Trim Tab Change WOW!

Thought it would be good to post out Trim Tabs 101 again:

If you are new to using Trim Tabs you may find this helpful in learning how to use them to achieve the best results. All boats react differently to Trim Tabs and the best way to find out what works best for yours is to experiment, and remember, use short bursts of the controls and let the boat settle down between corrections. Using them will soon become second nature.

Also some boats that suffer from "wandering" at low speeds (particularly I/Os) will benefit from having the Tabs fully down at no wake speeds. They sort of act like feathers on an arrow and make steering a little easier.
Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

Getting and Staying Trimmed

All boats assume different fore to aft attitudes at different throttle settings and vary in sensitivity to lateral weight distribution.

A boat’s optimum running attitude is determined by the operator. While some people may define optimum running attitude as the highest possible speed for a given amount of engine RPMs, others desire the best possible fuel economy, yet others may be trimming the boat to get just the right mix of speed and wake (such as for waterskiing.)

Optimum running attitude is when the boat is running to the operator’s satisfaction for the given operating conditions. There are as many optimum running attitudes as there are boats and boat owners

A good way to determine a boats optimum running angle is to run the boat lightly loaded at full speed in calm water. During this test observe the boat’s bow in relation to the horizon. Most boats run at or near their optimum attitude under these conditions. This should give you a feel for the appearance of the wake and bow spray when running at an efficient attitude. Note that not all boats will achieve their optimum running attitude under these conditions. Some boats will benefit from extra lift even when running at their maximum throttle settings. If you feel the boat will benefit from added bow down trim when running at speed start with the trim tabs fully up and deflect the trim tabs in short bursts. Be alert to changes in the boats handling, as you bring the bow down. Observe any changes in RPMs and/or speed. Adjust power trim if applicable.

Indications of Running Untrimmed
When a boat is running untrimmed the bow spray will exit the sides of the boat far aft. The stern wave (wake) is high and curling like a breaker on the beach. The rooster tail is high and close to the stern. The engine is laboring and the ride tends to be less smooth.

Indications of Running Trimmed
The bow spray moves forward and is flung not as far from the boat. The wake diminishes in height, as the rooster tail flattens out and moves away from the boat. The engine is operating under less load as evidenced by the tachometer and speed as well as sounding “less strained”.

One Step at a Time
The key to obtaining optimal results from trim tabs is to operate them in short “bursts” and let the boat react before making another adjustment. The amount of time between corrections is influenced by the size of the trim tabs and the boat’s speed. This will help avoid overtrimming or ending up with one tab too far down when correcting lateral trim. You will quickly become acquainted with a boat’s particular traits.

Take Off
Properly sized trim tabs can significantly reduce the time needed to get up on plane. They also allow a boat to keep its bow down and stay on plane at lower speeds.
As the throttle is advanced the stern of the boat begins to squat, lifting the bow. As the boat accelerates, push the bow down position of the helm control in short bursts. The boat reacts by the stern lifting, the bow coming down, speed increasing, and reduced engine laboring. If you over do it and deflect the tabs too far the boat will end up overtrimmed. When over trimmed, the steering becomes “over sensitive” and wants to pull off course to port or starboard. If this occurs, operate the control “bow up" until the desired attitude is established.

Getting the Most from Power Trim
Adjust the trim tabs to achieve the desired running attitude. Then use the power trim to position the propeller thrust parallel to the water flow. If necessary, re-adjust the trim tabs to fine tune the attitude. By observing the boat’s speed and engine RPMs the best combination of trim tabs and power trim will be apparent. Trim tab angle indicators and a power trim angle indicator are particularly useful in duplicating effective settings.

Trimming to Sea Conditions
When running into a head sea you want to trim the bow down so the sharp forward sections of the boat do their work cleaving the waves. This provides the most comfortable ride and minimizes stress on the boat (and passengers). In a following sea the tabs should be fully retracted for maximum steering response.

Correction of a List
The normal control setup for trim tabs operates in relation to the desired changes in trim and not the actual movement of the tabs. Therefore, do not think about what the tabs are doing, but rather on the control and what you want the boat to do. As above, make the corrections in bursts and allow the boat to settle to the new settings. You may find it easier to correct the boat’s fore and aft attitude before you correct the side to side trim.

Correction of Porpoising
Operate the tabs in very short bursts of about half a second. Continue until porpoising subsides. The objective is to have only a very slight amount of tab deflection, just the amount needed to cure the up and down motion of the bow.
 
Tabman - I have a 32' Cruiser's Yacht with twin 6.2 Horizons with B-III's I don't know size of current tabs but can measure this weekend.
 
quote:

Originally posted by pdecat

RWS Did running angle change?
Are the diesels heavier and move the weight more forward?





==========================================

With the gas engines the larger tabs with drop fins helped immensely. I was able to document this.

With the diesels I rarely use the tabs, unless sea conditions require it.

While I cannot "document" this , I believe the repowered vessel has an improved running angle as in more of her is out of the water when up on plane.

With the diesels, a full tank and a load of guests, food, ice and beverages, her a$$ used to feel as if it was DRAGGING.

With the diesels, I believe more of her is out of the water.

So back to the gas engines: GET THE LONGER TABS WITH THE DROPFINS for me it was a direct fit, no actuators needed. TABMAN handled the calculations for me at the Ft Lauderdale Boat Show in 2002.

Pretty amazing bang for your buck !

RWS
 
Tabman, good to see you back! I asked about you when I called Bennett and they said you were fine. Your colleagues were great to deal with and were a big help. I just have one question. Mine did not come with holes for the anodes while the OEM units did. So I drilled them and put two, 3 inch rudder anodes on each one. Does Bennett not drill them unless specified?
 
I have a 27 foot downeaster Judge Yacht with a single Cummins 6bt inboard. I am thinking of putting tabs on before launching. My main reason was to help level the boat. It runs bow high at cruise and usually tilts to Starboard because of the engine torque.

Any suggestion on sizes?? Boat is lightly equiped. Weighs about 5k
 
GeeBee,

Yes we only put holes for zincs on if specified by the boat builder. We don't know if the boat will be in salt water, or if the builder might bond the Tabs into their system, and if we drill a hole and no zinc it makes a nice fountain of water!

By the way we normally put rudder zincs on the tops of the Tabs only.

Tom
Bennett Marine
 
quote:

Originally posted by psugar

I have a 27 foot downeaster Judge Yacht with a single Cummins 6bt inboard. I am thinking of putting tabs on before launching. My main reason was to help level the boat. It runs bow high at cruise and usually tilts to Starboard because of the engine torque.

Any suggestion on sizes?? Boat is lightly equiped. Weighs about 5k






I have found that wide span (side to side) short chord (fore to aft) works best on downeast style hulls. Also their slightly slower speeds mean large Tabs are a very good choice.

If it were my boat I would fit 30 x 12 if there is room. If there is not enough for that then 24 x 12.

Tom
Bennett Marine
 
quote:

Originally posted by Tabman

GeeBee,

Yes we only put holes for zincs on if specified by the boat builder. We don't know if the boat will be in salt water, or if the builder might bond the Tabs into their system, and if we drill a hole and no zinc it makes a nice fountain of water!

By the way we normally put rudder zincs on the tops of the Tabs only.

Tom
Bennett Marine






The OEM tabs came from Sea Ray with them on both sides, so I just followed that lead. Is there any harm?
 
Tabman - my tabs measure 11 1/2 wide by 18 long - Bennett of course. Boat is a 2005 Cruiser's Yacht 320 Express with twin Merc B-III's powered by 6.2 Horizons - 320 hp each. Boat has always taken it time to get on plane - even with present tabs extended. Can I switch out the tabs only - Or will I have to purchase new rams??

Thanks!
 
quote:

Originally posted by GeeBee

quote:

Originally posted by Tabman

GeeBee,

Yes we only put holes for zincs on if specified by the boat builder. We don't know if the boat will be in salt water, or if the builder might bond the Tabs into their system, and if we drill a hole and no zinc it makes a nice fountain of water!

By the way we normally put rudder zincs on the tops of the Tabs only.

Tom
Bennett Marine






The OEM tabs came from Sea Ray with them on both sides, so I just followed that lead. Is there any harm?








They were probably changed at one point since SeaRay has us only put them on the top.

No real harm, the water flow is a little cleaner over the bottom of the Tab with them only on the Top. And one is all the zinc usually needed.

Tom
Bennett Marine
 
quote:

Originally posted by RumDiet

Tabman - my tabs measure 11 1/2 wide by 18 long - Bennett of course. Boat is a 2005 Cruiser's Yacht 320 Express with twin Merc B-III's powered by 6.2 Horizons - 320 hp each. Boat has always taken it time to get on plane - even with present tabs extended. Can I switch out the tabs only - Or will I have to purchase new rams??

Thanks!






The same actuators (rams) can handle a larger span (side to side) Tab. Do you have room to fit a larger span? Also the actuators will need to be in the middle of the span.

Tom
Bennett Marine
 
Tabman - Yes - there is about 2" on both sides of the current tab. Which is better - longer or wider and how do I go about ordering?
 
quote:

Originally posted by RumDiet

Tabman - Yes - there is about 2" on both sides of the current tab. Which is better - longer or wider and how do I go about ordering?






Wider (side to side) is much better. We cannot recommenced going
longer than our 12" chord (actually it's 11-5/8") since it may put too much stress on the actuator. Plus it is not as efficient.

You could step up to 24" x 12" Tabs. The part number for Tab and hinge plate is TPA2412. You would need two each. You can inquire at you favorite marine parts dealer. Or search that part number on Google.

Tom
Bennett Marine
 
Tabman - got the tabs - believe it or not - ordered yesterday - received today! No instructions - where can I find them on line. I have questions about placement, and whether I have to bleed the hydraulics to get the tabs on - tabs are fully retracted now - I don't want any surprises - also - looks like I have to drill the holes for the actuators? Is that correct? Final question and one I have wondered about is paint - I generally use the same bottom paint as the boat - Micron CSC - is this good or should I use something without copper like Trilux?

Hopefully I'll get them on this weekend - too bad we won't be launching until second week in May - Waay behind because of the weather here!

Thanks for your help.
 
Rd,

Here is a link to the installation instructions http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/trimtab_es2000_installation.pdf

The Trim Tabs are self bleeding, running them up and down 3 - 4 times will automatically purge an air in the system.

The best people to ask about painting are the paint manufactures, they will call for a primer and then anti-fouling. Take a look at their websites and you will find their recommendations for underwater metal.

Don't forget you will need zinc anodes on the Tabs if you keep it in salt water, and don't prime or paint under the zincs.

I am not sure what you mean about drilling holes for the actuators. Do you mean repositioning them on the transom? If so that is covered in the instructions I linked to.

As seen below the Tabs should have hole in them for the actuators.



I hope this helps!

Tom
Bennett Marine
 
That helps a lot - I couldn't find the instructions on the Bennett site - already bought the anodes - I'll let you know how it goes over the weekend.
 
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