Windlass Anchor not working

dhastings

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2015
RO Number
33881
Messages
24
My windlass, Purasan, and fresh water pump is not working but the battery is good. What do you suggest to check?
 
Often, when there are several devices that fail, a ground wire is the culprit.

What have you checked?
 
Check for tightness and any corrosion at all battery terminals and battery switch? Battery switch On to correct position? Breakers ON? If multiple batteries, are all batteries' neg posts cabled together and one to the engine and bus bar?
As Radioactive suggests check the main connection at the negative bus bar.

If you use a multimeter or 12vDC test light you can have ne probe on the battery neg terminal and test for positive supply at each non-working load. if it indicates power to the load the neg side is bad. (Vice versa with battery positive post. )
If you have no tester just use a suitable jumper wire from battery positive to load's positive side to see if it then works. Separately, same with neg post to neg side of the load.
 
Frankly, we are mechanically challenged but understand the comments above. Have not checked the ground wire. Have been looking for the circuit breakers for the battery and cannot find circuit breaker and/or fuse. This all started when we had to have the Purasan reworked. The system was empacted, got that fixed but then the mixer motor and circuit board in the Purasan system had to be replaced. All that was done and seemed to have messed up the solenoid in the area that feeds the windlass, the freshwater pump and the Purasan water supply. More than $1K later we still don't have cuddy head and have lost windlass and fresh water pump. 2003 50x16 Gibson Houseboat for sale LOL
 
Since you have recently had "work done", the suspect area moves to where the work was done.

It is not uncommon for wires to be moved around, and/or disconnected/re-connected in order to be able to get at the device to be repaired.

This offers the chance to dislodge connections as well as to forget to reattach something that was "temporarily" removed for access.

A visual check of the area "might" spot a loose wire. A "hands on" "wiggle test" of wires in the area may also be useful.

The better method is as described above: check for continuity with a tester. The testing itself is simple and easy. Getting to where you need to attach the tester is "left as an exercise for the student"! ;)
 
You just had $1k's worth of work done and now have problems related to that work? A call to your'mechanic' to get things right again is in order. Once that's done, find a new mechanic. Hy
 
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