You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Shocking problem...lol.
- Thread starter Shore
- Start date
Shore,
You are coming across as a little thick. Jim id'd your probable cause, which explains all your symptoms. I suppose you can convince yourself you don't really have a problem. Then again, your human multimeter demonstration has already been posted elsewhere as an example of a real bonehead maneuver.
Brett
You are coming across as a little thick. Jim id'd your probable cause, which explains all your symptoms. I suppose you can convince yourself you don't really have a problem. Then again, your human multimeter demonstration has already been posted elsewhere as an example of a real bonehead maneuver.
Brett
Yes, in any scenario this is a problem. I was siding with the reverse polarity issue, but now that you mention that your onboard meter says you only have 85 volts I'm thinking you have a bad extension cord, shore power cord, corroded terminals or combination of the above. If you have a badly corroded/connected neutral lead and voltage drop, you could easily be shocked by touching your bonded trim tabs.
quote:
Originally posted by LtBrett
Shore,
You are coming across as a little thick. Jim id'd your probable cause, which explains all your symptoms. I suppose you can convince yourself you don't really have a problem. Then again, your human multimeter demonstration has already been posted elsewhere as an example of a real bonehead maneuver.
Brett
Thx Brett for the comment. It always helps when smartguy chimes in.
Moving on, I keep asking ?'s cause I don't fully understand yet. Lots of different info so I have to decider a bit.
Get out your multimeter or get a new good one.
1.) put the meter on AC Volts.
2.) Stick the probes into the outlet you are ultimately plugging into. Record the voltage.
3.) In the same outlet, stick one probe into the ground hole and the other into the smaller of the two sockets, then from ground into the larger of the two sockets. Record both voltages. The reading to the larger of the two should be zero.
4.) Plug the boat cable back into the socket and go onto the boat and do the same in an outlet there. Come back and give us the results.
Lets start there.
1.) put the meter on AC Volts.
2.) Stick the probes into the outlet you are ultimately plugging into. Record the voltage.
3.) In the same outlet, stick one probe into the ground hole and the other into the smaller of the two sockets, then from ground into the larger of the two sockets. Record both voltages. The reading to the larger of the two should be zero.
4.) Plug the boat cable back into the socket and go onto the boat and do the same in an outlet there. Come back and give us the results.
Lets start there.
quote:
Originally posted by Shore
The needle gauge on the 110v panel shows 85 or so hooked up to shore power.Not sure if that is correct or what.
I would verify that reading with your volt meter. If everything on the AC side is turned off, you should read the same voltage on the boat as you read at the outlet you plug into. Voltage drop is current * resistance. If the current you draw (assuming everything is turned off) is zero, then the voltage drop is zero.
Originally posted by Ghost
Yes, in any scenario this is a problem. I was siding with the reverse polarity issue, but now that you mention that your onboard meter says you only have 85 volts I'm thinking you have a bad extension cord, shore power cord, corroded terminals or combination of the above. If you have a badly corroded/connected neutral lead and voltage drop, you could easily be shocked by touching your bonded trim tabs.
[/quote
I've always questioned the 85 reading. I'll try out my buddies shore cord and see what it reads. I did shorten this shore cord and it does have an adapter to allow a standard 3 prong cord. I do use a Honda 2000i for power on the hook.
I get 123v in all outlets socket to socket.In the larger socket to ground hole I can get anywhere from 0-.15v on both the garage and boat outlet.
The inside gauge still reads about 90 or so.The water heater is the only thing drops it and only by a touch.
The inside gauge still reads about 90 or so.The water heater is the only thing drops it and only by a touch.
Okay then, so we have 123V from the house. You also have 123V in an outlet located on the boat, after it has gone through the cable? I think that's what I read. Sounds like we likely have good power to the boat, so the problem must be downstream at very least from the cord.
What do you mean by the water heater drops it? Can you explain that in more detail. Readings may drop when under load and that should be one of our tests. The water heater is a good one as it will draw some decent power when heating. Define "a touch"? Even a half volt or so can sometimes matter.
Lets troubleshoot the 90 reading on the boat guage. Can you safely get to the back of the guage and duplicate the reading on your meter?
I think your problem is downstream of the main panel, but lets rule it out 100% before going further.
The rest of you feel free to chime in if you think I'm going in the wrong direction.
bp
What do you mean by the water heater drops it? Can you explain that in more detail. Readings may drop when under load and that should be one of our tests. The water heater is a good one as it will draw some decent power when heating. Define "a touch"? Even a half volt or so can sometimes matter.
Lets troubleshoot the 90 reading on the boat guage. Can you safely get to the back of the guage and duplicate the reading on your meter?
I think your problem is downstream of the main panel, but lets rule it out 100% before going further.
The rest of you feel free to chime in if you think I'm going in the wrong direction.
bp
We are heading out right now but I will have my iphone and check it when I hook the genny up.I can get behind the panel fairly easy enough.I'll touch base then...I had an impeller issue creep up that ended up taking all day.
FTR, there is no corrosion visible anywhere right now.
Thx guys
FTR, there is no corrosion visible anywhere right now.
Thx guys
I had the discovered the exact same problem when I started to change my lower unit gear lube last weekend, so I've been folowing this thread with great interest. Can someone please explain why having the polarity reversed would cause this?
Thanks
Thanks
quote:
Originally posted by GrecRI
Can someone please explain why having the polarity reversed would cause this?
The 12v and 120v ground are also tied to the bonding (where all metal things are tied together).
Energize the ground system incorrectly, touch something bonded and make an easier path to ground and you should feel it. The only thing that I don't get is why you don't get a real jolt.
Just guessing here.