Trailer safety chains

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Underwaterwelder

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What’s the best way to attach safety chains to a trailer (not the truck… the trailer)??

My trailer had safety cables. I never really liked them because they had a memory that made crossing them hard. The end of this season I realized one was rusted out and needed to be replaced. I asked the mechanic to replace with chains. He put two chains back where the cables were originally mounted. They were mounted under the V block under the tongue. But the way everything tightened down, it’s all uneven and the chains are pinched and it looks like $hi¥… the V-block is crooked it makes crossing the chains impossible. I don’t fault the guy for what he did. But I think it could be better

It seems like everything is weld on brackets/mounts. The trailer is galvanized so I don’t want to weld on it.

I was thinking drilling a hole in the tongue (at the red dot on each side) and adding the biggest grade 8 bolt and nylock that will fit through the chain. And building outward by adding steel spacer (so the chain doesn’t pinch weird) the chain. another heavy washer outside the chain. Each chain sized enough to have a break strength of higher capacity than the GVWR.

Any thoughts or opinions? Any help? Thanks!

Load Rite trailer GVWR 9790 lbs. trailer capacity 8000lbs. 2001 245 Searay weekender 5500 lbs dry (I think) 2021 Chevy 2500.
 

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Have you tried Load Rite for recommendations? That would be my first recommendation.
 
With regard to the cables are they coiled or relatively straight? I know it is different having towed a 25'er in the past using chains, but I use coiled cables to connect the toad behind the RV. I just push down on the low one and they are easier to unclip at that point. Once released they pile up separately under the remaining connection.
 
I don’t have a picture of mine, and not sure how well I will be able to describe it - but pretty sure the front bolt of the coupler is where the chain attaches. The bolt goes through one side of the coupler, through the trailer tongue, and out the other side of the coupler. Since the chain is inside the tongue of the trailer, no washers are needed. I always wondered if this was a good setup, because if the coupler somehow tears off the front of the trailer, the chain will be lost as well. But it is how it came from the manufacturer, so I never re-engineered it.

Not that different than what you are suggesting, but one bolt through the red dots, with the chain attached inside the trailer frame, so no need for any washers. Or just use the bolt already there, above the red dot.
 
boatbum said:
With regard to the cables are they coiled or relatively straight? I know it is different having towed a 25'er in the past using chains, but I use coiled cables to connect the toad behind the RV. I just push down on the low one and they are easier to unclip at that point. Once released they pile up separately under the remaining connection.
Click to expand...
The cables were not straight. And had a very bad memory. To the point where the hooks wouldn’t sit right when connected to the truck. They did not coil in a useful way ever.
 
I have those coiled cables on a McClain trailer and agree they can be a pain to deal with but not so badly that I changed them.
However, on my lowboy work trailer, which did not have chains when I bought it many years ago, I bolted the chains similar to what you described. Except they are bolted to the sides of the frame just about 12" behind the tongue. Although the trailer isn't galvanized, I'm not a welder so used the bolts.
However, since they have never been used I can't tell you if they will do the job. ;)
 
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