Soaking teak

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frosh coach

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I've used Snappy Teak-Nu in the past and I'm very happy with it. This year I have some smaller pieces of teak from inside the boat (searay 230 cuddy cabin) that I'm going to refinish. I'm thinking about removing the pieces, and rinsing them, then letting them soak in part a for 30mins the scrubbing with a brush. Then I'll dip them in part b, scrub and rinse.

Has anyone tied this method (of soaking)?
 
Why don't you just sand the wood in the cabin? It will come out nice and new once you sand off the old crappy layer.

Removing the pieces seems to be more work than needed.

30 minutes to soak is too long IMHO.
 
I thought about sanding the pieces. They have only been oiled in the past. I want to clean them and then coat them with certol (sp) from sinkens.
What grit snad paper do you use when sanding?
 
I'd start with something like Bar Keepers Friend or Spic n Span before going to two part cleaner.

After a cleaning like that you'll need to start with 80 grit followed by 120 then down to 220 or perhaps even down to 320.

I would not use Cetol. I would use a good one part interior satin poly. Long lasting, good looking, easy to apply multiple coats without sanding between every coat, and cheap to buy. They even have it in spray cans.
 
If the pieces of teak are easy to remove, then I would remove them from the boat and sand them. 23ft. is a small cabin to be sanding in and it will be a mess. If you want to use Sikkens, I would remove the pieces of teak, sand them as Capt. Bill said with 80 grit, 120, 220, then possibly 320 until they are smooth. Then use a teak cleaner, scrub and rinse. Followed by a brightener, scrub and rinse. Allow the pieces to dry thoroughly, then apply a few coats of Sikkens with a foam brush. The Sikkens "Natural Teak" color actually looks very nice compared to the yellowish/gold color that is common. If you use the Sikkens and the pieces are inside the cabin, then it will most likely last for years without much maintenance or touch up.
 
<< 320 might be going too far. A mite bit rougher and the surface treatment should stay on longer. Too smooth and it might start to peel sooner. >>
 
quote:
Originally posted by Laguna Al

If the pieces of teak are easy to remove, then I would remove them from the boat and sand them. 23ft. is a small cabin to be sanding in and it will be a mess. If you want to use Sikkens, I would remove the pieces of teak, sand them as Capt. Bill said with 80 grit, 120, 220, then possibly 320 until they are smooth. Then use a teak cleaner, scrub and rinse. Followed by a brightener, scrub and rinse. Allow the pieces to dry thoroughly, then apply a few coats of Sikkens with a foam brush. The Sikkens "Natural Teak" color actually looks very nice compared to the yellowish/gold color that is common. If you use the Sikkens and the pieces are inside the cabin, then it will most likely last for years without much maintenance or touch up.

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I think you meant clean first and then sand. Water raises the grain and defeats the purpose of sanding.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Radioactive

<< 320 might be going too far. A mite bit rougher and the surface treatment should stay on longer. Too smooth and it might start to peel sooner. >>

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I might agree on exterior teak and varnish. Even then you just thin the first few coats 50% or so and it bonds fine.

But I've never had a lifting problem with very smooth teak on the interior no matter what I've applied.
 
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