I'm winterizing my new Yamaha 115 HP for the first time. My only concern is about getting all the water out of the engine. Yamaha's service manual says to just leave it in the down or in position.Does it self-drain? Is that sufficient enough? Should I try to run some low pressure air through it at the flushing attachment?
Winterizing Yamaha 115
- Thread starter kauaiman
- Start date
If you are talking about the 115 4 stroke mine drained well just by leaving it in the down position.
I do not know how long you have owned the engine of if you plan to do the full winterize with fluids, filters, fog, zincs, and fuel evap but it is fairly easy to do with that engine.
I do not know how long you have owned the engine of if you plan to do the full winterize with fluids, filters, fog, zincs, and fuel evap but it is fairly easy to do with that engine.
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I have a 90 hp Yamaha four stroke. I pump some pink into the fresh water flush fitting, then leave the engine down to drain it o it. Get a bottle of Yamaha EFI engine storage fogging oil and follow the simple directions. Stabilize your fuel and you are done!
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Pardon my ignorance. I am from da Sout and the concept of "winterizing" is a bot vague. Besides, 'roun heah, we still have a month of summer and several fall months to go...
Isn't it a bit early to do this, even those North of I-40?
Isn't it a bit early to do this, even those North of I-40?
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It's always good to flush salt Away thru the motor to get the residual salt out of the motor.
Then fog and stabilize like Hogan says. I like SeaFoam and Star Brite Ethanol Treatment.
Then fog and stabilize like Hogan says. I like SeaFoam and Star Brite Ethanol Treatment.
"I'm doing the whole cycle."
You may choose to do all of some subset of these tasks dependent upon your own use of the boat - hours, salt or fresh water, # of years old etc....
You want to do them in this order if you do them at all
- Replace both fuel filters (one on engine and on transom)
- Add fuel stabilizer
- Run engine long enough to distribute stabilizer, maybe the last cruise would be a good time
- Drain and replace the lube oil and filter
- Run engine and flush with clear water or a salt remover
- Fog engine per handbook
- Lower the engine and drain fully
- Pull the prop
- Drain and replace the lower unit lube
- Drain the fuel evap unit
- Grease all pivots and joints
If you have a couple of seasons and/or a few hundred hours in salt water consider these as well....
- Pull and inspect/clean the engine zincs (3 on the 115 I think)
- Pull and inspect/clean the thermostat (may need a gasket here)
- Pull and inspect the raw water diverter valve (may need a gasket here)
At longer service intervals and/or more seasons the list grows a bit more.
You may choose to do all of some subset of these tasks dependent upon your own use of the boat - hours, salt or fresh water, # of years old etc....
You want to do them in this order if you do them at all
- Replace both fuel filters (one on engine and on transom)
- Add fuel stabilizer
- Run engine long enough to distribute stabilizer, maybe the last cruise would be a good time
- Drain and replace the lube oil and filter
- Run engine and flush with clear water or a salt remover
- Fog engine per handbook
- Lower the engine and drain fully
- Pull the prop
- Drain and replace the lower unit lube
- Drain the fuel evap unit
- Grease all pivots and joints
If you have a couple of seasons and/or a few hundred hours in salt water consider these as well....
- Pull and inspect/clean the engine zincs (3 on the 115 I think)
- Pull and inspect/clean the thermostat (may need a gasket here)
- Pull and inspect the raw water diverter valve (may need a gasket here)
At longer service intervals and/or more seasons the list grows a bit more.
"My 90 has 3 fuel filters, and one breather filter."
That makes sense unless you are including the filter at the bottom of the evap unit.
I am not that familiar with the 90 at all only have worked on one of them my friend runs.
The OP was asking about a later model 115/4S.
That makes sense unless you are including the filter at the bottom of the evap unit.
I am not that familiar with the 90 at all only have worked on one of them my friend runs.
The OP was asking about a later model 115/4S.
I have not found that air only will get the water out of the nooks and crannies that water likes to settle.
I like to use the pink stuff, and a small submersible pump in a 5 gallon bucket. I pump the pink stuff in the
flush port, collect the run out in the bucket, and let it circulate while I do the other stuff on the list.
Interestingly, you can catch the initial run out in a smaller container to see how diluted it is, and therefore
how much water was sitting in the engine.
I like to use the pink stuff, and a small submersible pump in a 5 gallon bucket. I pump the pink stuff in the
flush port, collect the run out in the bucket, and let it circulate while I do the other stuff on the list.
Interestingly, you can catch the initial run out in a smaller container to see how diluted it is, and therefore
how much water was sitting in the engine.
"I like to use the pink stuff, and a small submersible pump in a 5 gallon bucket. I pump the pink stuff in the
flush port, collect the run out in the bucket, and let it circulate while I do the other stuff on the list"
Perhaps good for your application - but this method will not reach all the 'areas' in a Yamaha F115.
flush port, collect the run out in the bucket, and let it circulate while I do the other stuff on the list"
Perhaps good for your application - but this method will not reach all the 'areas' in a Yamaha F115.