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sea cocks
- Thread starter bkair
- Start date
The following is a C/P of a 2007 post from another site.
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"Originally Posted by wingless View Post
A seacock is a critical safety device. It should be properly maintained according to the manufacturer's instructions!
The information presented here is not a recommendation! These are my observations and methods that worked for me. I started by following the manufacturer's instructions and continued investigating until I found the sources of the problems causing my seacocks to not work the way I wanted.
My 2000 Searay 380DA now has six seacocks. These are all Apollo Conbraco hull-mounted using the thru-hull and the flange attached to cored sections of the hull. These are attached w/ large self-tapping screws and washers.
My boat has two 1¼" valves for the engines, two 3/4" valves for the gen and the A/C, a 1½" valve for the macerator and a 1" valve I added for the bow raw water washdown.
These all worked okay. I'd lube these and actuate these but they never worked great and more lube / actuation never changed the operating characteristics.
The manufacturer was contacted to request their recommended service procedure. They suggested no lube. I pressed them for acceptable lube options and they finally stated a silicone lube is safe, but never WD-40.
The silicone lube was tried, but the lever movement remained about the same.
When the boat was out of the water I disassembled the output nipple, the drain plug and the lever mechanism.
All of the valves had one problem. Some had a second problem.
On all valves, the lever mechanism needed service. Once the lever is removed, the actuating rod and the rod retention nut is exposed. When I removed the retention nut, the two nylon washers and the actuating rod, I found crud on all three parts. Some had crud on the nut.
Those parts were cleaned of crud w/ methods that could not damage the surfaces.
At assembly, those three parts were lubricated w/ Mobil XHP222 marine grease that I purchased from McMaster-Carr. This is a great product and is now always aboard my boat. I use this lots.
These parts were all reassembled in the same orientation. This is important!
The retention nut was snugged and not over-tightened. If the nut is too tight, then the valve will be difficult to move.
On two seacocks, an examination of the stainless ball revealed a small lip that prevented full motion travel. I used the marine grease and my fingernail to remove that lip crud from the stainless.
The ball was lubed by hand onto that sphere w/ that Mobil marine grease. I also filled the drain w/ grease.
With the handle off I performed many 360° rotations of the ball / actuation rod. I pushed grease into the drain by hand periodically.
I would never use a grease gun onto a fitting at the drain, because high-pressure grease could cut the spherical ball seal.
Now, every seacock has a very easy / smooth motion. They have the feel of a silent light switch.
It should be possible to remove the retention nut / actuation rod while floating, but I don't know."
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YMMV
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"Originally Posted by wingless View Post
A seacock is a critical safety device. It should be properly maintained according to the manufacturer's instructions!
The information presented here is not a recommendation! These are my observations and methods that worked for me. I started by following the manufacturer's instructions and continued investigating until I found the sources of the problems causing my seacocks to not work the way I wanted.
My 2000 Searay 380DA now has six seacocks. These are all Apollo Conbraco hull-mounted using the thru-hull and the flange attached to cored sections of the hull. These are attached w/ large self-tapping screws and washers.
My boat has two 1¼" valves for the engines, two 3/4" valves for the gen and the A/C, a 1½" valve for the macerator and a 1" valve I added for the bow raw water washdown.
These all worked okay. I'd lube these and actuate these but they never worked great and more lube / actuation never changed the operating characteristics.
The manufacturer was contacted to request their recommended service procedure. They suggested no lube. I pressed them for acceptable lube options and they finally stated a silicone lube is safe, but never WD-40.
The silicone lube was tried, but the lever movement remained about the same.
When the boat was out of the water I disassembled the output nipple, the drain plug and the lever mechanism.
All of the valves had one problem. Some had a second problem.
On all valves, the lever mechanism needed service. Once the lever is removed, the actuating rod and the rod retention nut is exposed. When I removed the retention nut, the two nylon washers and the actuating rod, I found crud on all three parts. Some had crud on the nut.
Those parts were cleaned of crud w/ methods that could not damage the surfaces.
At assembly, those three parts were lubricated w/ Mobil XHP222 marine grease that I purchased from McMaster-Carr. This is a great product and is now always aboard my boat. I use this lots.
These parts were all reassembled in the same orientation. This is important!
The retention nut was snugged and not over-tightened. If the nut is too tight, then the valve will be difficult to move.
On two seacocks, an examination of the stainless ball revealed a small lip that prevented full motion travel. I used the marine grease and my fingernail to remove that lip crud from the stainless.
The ball was lubed by hand onto that sphere w/ that Mobil marine grease. I also filled the drain w/ grease.
With the handle off I performed many 360° rotations of the ball / actuation rod. I pushed grease into the drain by hand periodically.
I would never use a grease gun onto a fitting at the drain, because high-pressure grease could cut the spherical ball seal.
Now, every seacock has a very easy / smooth motion. They have the feel of a silent light switch.
It should be possible to remove the retention nut / actuation rod while floating, but I don't know."
===============
YMMV
Marine grease applied externally to the point where the lever shaft enters the casting, plus frequent exercise has been sufficient to keep my HD Groco seacocks working smoothly. But just in case, I do keep a short length of pipe handy to fit over the big cast bronze handle for extra leverage in an emergency situation.