info sheet on it. At the present time, you have to order the head that way, with the components pre-installed, but we'll soon have a kit to convert your existing one.

I believe you currently have the pressurized fresh water version. Am I correct?

And yes, it will work with the 4 button Smart Switch; all you're doing is selecting where the incoming water comes from.
 
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