Rustoleum cold galvanizing compound

ALKA2710

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25407
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Which of the Rustoleum cold galvanizing compounds does everyone use on there tabs and props. There is a few different kinds available. Matte, paint, compound. Thanks
Al
 
I've been using Radnor aerosol for more than 10 years on my own running gear, intakes, transducers and trim tabs. I learned of this when viewing its use on skimmer boats at a landfill and seeing very clean steel and bronze after long time submersion in salt water. My use has shown excellent results over the years with only one early summer pull, pressure wash, wire brush, light sand and reapply. My boat remains in the water all year with no use for 6 winter months. It actually remains on the props quite well for the year. (unless they rub a sandy bottom, don't ask me how I know that)

From their web site.

-Radnor Cold Galvanizing Compound Zinc-Rich Primer is a high-performance primer containing 97pct pure zinc dust pigment blended with epoxy resin. Stops rust by electrochemical action on steel or galvanized coatings. The self-sacrificing zinc protects the base metal, preserving strength and prevents rust creepage in the area of scratches, unlike conventional primers..-RADNOR 14 OZ ORM-D 12EA/CA.-Non-Sagging Non-Clogging.-UNSPC CODE: 23171500. Color/Finish: -COLD GALV COMPOUND MATTE FINISH

Best price is at airgas dot com.
Rich
 
The Rustoleum cans I have been using from home depot for the past 3 seasons with great results just say "Cold Galvanizing compound" in 20 oz can. It says below that 'for repair of galvanized steel, sheet metal and fences'.
The instruction label says 'dried film contains 93% pure zinc'.

Hope this helps
 
Here you go. Also available at ACE.

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I am glad you brought this up. For rusty sections on a galvanized trailer is galvanized spray applied directly to the rust better than using a rust converter followed by a paint or even the galvanized spray? I have experienced some bleed through using galvanized spray directly on heavier rusted areas. Another option first using red rust primer followed by paint? I called Rustoleum about these options once and they seemed to like rusty primer on severely rusted surfaces, rust converter on others. Galvanized spray on galvanized items. Rust converter, in some forms, is like milk and can creep into areas that other products cannot which is good. However some rust converters require a latex top coat which can be a problem if a spray can paint is preferred. Anyone have experiences that worked well with a particular product?
 
Never used it on underwater metals but did use it on my previous galvanized trailer, LPS Cold Galvanize spray.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JackB

I am glad you brought this up. For rusty sections on a galvanized trailer is galvanized spray applied directly to the rust better than using a rust converter followed by a paint or even the galvanized spray? I have experienced some bleed through using galvanized spray directly on heavier rusted areas. Another option first using red rust primer followed by paint? I called Rustoleum about these options once and they seemed to like rusty primer on severely rusted surfaces, rust converter on others. Galvanized spray on galvanized items. Rust converter, in some forms, is like milk and can creep into areas that other products cannot which is good. However some rust converters require a latex top coat which can be a problem if a spray can paint is preferred. Anyone have experiences that worked well with a particular product?






You might try "Hammered" Rustoleum. I've used it with good results on my cast iron mufflers. Use a wire brush to remove the scale rust, tape off around your lights, and apply the paint. Add a second coat after the required rest time and remove the tape before the paint dries.
 
I have used the hammered product on outdoor furniture for effect but never considered it for this application. Doesn't it still require a base coat and why is hammered any better than regular Rustoleum?
 
quote:

Originally posted by JackB

I have used the hammered product on outdoor furniture for effect but never considered it for this application. Doesn't it still require a base coat and why is hammered any better than regular Rustoleum?






It has flakes of something that causes it to fill the voids where the pitting was. I don't have a can in front if me, but I believe priming is not needed.
 
"No issues using this on nibral?"

Clean the props well, mask what does not get painted and then two medium coats have lasted the season for us - about 7 months.
 
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