protecting mahogany
- Thread starter bob t
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- Jan 1, 2000
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fwiw: I have -not- done this on my boat, but -do- do it for bathroom cabinet tops...
You might consider a base coat/first coat of straight epoxy ( NOT vinyl ester... ). Epoxy is highly water resistant, and most most paints will adhere to it nicely. ( Some minor prep may be required: sand lightly to smooth, and/or wipe with acteone to remove any "amine blush" ). While epoxy will go on thickly, do not "build it up", as a thick coat is more prone to cracks under pressure.
Another alternative is to paint using one of the higher grade marine paints, such as a two-part linear polyurethane. Expensive but effective. Follow the mfgr instructions closely, as virtually all failures are application related. This choice may also involve using the mfgr recommended primer...
You might consider a base coat/first coat of straight epoxy ( NOT vinyl ester... ). Epoxy is highly water resistant, and most most paints will adhere to it nicely. ( Some minor prep may be required: sand lightly to smooth, and/or wipe with acteone to remove any "amine blush" ). While epoxy will go on thickly, do not "build it up", as a thick coat is more prone to cracks under pressure.
Another alternative is to paint using one of the higher grade marine paints, such as a two-part linear polyurethane. Expensive but effective. Follow the mfgr instructions closely, as virtually all failures are application related. This choice may also involve using the mfgr recommended primer...
What kind of mahogany is it? Philippine (red meranti)?
Above the waterline I recommend a dark stain on Philippine or Honduras mahogany followed by a couple of coats of a long-oil sealer like Petitt Clear Sealer and 8-12 coats of varnish.
However, you are in Florida and don't want to go the varnish route.
I'd still give it a dark colored oil-based filler stain. Stain looks good and helps protect the wood from UV. Dark-stained wood doesn't look as yellow as a grade school desk after a couple of years. Finish with Cetol or Bristol Finish or similar long-life non-varnish clear finish and mix in anti-skid additive as desired/directed. Use the sealer recommended by the finish manufacturer. Don't use any chemicals on this job that aren't recommended by the finish manufacturer. Chemical compatibility between all components is key. Read and follow directions from manufacturer regarding sanding and other wood prep.
You can also paint, but why paint nice new mahogany?
Philippine and Honduras mahogany are hardwoods, but when it comes to dents and dings they are softwoods. Philippine (red meranti) is softer than Honduras but is more rot resistant. Honduras has better structural strength and is more dense. Both can look alike when quarter sawn.
Although this is an above the waterline job where I prefer clear sealer, I'd make an exception to this rule for swim platforms and find a long-life clear finish or two-part polyurethane paint that is compatible to epoxy sealer. Stain it if you want, then soak the living daylights out of it with Smith's Penetrating Epoxy. Keep feeding epoxy to the wood as long possible: until the epoxy starts to cure. Use the slow-cure formula and start early in the day when it's as cool as possible. Penetrating epoxy usually does not include a UV inhibitor, so topcoating with another finish that does is required.
Above the waterline I recommend a dark stain on Philippine or Honduras mahogany followed by a couple of coats of a long-oil sealer like Petitt Clear Sealer and 8-12 coats of varnish.
However, you are in Florida and don't want to go the varnish route.
I'd still give it a dark colored oil-based filler stain. Stain looks good and helps protect the wood from UV. Dark-stained wood doesn't look as yellow as a grade school desk after a couple of years. Finish with Cetol or Bristol Finish or similar long-life non-varnish clear finish and mix in anti-skid additive as desired/directed. Use the sealer recommended by the finish manufacturer. Don't use any chemicals on this job that aren't recommended by the finish manufacturer. Chemical compatibility between all components is key. Read and follow directions from manufacturer regarding sanding and other wood prep.
You can also paint, but why paint nice new mahogany?
Philippine and Honduras mahogany are hardwoods, but when it comes to dents and dings they are softwoods. Philippine (red meranti) is softer than Honduras but is more rot resistant. Honduras has better structural strength and is more dense. Both can look alike when quarter sawn.
Although this is an above the waterline job where I prefer clear sealer, I'd make an exception to this rule for swim platforms and find a long-life clear finish or two-part polyurethane paint that is compatible to epoxy sealer. Stain it if you want, then soak the living daylights out of it with Smith's Penetrating Epoxy. Keep feeding epoxy to the wood as long possible: until the epoxy starts to cure. Use the slow-cure formula and start early in the day when it's as cool as possible. Penetrating epoxy usually does not include a UV inhibitor, so topcoating with another finish that does is required.
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 3238
- Messages
- 4,831
My boats have been f-glass, yzer has a wooden boat. Listen to yzer. 