Shore power adapter fuse

D

drfeno

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Jun 19, 2008
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30284
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I'm refitting an older Silverton 31' convertible (almost done). I recently removed the old shore power adapter and fuse. the fuse was on the hot wire, with an indicator light that showed through to the cockpit. I literally had to cut it out and the fuse inside was just wasted. Anyway, this shore power leads to a 110 volt breaker panel with a main breaker. Is there any need for there to be a fuse AND a main breaker, or can I get away with just the breaker. I've searched for a shore power adapter fuse, but have come up with nothing that looks like what I removed.

Thanks
 
My initial reaction is yes you would be ok without that. You have a main breaker on the boat's panel. But you probably also have another breaker on the dock where the shore power plugs in. You're probably fine.
 
It's not uncommon to have a breaker/fuse right at the location where the shore cord first enters the boat. In fact I'm fairly sure it one of many AYBC recommendations.

Many older boats didn't/don't have them. So it's probably not the end of the world if you don't. But I'm sure some surveyor will give you a hard time about it some day if you don't have one.
 
I m pretty sure ABYC requires a fuse or breaker where the shore power cord comes in the boat is the distance to the main breaker is over 8' ( price or take a couple of feet... Forgot th exact distance)

Those old fuses have always been a PITA. You can easily replace them by a breaker, Marinco makes a fitting that looks like a shore power inlet but with a breaker. That's the way to go instead of th old fuses.
 
I think it is 10':

11.10.2.8.3 Additional Overcurrent Protection - If the location of the main shore power disconnect circuit
breaker is in excess of 10 feet (three meters) from the shore power inlet or the electrical attachment point of
a permanently installed shore power cord, additional fuses or circuit breakers shall be provided within 10
feet (three meters) of the inlet or attachment point to the electrical system of the boat. Measurement is made
along the conductors.

Even though 8' is even better............D..............
 
quote:
Originally posted by drfeno

Click to expand...


yes you should retain a fuse/breaker where the power enters the boat for two reasons.

first; the breaker/fuse protects the wiring from over current. If you connected to a shore power with a splitter to a higher amperage plug at the pedestal, in theory you would be bringing higher amperage on to the boat and thru to the panel where the main panel breaker would protect the branch circuits. in this scenario the fuse breaker at boats cable connection point makes the shore power cable alone see the higher amperage and is theoretically un protected. however, the shore power cord is not enclosed and less at risk for over heating than the boat's interior wiring which may be enclosed.

second;

in the event that you have to de energize the vessel due to an overload/overheat/fire, the fuse/breaker at the point of entry can be tripped without you having to get on to the dock to do that at the power pedestal or touch the cord.

from a liability perspective, its a good idea to leave the line voltage work configured as the boat was built or hire a lic marine electrician to change it. if there is damage to the boat and your insurance carrier figures out it was caused by improper electrical modifications they could fail to pay a claim.
 
Thanks All,

After I posted the question, I did more research, and found out about the 10' provision. The distance is probably about 10 feet, so I should err on the safe side. I will probably go with a breaker since I did look, and did not find a fuse holder arrangement anything like my old existing one available.
 
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