What type of oil?

I never understood the words, "Synthetic blend". Really, any multi viscosity oil could be called "Synthetic Blend". Anytime I see the words, I run, because it is usually overpriced compared to a comparable multi viscosity oil. I think it is a marketing gimmick. Either use a full synthetic or go with regular oil.
 
Capt. Bill. Is there no acid buildup in the oil? And how do the tests account for shearing?
 
Regardless of what other people are using or recommending, if it were my boat, I would dig out the manual and use what the manufacturer recommends. If you can't find the original manual you can probably find it online.

PS: I would change the oil and the filter as recommended by the manufacturer even if the oil doesn't look "worn out" or dirty.
 
Back in the early 90's Merc would have recommended their 30wt oil which they no longer sell. So the questions is 'should someone use a compatable oil that is similiar to Merc's original oil' or 'switch to an oil that is designed for the newer generation engines'. Merc will now recommend their synthetic 25-40wt. I wonder how many millions of dollars Merc spent on R&D validating the new oil for usage in older engines. Their goal is to have an oil formulated so that the engine out lives the warranty plus a few more years. After that, they are more than willing to sell someone a new engine. If 20+ year old engines see increase in wear because of the oil, what should they be complaing about. In their eyes, 20+ years is a long life for an engine.
 
quote:
Originally posted by KiDa

Capt. Bill. Is there no acid buildup in the oil? And how do the tests account for shearing?

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As long as the TAN, TBN, oxidation, viscosity, etc. numbers are good at the time of analysis, it's not an issue from what I understand after talking with different oil analysis people.

Since contamination is one of the major reason for those numbers to go from good to bad, using ultra fine bypass filters leads keeps the contaminates to a minimum which goes a long way to keeping these numbers at their proper levels.

You are also keeping the additive package and correct viscosity up by the addition of new oil in the form of make up oil. And I fill my main and bypass filter elements up with fresh oil when I change them as well.

And of course with or without bypass filtration, if the numbers indicate it, you just change the oil completely at that time.

Fluid analysis is nothing new. And with the constantly increasing cost of new petroleum products it just makes more sense. Not to mention it can warn you of potential engine problems before they become severe or catastrophic.

Here is the lab I'll be using to test the fluids on the new boat I'm running: http://www.titanlab.com/testing-options/oil-analysis-report.asp

Lucky for me on this boat one of the old captains was smart enough to have installed very high quality bypass filters on the mains for both the oil and fuel. When I spoke with him about it and his results with them he said based on oil analysis he never had to changed the oil in the mains. I'll be adding the same type of filters to the gensets soon so I most likely will rarely have to change their oil as well.

And the best part is, since this boat has CATs in it, if I do have to change the oil, I'll just dump the old oil in the fuel tanks and burn it up with the fuel. No storing or disposing of 40+ gallons of old oil. :-)
 
quote:
Originally posted by Capt. Bill1

quote:
Originally posted by Padraig

Hey, Cap. Bill1, are you a list moderator as well as a captain?

This topic is boat related and obviously many find it interesting and worthy of discussion. If you don't....... then ignore it.

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Not sure how you read into my post that I in any way thought the topic was not worth discussion? In fact I thought I was adding to that discussion by pointing out ways to save money and conserve oil by using fact based methods of extending your engines oil change intervals.

So if that is of no interest to you, you feel free to ignore it.

Or perhaps you work for STP or some other motor honey company and I stepped in your rice bowl?

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Sorry Captain, because of your signature, "Take it to NBR", I thought you were trying to shut the discussion down. Now I know it is on all your posts. My mistake.

I do agree with you that additives such as STP are not needed. I do like and use synthetic oil. IMO it is cheap insurance. No rice bowl involved. (G)
Maybe I should buy some stock in Royal Purple.
 
Hey no problem. I was scratching my head over why you thought I wanted to shut down the discussion. I've misread stuff on a forum a number of times. So no harm, no foul as far as I'm concerned. :-)
 
Capt.Bill1
What is the cost of the oil analysis? For $25 I can change the filter and 7qts of oil. Granted I have no idea of the condition of the existing oil or what contaminents may be in there. While the system you referred to may make sense in a diesel engine with 40 gallons of oil, I'm not so sure it makes total financial sense in an gas engine. If so, then do you have a comparable unit installed in all your vehicles?
 
Interesting Bill. I would need to study it more to understand it. What has me baffled is that you replace X% of the original oil which had 100% of the additives. The dilution factor there is too much in the 100% or you are flirting with danger with X%, yet the arrangement has been working for you for years. I'M SO CONFUSED!
 
quote:
Originally posted by Pa Mikee

Capt.Bill1
What is the cost of the oil analysis? For $25 I can change the filter and 7qts of oil. Granted I have no idea of the condition of the existing oil or what contaminents may be in there. While the system you referred to may make sense in a diesel engine with 40 gallons of oil, I'm not so sure it makes total financial sense in an gas engine. If so, then do you have a comparable unit installed in all your vehicles?

Click to expand...


Typically, depending on the extent of the analysis, it runs $10 - $30.

Bypass filters cost much more of course.

So it may not make sense at that level. Other than the fact that if done regularly it can keep track of the health of your engine. And/or you intend to keep your vehicle for years and years.

The bypass filters I've only installed on diesel engines. Because that all I've ever had in any boat I've owned (other than outboards) or run professionally. Although I do know people who have added bypass filters to their gas powered cars.
 
quote:
Originally posted by KiDa

Interesting Bill. I would need to study it more to understand it. What has me baffled is that you replace X% of the original oil which had 100% of the additives. The dilution factor there is too much in the 100% or you are flirting with danger with X%, yet the arrangement has been working for you for years. I'M SO CONFUSED!

Click to expand...


Look at it this way, if the oil is kept clean or cleaner the additives last much longer. So topping them off helps them last even longer.

As long as the numbers show the oil to be with in it's working range there is no need to change it. It's still doing it's job.

Take a look at this:

http://www.gulfcoastfilters.com/shell_report_.htm
 
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